TheInfamouSS1LE

I own a 2014 Camaro SS and I am trying to set my 2 step up with a momentary button so that after I leave the line the 2-step will not come on until i press the momentary button again. I also decided to loop my momentary button to the 2 step 12 v wire so I would not have to hold the momentary button down the whole time and the circuit would close when the clutch reaches the top and opens the circuit again.

I am using an msd 2-step 8733 on my car. I would be using a momentary button for the positive and my clutch pedal switch would be connected to the ground (since it already is now).

This is the diagram I have drawn up thanks to the many things I found on here and other forums that really have helped me out. Mostly here since I found a post with each pin laid out perfectly. That one was a true gem. Even though I lost it at least I wrote it down.


My main question is about the fuses.

1) What would be the correct in-line fuse that I should be running from pin 30 to the battery would I be putting a 30 amp fuse in there? I have seen some people say 15 or 20, it's pretty much all over the place. If so, the Bosch Style Relay I saw with the wiring harness had 14 gauge wires. The in-line fuse holder that I saw with 14 gauge wire says that it can handle up to a 30 amp fuse should I trust that or should I just unpin it and run a thicker gauge wire to it? I know most people suggest not running more than around 15 amps with a 14 gauge wire.

2) I know to run the fuse from the 12 v source to the button that I'm using. I am going to be using a 12v LED Button. It has 4.5 amp rating so im going to put a 5 amp inline fuse from the 12 v power to the Momentary Button. For the Momentary button I would be using NO that way the circuit is close when it is pressed in.

3) For the clutch pedal switch, since the switch is at the top of the travel and the top of the clutch is always resting on it I would be using a SPDT Long Lever Micro Switch (much like a Wot switch) so that I can hook the ground leading to Pin 85 to the NC position that way since the button is always pressed (open) when i push the clutch in it would then close the circuit. (I think I am on the right track here right guys)

How does this diagram look to you and am I on the right path here with getting my SPDT relay setup for my 2-Step. I am tired of it sometimes activating during WOT shifts or if I gently have my foot against the pedal a little too much for the switches likings. I learned this has cured a lot of the random misfires and other problems a lot of m6 guys had with the 2 step and luckily I have been surfing ls1tech a lot more now because you can't learn anything on camaro5 unless you want to know what the best headers, intakes, and cams are everyday (which then everyone says the one they have anyway of course).

I just want to make sure this will work as I think it will work so I can hold the momentary switch, push in the clutch (let go of monetary switch since it is latched to pin 87) and then just let her go from there and not have to worry about it coming back on until I get back up to the line again. And also the fuse question thats the other most important one i need to know.

​​​​​​​Thanks in advance!!!

Kriptic

iTrader: (1)

Not on the your setup just because i don't know about it, so i won't throw darts. As far as fuses go. Its not only the wire that will dictate the max fuse you should use, its what you'll be protecting. Just because the relay has a 30 max amp on it, doesn't mean you want to a 30 amp in line. You want to the fuse to protect the other side incase something happens. If your only drawing 12 amps and throw a 25 or 30 in it, that fuse does absolutely nothing and you'll fry the other side or possibly burn the wire. I've seen it happen in car audio many times and even in electrical panels. If you can find out what the draw is, you'll be able to match the fuse for it.

14 gauge is typically a 15 max fuse, you also need to protect the wire. Over fusing causes bad issues. Sorry couldn't be more help.

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

Sorry, that's not quite accurate. Fuses are designed to protect wiring. They are not designed to protect whatever electrical device is in the circuit. The reason is that electrical current is not pushed through a circuit, it's drawn from the circuit by the load (the device). The fuse is designed to protect the wiring from a situation where something goes wrong with either the device or a short in the wire that cause too much current to flow which in turn causes the wire to heat up and potentially cause a fire. Other than a case where the wire insulation gets worn off causing a short, the device is usually the cause of any over-current situation. You want to size the fuse based on the wire size (gauge) and the length of the wire (because resistance increases with length).

The fuse should be small enough to blow before the over-current condition can cause the wire to heat up. Ideally, you want the fuse to be the smallest possible that will still handle the demands of the device. So if your two step draws 4 amps, use a 5-amp fuse. If it draws only 2 amps then use a 3-amp fuse. The 4.5-amp rating of the switch is the maximum current it can handle. Don't base your fuse selection on that maximum... since the switch will only be triggering the relay coil, a 1-amp fuse is probably sufficient.

TheInfamouSS1LE

Guess I'm going to have to wait to get the car back. Hard trying to find someone that has posted the draw of a 2 step unfortunately. Lol. Was trying to get everything ready for when she got back from getting the little winter build done.

Thanks a lot. Definitely pointing me in the right direction. I guess the only thing I have to do is figure out what the draw of my 2 step is whenever I get the car back because I can't find it anywhere for the life of me.

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

There is no need to worry about the current draw on the line. Everything except the trigger is plug-and-play and the trigger wire is a voltage sensor which doesn't draw any significant current (less than one amp). The only other thing that needs to be fused is your relay/switch combination and that's only for the coil side of the relay which draws less than one amp (typically 0.15 amps).

TheInfamouSS1LE

Thank you so much for your help. 2 Step is already wired up but it was just straight to a clutch pedal switch (N/C it's at the top of the pedal travel- 5th gen camaro) and I was having a lot of the cutting out problems I saw a bunch of F Body guys were having. Luckily I'm not afraid to wire, but this was a learning experience for me to even get to this point. Mostly because I want to understand what I'm doing and how it works at the same time, not just doing it because that's the way they say to do it.

I have never done anything with relays or anything of the sort before so I learned everything about every type of relay I could. I definitely wasn't going to go the cookie cutter 5th gen way and buy 2 more devices at almost $400 to acheive the same thing a 5 pin relay and a momentary button can do in my case. Thanks for helping point me in the right direction so I can finally put the schematics of this whole thing to rest. And now everything I do going forward will actually make sense because I know WHY and not just WHAT which is information I can now take with me into the future and can use for a variety of different things.

Much appreciated again!