Window Regulator
03-19-2008, 09:40 AM
#1
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Window Regulator I posted this in the texas area but am not having much luck.
I bought a 98 Z28 A4 for 600 bucks in an auction. the thing runs and drives so i was going to make a racecar out of it since i have very little to lose.
well, the pass. window regulator has come off the door and Im looking at paying someone to either help me or show me how to replace it.
any help would be greatly appreciated
I bought a 98 Z28 A4 for 600 bucks in an auction. the thing runs and drives so i was going to make a racecar out of it since i have very little to lose.
well, the pass. window regulator has come off the door and Im looking at paying someone to either help me or show me how to replace it.
any help would be greatly appreciated
03-19-2008, 06:40 PM
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Hey bud,
I tried to search a few posts for ya regarding this and most deal only with the window motor. I just replaced my motor a few days ago. I know the regulator acts as a "scissor" to move the window up and down. I know I'm not much help but I posted a link to a site that has a good write up on the motor however this person has good pics of the "guts" of the door if any of them help. In my 02' LS1, I know there is a track that runs horizontally the length of the door with two wheels attached to the regulator that ride that track. If you're gonna go with using it as a race car, just tinker with it a bit, you'll probably figure out how it goes after messin around a bit. Sorry, it wasnt much help.
http://shbox.com/page/windowmotor.html
I tried to search a few posts for ya regarding this and most deal only with the window motor. I just replaced my motor a few days ago. I know the regulator acts as a "scissor" to move the window up and down. I know I'm not much help but I posted a link to a site that has a good write up on the motor however this person has good pics of the "guts" of the door if any of them help. In my 02' LS1, I know there is a track that runs horizontally the length of the door with two wheels attached to the regulator that ride that track. If you're gonna go with using it as a race car, just tinker with it a bit, you'll probably figure out how it goes after messin around a bit. Sorry, it wasnt much help.
http://shbox.com/page/windowmotor.html
03-20-2008, 07:34 AM
#3
You said it came off? Do you know if bolts were holding it in? Did it tear the holes out of the door panel? Do you have the old regulator? If so, is there a problem with it?
I replaced my regulators and motors with an aftermarket system and they perform much better than the OEM units. And... they are a lot less expensive than replacing the regulators with GM parts.
I replaced my regulators and motors with an aftermarket system and they perform much better than the OEM units. And... they are a lot less expensive than replacing the regulators with GM parts.
03-20-2008, 09:36 PM
#6
Go to http://electric-life.com/ and search for "GM70-K". I got mine from Summit for $250 (set of 2) but it looks like everyone is selling them these days. Having new rollers on the regulators makes a big difference - but even still, they perform much better than my windows did when the car was delivered from the factory.
If I were to do it all over again, I'd definitely install the window motor relay kits you'll see people talk about on this site. My observations over the years are in line with a power drop in the doors but I didn't know about the kits at the time of my install last year. So, I'm worried that these motors will burn out, as well; but so far - so good.
The kit above is primarily intended to replace manual regulators, but they went in my car like a charm. For attachment, they use a combination of some the old regulator rivet holes and some of the other virgin holes in the door. The reg also has nuts welded to the plate so it goes in with bolts easier than the stock units.
The replacement units use a different type of electrical connector, so you'll have to splice in a pigtail they come with. I used a wire tap to attach the new pigtail so I could also retain the old connector. You'll also need to experiment with the wires before you make the final splice to make sure you have the right polarity on the connection. (So the up button makes the window go up and not down, etc.)
Aside from the kit, you'll need wire splicing materials and bolts to attach the regulator to the door. (I used some washer-head bolts that I picked up from the auto parts store, which worked really well.) Anti-vibration washers or thread locker should also be used to make sure the bolts don't vibrate out.
If you've never removed the original regulators, you'll want to make sure you use a center punch to mark the center of the OEM rivets and use a high quality drill bit to drill them out. The rivet is a compound unit, with a steel mandrel/core and an aluminum rivet/jacket. If you don't have the drill bit exactly centered on the steel pin, you'll tear up the holes in the door.
If I were to do it all over again, I'd definitely install the window motor relay kits you'll see people talk about on this site. My observations over the years are in line with a power drop in the doors but I didn't know about the kits at the time of my install last year. So, I'm worried that these motors will burn out, as well; but so far - so good.
The kit above is primarily intended to replace manual regulators, but they went in my car like a charm. For attachment, they use a combination of some the old regulator rivet holes and some of the other virgin holes in the door. The reg also has nuts welded to the plate so it goes in with bolts easier than the stock units.
The replacement units use a different type of electrical connector, so you'll have to splice in a pigtail they come with. I used a wire tap to attach the new pigtail so I could also retain the old connector. You'll also need to experiment with the wires before you make the final splice to make sure you have the right polarity on the connection. (So the up button makes the window go up and not down, etc.)
Aside from the kit, you'll need wire splicing materials and bolts to attach the regulator to the door. (I used some washer-head bolts that I picked up from the auto parts store, which worked really well.) Anti-vibration washers or thread locker should also be used to make sure the bolts don't vibrate out.
If you've never removed the original regulators, you'll want to make sure you use a center punch to mark the center of the OEM rivets and use a high quality drill bit to drill them out. The rivet is a compound unit, with a steel mandrel/core and an aluminum rivet/jacket. If you don't have the drill bit exactly centered on the steel pin, you'll tear up the holes in the door.
03-20-2008, 09:41 PM
#7
I haven't previously shared my experience with this kit because I wanted to put some more miles on it first. Now that its gone through a couple of cross-country road trips and a cold winter, I'm building a lot of confidence in it! So far, its like window Viagra. Goes up every time - real fast.
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03-21-2008, 01:26 PM
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the motor and regulator are still together, just the bolts have i guess pulled through the fiberglass. ive never messed with windows before so im at a complete loss but the info you gave me so far is really helping.
due to the fact that im building a racecar out of this one im wondering if i can just rig it to always stay up
due to the fact that im building a racecar out of this one im wondering if i can just rig it to always stay up
03-21-2008, 07:41 PM
#9
Sounds to me like someone replaced the motor before and used bolts with heads that were too small. Do you still see the bolts/nuts on attached to the regulator? If the bolts were adequate and actually tore the door, I would think the panel would look like it was shattered.
The OEM regulators came riveted to the door and when you drill them out, the holes tend to be enlarged. Your solution may be to just adopt some better bolts. If you go with a "washer head bolt" (you can find them in auto parts stores) and some tread locker, I would think you'd be good.
If you can just re-bolt the thing to the door, it will be whole lot easier than trying to fix the panel. You could probably weld the regulator arms to the metal crash bar in the door, but I would think that would compromise the integrity of the bar. (not a save thing for a race car?)
The OEM regulators came riveted to the door and when you drill them out, the holes tend to be enlarged. Your solution may be to just adopt some better bolts. If you go with a "washer head bolt" (you can find them in auto parts stores) and some tread locker, I would think you'd be good.
If you can just re-bolt the thing to the door, it will be whole lot easier than trying to fix the panel. You could probably weld the regulator arms to the metal crash bar in the door, but I would think that would compromise the integrity of the bar. (not a save thing for a race car?)
03-25-2008, 09:55 AM
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well after all this time ive finally just decided to go with lexan windows and stay away from the whole problem. its only a race car anyways
I appreciate the advice and look forward to having more questions answered later on
I appreciate the advice and look forward to having more questions answered later on