Trans Am HID Headlight install video
09-12-2018, 10:11 PM
#1
Trans Am HID Headlight install video Hi all,
I made a video detailing my install of Hella 57000 HID headlights. There are others out there but I wanted to really detail the process close up and show a lot of how the headlights are under all the covers. It's about 17 mins long. For those that like a lot of detail before tearing into a project, this should cover a lot.
Hella 57000
Innovited 35w HID with slim ballast and 9005 bulbs
ebay sourced adapater plate
enjoy.
I made a video detailing my install of Hella 57000 HID headlights. There are others out there but I wanted to really detail the process close up and show a lot of how the headlights are under all the covers. It's about 17 mins long. For those that like a lot of detail before tearing into a project, this should cover a lot.
Hella 57000
Innovited 35w HID with slim ballast and 9005 bulbs
ebay sourced adapater plate
enjoy.
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staff23 (09-15-2020)
09-13-2018, 09:10 PM
#2
Copy & Paste Moderator
Nice and thorough 
I'm adding your thread to the Lighting FAQ:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/appearanc...hting-faq.html
Here is some that I've learned from my experience....
Shouldn't have to remove the top headlight frame. I got away with just removing the door lid. To make sure that I mounted them back in the same spot (since the tabs are slotted), I marked around the screw heads with pencil to leave a ring.
The projectors I used are larger so I had to cut off those tabs/protrusions in the back of the headlight bucket and enlarge the hole. As you showed, the smaller projectors you have don't need that.
As for the aftermarket HID bulbs, just like there are right angle and straight 9005/9006 Halogen bulbs, there are also right angle and straight HID 9005/9006 bulbs. Right angle ones may help you there. Most aftermarket HID bulbs use the same connectors. OEM-style HID bulbs are different. My wiring followed the path of the stock wiring so I didn't have to grind/modify to make that fit like you did. I have right angle H9 bulbs on my projectors (my larger projectors use H9 bulbs). The holes you added to the bulb bases can let water in.
If you need more space/depth behind the headlights, see if the projectors will fit in front of the bracket (instead of behind) and still clear opening and closing the headlights (test that manually using the manual **** on the top of the motor). I don't know if that will fit that way, but it may be something to try.
As for naming, the larger brick is a ballast and the smaller brick is an igniter. Older non-slim ballasts had the igniter built-in.
Instead of making a bracket to mount my ballasts, I mounted them with automotive velcro to the top flat spot of the front frame "horns" under the headlights (the part of the frame protruding from under where you mounted your bracket)..
I also made a upgraded wire harness to insure no issues with turning on the lights.
Here is my thread:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/appearanc...enty-pics.html
I'm adding your thread to the Lighting FAQ:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/appearanc...hting-faq.html
Here is some that I've learned from my experience....
Shouldn't have to remove the top headlight frame. I got away with just removing the door lid. To make sure that I mounted them back in the same spot (since the tabs are slotted), I marked around the screw heads with pencil to leave a ring.
The projectors I used are larger so I had to cut off those tabs/protrusions in the back of the headlight bucket and enlarge the hole. As you showed, the smaller projectors you have don't need that.
As for the aftermarket HID bulbs, just like there are right angle and straight 9005/9006 Halogen bulbs, there are also right angle and straight HID 9005/9006 bulbs. Right angle ones may help you there. Most aftermarket HID bulbs use the same connectors. OEM-style HID bulbs are different. My wiring followed the path of the stock wiring so I didn't have to grind/modify to make that fit like you did. I have right angle H9 bulbs on my projectors (my larger projectors use H9 bulbs). The holes you added to the bulb bases can let water in.
If you need more space/depth behind the headlights, see if the projectors will fit in front of the bracket (instead of behind) and still clear opening and closing the headlights (test that manually using the manual **** on the top of the motor). I don't know if that will fit that way, but it may be something to try.
As for naming, the larger brick is a ballast and the smaller brick is an igniter. Older non-slim ballasts had the igniter built-in.
Instead of making a bracket to mount my ballasts, I mounted them with automotive velcro to the top flat spot of the front frame "horns" under the headlights (the part of the frame protruding from under where you mounted your bracket)..
I also made a upgraded wire harness to insure no issues with turning on the lights.
Here is my thread:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/appearanc...enty-pics.html
Last edited by VIP1; 09-13-2018 at 09:49 PM.
09-20-2018, 06:48 PM
#3
Thanks!
I got pretty good at putting the frame and skin back on the car - my passenger side light was all out of whack since the first owner must have hit it a little, and whoever replaced it put washers in all the wrong places. So, I had to replace the frame with a straight one, removed washers, and then my headlight actually went up and down without touching (like it had been for years) with a little adjustment of the whole assembly.
The small holes I recommended drilling on the flange are on the very outside edge of the flange -definitely not too close to the gasket to actually leak in. But yeah the flange has one more place for water to seep and get close. But with the straight style bulbs, I could not turn them to lock them in far enough without feeling like I was going to break them. The extra leverage from the pliers made it super easy to lock them in 100%.
I gotta admit, man I really really like these headlights now. I had no worries about a night drive last week, visibility is improved 500%. Turning on my PIAA 55w driving lights doesn't add a lot to the brightness now; before those totally overpowered the stock headlights and I loved them but they blinded all oncoming traffic, I would get flashed at a lot.
I just took a look at your thread. I know before I started I had looked at it a little. Very thorough sir, much respect to you for a nice complete job and write up! I had first seen those older style Hella housings at an ALMS race at Road Atlanta, I found out what they were and said to myself "man those would be fantastic but probably don't fit the TA".
I got pretty good at putting the frame and skin back on the car - my passenger side light was all out of whack since the first owner must have hit it a little, and whoever replaced it put washers in all the wrong places. So, I had to replace the frame with a straight one, removed washers, and then my headlight actually went up and down without touching (like it had been for years) with a little adjustment of the whole assembly.
The small holes I recommended drilling on the flange are on the very outside edge of the flange -definitely not too close to the gasket to actually leak in. But yeah the flange has one more place for water to seep and get close. But with the straight style bulbs, I could not turn them to lock them in far enough without feeling like I was going to break them. The extra leverage from the pliers made it super easy to lock them in 100%.
I gotta admit, man I really really like these headlights now. I had no worries about a night drive last week, visibility is improved 500%. Turning on my PIAA 55w driving lights doesn't add a lot to the brightness now; before those totally overpowered the stock headlights and I loved them but they blinded all oncoming traffic, I would get flashed at a lot.
I just took a look at your thread. I know before I started I had looked at it a little. Very thorough sir, much respect to you for a nice complete job and write up! I had first seen those older style Hella housings at an ALMS race at Road Atlanta, I found out what they were and said to myself "man those would be fantastic but probably don't fit the TA".
09-21-2018, 01:04 AM
#4
Copy & Paste Moderator
I have a pair of OEM G37 Sedan D2S HID projectors sitting in box. I need to build a housing to contain them though since they are open body and not sealed.
Last edited by VIP1; 09-21-2018 at 01:11 AM.