BIG 3 upgrade / 200 amp alternator
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BIG 3 upgrade / 200 amp alternator
BIG 3 =
Alternator to battery positive
Engine to chassis ground
Battery - to chassis ground
Stock 105amp vs 200amp {tested output sheet reads 220.4amps }
Some comparison shots
Factory alternator power lead vs 7/16'' Craftsman wrench
Factory vs Kicker 4 gauge {Note : this would be a good upgrade on a smaller amp alternator stock 105amp / 130amp / 160amp etc .}
1/0 gauge vs 4 gauge vs stock
I went ahead and bought 20' of red for power leads / 4' black for grounds of Knukoncepts Fleks 1/0 gauge since I am using a higher amperage alternator .
Also bought [7] 1/0 gauge ring terminals { used 2 from alternator to battery , 2 for engine to chassis ground , 2 for battery - to chassis ground . I used the other one to go to my amps . }
1/0 gauge vs Kicker 4 gauge
Wire count inside insulation , crappy pic but you can see the difference ,
1/0 gauge vs stock alternator power lead
Alternator to battery positive
Engine to chassis ground
Battery - to chassis ground
Stock 105amp vs 200amp {tested output sheet reads 220.4amps }
Some comparison shots
Factory alternator power lead vs 7/16'' Craftsman wrench
Factory vs Kicker 4 gauge {Note : this would be a good upgrade on a smaller amp alternator stock 105amp / 130amp / 160amp etc .}
1/0 gauge vs 4 gauge vs stock
I went ahead and bought 20' of red for power leads / 4' black for grounds of Knukoncepts Fleks 1/0 gauge since I am using a higher amperage alternator .
Also bought [7] 1/0 gauge ring terminals { used 2 from alternator to battery , 2 for engine to chassis ground , 2 for battery - to chassis ground . I used the other one to go to my amps . }
1/0 gauge vs Kicker 4 gauge
Wire count inside insulation , crappy pic but you can see the difference ,
1/0 gauge vs stock alternator power lead
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Alright , heres some install shots , didnt have access to the camera during installation but I did try my best to capture a few and the end result .
Started by removing the old alternator , be carefull not to rip out the small wire going to it like I did . All's well though as I bought a new terminal with what looks to be a little better gauge wire . No pics of removal but here is a nice removal guide I found from WhiteBird00 ..
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable
2. Remove the accessory drive belt
3. Raise the vehicle
4. Remove the positive cable from the alternator by sliding the boot back and removing the nut.
5. Remove the alternator rear bracket
6. Remove the transmission oil cooler lines from the oil cooler clip.
7. Remove the front alternator mounting bolts and oil cooler clip.
8. Disconnect the alternator electrical connector
9. Remove the alternator
The larger replacement alternator will not use the rear mounting bracket or the cooling duct that was on the original.
Next to come since I had more free room to work was the Engine to Chassis ground . The stock ground is very small , I just left it inplace and run another one . I went off the factory engine mount stud and found a nut to fit it . Its a small fine thread nut .
Bolted to the Chassis I found the factory ABS mount to have a bolt in the right place so I removed it . Had to slightly wallow out my ring terminal end to get the bolt through .
I run the ground away from the header tube and the steering linkage , also left some slack for engine movement .
Engine to Chassis ground upgrade complete
Next I installed the new alternator , run the power lead . Used the factory mounting holders . Here is some shots from the alternator to battery positive .
Alternator to Battery power lead upgrade complete
Next was the Battery negative to body/chassis ground , self explanitory .
Battery Negative to Body/Chassis ground upgrade complete
Now with the extra 14.5' of power wire left and the extra 1/0 gauge ring terminal I wanted to upgrade to my amps . Went from dual 4 gauge { each one runs to its own amp } to a single 1/0 gauge .
The small 4 channel amp was fine with 4 gauge at only 300watts rms or so , but the sub amp I was pushing it with that long of a run running over 1,000 watts rms through a single 4 gauge power lead .
I also like how it cleaned up the under hood look .
Before
After
Amps input won't accept a 1/0 gauge so I boought a 1/0gauge input / dual 4 gauge output fused distribution block . Have less than 2' of 4 gauge now going to the sub amp instead of 13' which should make a slight difference .
Got it from Knukonceptz , its there Konfused block , has 2 100 amp mini ANL fuses , small 4 channel has built into it 2 20amp blade fuses .
Well before the upgrades with the car running the voltage would drop into the 12's and stay there until I turned the volume back down . Obviously if the voltage is dropping I wasn't getting the full output from the sub amp to the sub .
Now after the upgrades the voltage only has dropped to 13.9volts playing it full tilt . Made a big difference in the way it hits also . That was with the car idling .
So there it is , the BIG 3 upgrade on a '2000 F -body . If you were to do the same I think you could order about 6' of power wire / 3' of ground wire .
Out of the 24' I had about 3-4' left over .
Started by removing the old alternator , be carefull not to rip out the small wire going to it like I did . All's well though as I bought a new terminal with what looks to be a little better gauge wire . No pics of removal but here is a nice removal guide I found from WhiteBird00 ..
