My friend has the exact same car, except his is black.
It's not a bad car. It's decently quick, but certainly isn't gonna hang w/ a modified car, unless it is also modded. He kept up w/ a '93 LX w/ crappy full exhaust for the most part. He lost by about 1.5-2 cars. They shut down at about 100. I dusted that same LX w/ my '91 Z. Idk...but I think there was something wrong with that Fox.

All around, it is a decent DD, but they're nothing special. My friend seems to like his. He is lowering it, getting a CAI and putting wheels on it this Spring. Should look sharp, but no match for my bolt on LS1!

 

That car you showed a pic of was a 3000GT SL. The FWD N/A model. I own one and its sitting in my driveway being parted out from my timing belt jumping and trans going. If you jumped/snapped the timing belt you are screwed, 99% chance you bent a valve, it is NOT a minor repair. The cars are notorious for timing belts and transmissions. The cars lightly modded can run high 14's/low 15's at the track. I personally ran a 15.0 @ 94MPH in mine with just a downpipe and test pipe, never got a chance to run it with my cat-back though, I ran it on shitty tires too, I probably could of managed it into high 14's if I tried harder. I thought it was VERY fun to drive, I loved and still love these cars, I was going to buy a 96 VR4 over my Trans-Am.

 

I'm a previous owner of a Mits 3000 GT. They are heavy and slow. The twin turboed cars are even heavier. Unless the car is heavily modified, it ain't ****!!!


I bought mine with valve damage but didn't know what it was until later after my water pump locked up on me at a light against a mustang. It would hit about 6200 RPM and fall on its face like it hit the rev limiter. Even after top end work and planed heads, it still didn't come close to the Camaro's or WS6's.

Don't get me wrong, very fun to drive!!! Could drive the hell out of mine. Power sliding around corners and 3rd gear scratches. But I upgraded to a WS6 for obvious reasons.

 

i have a 98 SL and i like it. its my DD and i think its pretty quick even after driving my z28. Im happy with it other than it being FWD. I would be confident in racing a v6 fbody/mustang, 90's gt mustang, or whatever. i would say its quicker than teh average v6 car. not brand new car but maybe a little older.

 

Geeez people, AWD has nothing to do with being fast/slow from a roll. My car is AWD but is pretty nasty on a roll. I guarantee you if one raced a well modified AWD car on a roll you would be seeing nothing but tail-lights. There's plenty of proof on you-tube. This 'AWD sucks on a roll' stuff is a total myth.

 

I have a bolt on v6 fbody that runs 15.3s. . I don't see your SL doing that sorry lol

 

Those things are as heavy as battleships. Thats why they are always breaking trannys. They were just ok in the day no more. VR4's that are modded and running well are like hens teeth. POS

 

oh man danny sounds like you may have alot more to deal with then just a belt...don't let your buddy see this thread and just replace the belt lol!

 

WHOA WHOA WHOA there buddy, i realize AWHP and RWHP doesnt make any difference, its how much horse thats getting to the ground, i ment to simply state that a simliar Fly wheel horse power AWD car will lose to a similiar RWD vehicle because it has a higher percentage drivetrain loss. dont get me wrong i'd love a AWD car, but a 300 fly wheel horse power AWD car will most definitely lose to a 300 fly wheel horse power RWD car just because it loses about 5-10% more power to the ground depending on if the RWD is auto or Manual.

maybe i came across wrong, but i was only stating that AWD cars are much more at home in the twisties and or dig races, not rolls.

 

lol, Its cool bro! The dealership new about the timing belt because they had done some work on it but forgot to replace the old timing belt with a new one... Besides my friends smart! If the engines jacked due to the timing belt then the dealership is responsible since they admitted to forgeting to replace it when they were working on it! Besides I've been driving a VERY LONG TIME and I dont drive friends cars the same way that I would drive mine.... In other words I was babing it and NEVER allowed it to get above 5000rpm and actually never got it above 45! What I will do is have my friend make sure to have the dealership check the valves to make sure that they didnt cause him to **** the engine up by them not replacing the belts!!! I didnt know that the timing belt could cause that?? Im glad I posted on here otherwise he could be driving a lemon!!! Thanks you'll...

 

I see in your sig you hit 104MPH in the 1/8th, ever hit a 1/4 mile track? Seems like you should trap 130+ and I wonder what it does.

 

Lol thank god you're not stuck with the bill if there's gonna be one man.

 

+5!!!! I'd tell him he can have my old car once I get my V!!!

 

The sebring convertable!? that thing is probably faster than the 3000 hahahaha

 

lol, only because I got a midget pushin from behind and you puttin a slab of concrete chained to his bumper....

 

For some reason I get the feeling that dealer isn't going to replace the motor you just messed up lol. Matter of fact I'm not sure why he would drive the car away after they told him they "forgot" to replace a timing belt.

 

the n/a versions are fwds, **** i always thought the non-vr4 models were rwd. we used to smoke those things wit v6 mustangs in high school.

 

I just got done talkin with my friend! He said no damage to the valves and that they are new and that the timing belt was just frayed.... And the dealer didnt tell him about the timing belt because they forgot to change it.... It didnt come up until it started making noice and he brought it back!

 

I respectfully disagree. A 400HP AWD DSM can beat a 400HP TA on a roll. Power is not everything. Gearing, weight of the cars, aerodynamics have a much bigger effect than that miniscule drivetrain loss which is overblown by most people. The additional HP lost to drive another axle is very minimal to make a big effect. I have seen a 500-550AWHP DSM lose only 10whp when dyno'd from a AWD dyno to a FWD one. 10whp on a 550whp car is not much. That's just an example I have seen.



I have run in the 1/4 but not had a perfect pass yet. Very frustrating. When I did 104 in the 1/8th I mis-shifted from 3rd-2nd at the 1/8th or thereabout and coasted down to a 12.5 @ 90mph. The car had gone 11.6@128mph with me trapping 93mph in the 1/8th on the pass before that so I don't really know what it would trap in the 1/4 on a perfectly driven pass with no shifting issues. Coulda-shoulda right? Stock tranny doesn't shift too well when banging gears. 130+ would be my guess but I hate bench racing. I will find out soon.

To stay on topic, the NA 3000GTs are very slow. The Stealth ES which is a little lighter can do about 15.2 in the 1/4 driven well. It's a 220BHP car. Really...that was not bad for a NA 3.0L V6 car in 1990 and 1991. They are not complex to work on. You just need to know someone who has worked with an interference type engine like the 6G72 or 4G63 LOL. Much easier to work on than say an MR2 or Nissan Z32 ( 90's 300ZX) haha.

 

we dont stay on topic here man, get it straight!

and i highlighted the key word in your response.

and a moped can also beat a nitrous TA, but everything else being equal an AWD car will lose to a FWD or RWD car from a roll was my point. you can defend your car to the bitter end, **** i would too, but fact of the matter is, if there was an exact duplicate of your car, only difference being it was FWD, it would beat you from a roll plain and simple.