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable
2. Remove the accessory drive belt
3. Raise the vehicle
4. Remove the positive cable from the alternator by sliding the boot back and removing the nut.
5. Remove the alternator rear bracket
6. Remove the transmission oil cooler lines from the oil cooler clip.
7. Remove the front alternator mounting bolts and oil cooler clip.
8. Disconnect the alternator electrical connector
9. Remove the alternator
The larger replacement alternator will not use the rear mounting bracket or the cooling duct that was on the original.
Next to come since I had more free room to work was the Engine to Chassis ground . The stock ground is very small , I just left it inplace and run another one . I went off the factory engine mount stud and found a nut to fit it . Its a small fine thread nut .
Bolted to the Chassis I found the factory ABS mount to have a bolt in the right place so I removed it . Had to slightly wallow out my ring terminal end to get the bolt through .
I run the ground away from the header tube and the steering linkage , also left some slack for engine movement .
Engine to Chassis ground upgrade complete
Next I installed the new alternator , run the power lead . Used the factory mounting holders . Here is some shots from the alternator to battery positive .
Alternator to Battery power lead upgrade complete
Next was the Battery negative to body/chassis ground , self explanitory .
Battery Negative to Body/Chassis ground upgrade complete
Now with the extra 14.5' of power wire left and the extra 1/0 gauge ring terminal I wanted to upgrade to my amps . Went from dual 4 gauge { each one runs to its own amp } to a single 1/0 gauge .
The small 4 channel amp was fine with 4 gauge at only 300watts rms or so , but the sub amp I was pushing it with that long of a run running over 1,000 watts rms through a single 4 gauge power lead .
I also like how it cleaned up the under hood look .
Before
After
Amps input won't accept a 1/0 gauge so I boought a 1/0gauge input / dual 4 gauge output fused distribution block . Have less than 2' of 4 gauge now going to the sub amp instead of 13' which should make a slight difference .
Got it from Knukonceptz , its there Konfused block , has 2 100 amp mini ANL fuses , small 4 channel has built into it 2 20amp blade fuses .
Well before the upgrades with the car running the voltage would drop into the 12's and stay there until I turned the volume back down . Obviously if the voltage is dropping I wasn't getting the full output from the sub amp to the sub .
Now after the upgrades the voltage only has dropped to 13.9volts playing it full tilt . Made a big difference in the way it hits also . That was with the car idling .
So there it is , the BIG 3 upgrade on a '2000 F -body . If you were to do the same I think you could order about 6' of power wire / 3' of ground wire .
Out of the 24' I had about 3-4' left over .
Last edited by cws T/A; 03-16-2008 at 03:51 PM.
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Stock it doesn't have one , so I didn't see the need for one .
I was going to put one in though , have 2 extra Kicker ANL fuse holders , 2 100amps / 60amp fuses . Factory is 50amp fuse at the distribution block . Once I seen the factory didnt use one I just went with it , no smoke yet .
I was going to put one in though , have 2 extra Kicker ANL fuse holders , 2 100amps / 60amp fuses . Factory is 50amp fuse at the distribution block . Once I seen the factory didnt use one I just went with it , no smoke yet .
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Nice this is something I'd like to do eventually. Probably when I put in a new motor to have a better electrical system for the high performance engine. I guess you wouldn't really need it now, but are you running a capacitor?
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#11
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I always wanted to do the big three in my Honda but never did. Still running the stock alternator too which amazes me considering it is 70 Amps and I run the following:
MB Quart QAA1000... 1000 Watt 4-channel to CDT M-6's, 5.25's, tweets and Focal 6x9's.
Hifonics 2006D... 2000 Watt Mono D to two FI-Q 12" subs.
That's 3000 watts and all I have is a Stinger cap and a Kinetics 1400 series battery. The battery was well worth it. I am amazed that nothing has happened and it actually will flex the roof
MB Quart QAA1000... 1000 Watt 4-channel to CDT M-6's, 5.25's, tweets and Focal 6x9's.
Hifonics 2006D... 2000 Watt Mono D to two FI-Q 12" subs.
That's 3000 watts and all I have is a Stinger cap and a Kinetics 1400 series battery. The battery was well worth it. I am amazed that nothing has happened and it actually will flex the roof
#12
TECH Enthusiast
how do you like that wire? i used the same thing in my firebird. i was very happy with it and it is so easy to work with it at the size that is it. cant beat it for the price either.
#13
that's a sweet install. Now you need a kickass battery, you could even relocate it to the trunk now that you already have the 1/0 cable run back there.
Actually, you could leave your stock battery under the hood and just add a small suplemental battery to the trunk.
Don't do any capacitors, they are a waste of money.
Actually, you could leave your stock battery under the hood and just add a small suplemental battery to the trunk.
Don't do any capacitors, they are a waste of money.
#15
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I've done the big 3 on three of my vehicles and seen before and after on half a dozen more. Only one did it not make a dramatic difference. It's JUST as important as the battery. Battery is a source/storage - the BIG 3 upgrades the entire circuit. Only as good as the weakest link kinda thing...