Street Racing & Kill Stories Basic Technical Questions & Advice

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Old Jan 15, 2004 | 09:50 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Skarecrow
It might sound blasphemous, but I want to keep the car relativly tame (at least tame under normal driving conditions) for the time being. I don't want an overpowering note exhaust yet, nor do I want any driveability issues to crop up. After driving the mustang, which was noisy and unrefined, I really like having all this power with full factory refinement. I may do simple stuff like get a lid, open up the bottom of the airbox (and other free mods), and so on...
There are TONS of mods you can do that will make your car much faster without changing the drivability or sound much. When I first purchased my car, that is exactly what I wanted, a sleeper that was my daily driver, that nobody would know was anything but stock, but would whoop some ***. Got a nice quiet cat back and a set of MAC headers with cats ... did all the intake stuff, clutch, a bunch of other random ****, car sounded almost dead stock. Then I put in a 220/220 114 cam, LS6 intake, and a host of other **** .... still sounded almost dead stock.

Then I got tired of that, and wanted LOUD OBNOXIOUS POWERRRRR. Now for the past year I have been going crazy making my car loud and annoying, and going for pure power. I am on my second cam now, and plan on throwing in a bigger one in a month or two. The MACs are also getting thrown out and some nice LT's with off-road Y's are going on there.

I'm curious if dropping a z06 cam (or something similar to it) and getting the computer re-turned would jump me up about 20-30 rwhp (or more) while still leaving the car with a "factory" feel... I'm also curious if leaving the factory mufflers/exhust on would make getting LTs + high flow cats kinda pointless. I am not sure where the big restrictions are in the exhaust system.
To answer your questions ...

a) I would stay away from the LS6 cam, there are a ton of cams out there that will make more power and keep you just as drivable.
TR 220/220 114
MTI B1 221/221 114
TR Stealth Cam (I believe TSP has one also)
Comp 216/220 114
and there are 2 Lingenfelter cams that make a ton of power and retain a pretty stock idle also.

b) Get LT's, Carsound cats (flow the best) and a quiet cat back system, I know SLP sells one (i know, slp = eh), and I believe TR sells one too. You can even keep your stock tips if you really want to keep it stock looking.

c) LS1edit tuning = great. Most dead stock cars will pick up between 10-20rwhp from a good tune alone ... with aftermarket stuff on there you can pick up some significant Hp from a tune.
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Old Jan 15, 2004 | 09:55 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Skarecrow
It might sound blasphemous, but I want to keep the car relativly tame (at least tame under normal driving conditions) for the time being. I don't want an overpowering note exhaust yet, nor do I want any driveability issues to crop up. After driving the mustang, which was noisy and unrefined, I really like having all this power with full factory refinement. I may do simple stuff like get a lid, open up the bottom of the airbox (and other free mods), and so on...

I'm curious if dropping a z06 cam (or something similar to it) and getting the computer re-turned would jump me up about 20-30 rwhp (or more) while still leaving the car with a "factory" feel... I'm also curious if leaving the factory mufflers/exhust on would make getting LTs + high flow cats kinda pointless. I am not sure where the big restrictions are in the exhaust system.
To answer your questions ...

a) I would stay away from the LS6 cam, there are a ton of cams out there that will make more power and keep you just as drivable.
TR 220/220 114
MTI B1 221/221 114
TR Stealth Cam (I believe TSP has one also)
Comp 216/220 114
and there are 2 Lingenfelter cams that make a ton of power and retain a pretty stock idle also.

b) Get LT's, Carsound cats (flow the best) and a quiet cat back system, I know SLP sells one (i know, slp = eh), and I believe TR sells one too. You can even keep your stock tips if you really want to keep it stock looking.

c) LS1edit tuning = great. Most dead stock cars will pick up between 10-20rwhp from a good tune alone ... with aftermarket stuff on there you can pick up some significant Hp from a tune.

d) Also, the BEST way to add some sneaky HP is definately to juice it. Nobody can tell it is there until you're flying past them with ease .... I'd say it is one of the best inventions ever. hehe


Oh, and about the F-bird .... it was definately a 6cyl .... the formula's have basically the same car as you but it is alittle lighter .... so even a dead stock one should've kept up with you car better than that. I am also sure it was not a TA since they have a completely different light pattern, which if you could not tell the difference in you should be shot.
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Old Jan 15, 2004 | 10:02 PM
  #23  
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What tools?!? All of the specialty tools you need can be rented from AutoZone, pepboys, or basically any other autoparts shop. All you basically need after that is a standard tool set with some sockets and whatnot, and a way to hold up the lifters, whether it be the magnets, or the lifter tool.

I think I spent 100 bucks on tools and accessories for my first cam install, which included the pulley puller, pen magnets, fluids, and everything else that was needed. As they said before, the Cam install is really not very hard at all ... the springs are somewhat annoying, but again not difficult.

Then again you're probably right, the 7-800 dollar install is a much better idea then the 100-150 dollars to do it yourself.
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Old Jan 16, 2004 | 12:29 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by xphantomws6x
What tools?!? All of the specialty tools you need can be rented from AutoZone, pepboys, or basically any other autoparts shop. All you basically need after that is a standard tool set with some sockets and whatnot, and a way to hold up the lifters, whether it be the magnets, or the lifter tool.

I think I spent 100 bucks on tools and accessories for my first cam install, which included the pulley puller, pen magnets, fluids, and everything else that was needed. As they said before, the Cam install is really not very hard at all ... the springs are somewhat annoying, but again not difficult.

Then again you're probably right, the 7-800 dollar install is a much better idea then the 100-150 dollars to do it yourself.
I'll probably do it myself this summer. I'm just frustrated that the damn tools are so expensive. (probably buy not rent for reasons some other posters stated) I used to work on Helo's so have plenty of mechanical experience. Just need a decent writeup. If I can find a decent price on a 224/114, springs, etc. then it shouldn't be a problem.
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Old Jan 16, 2004 | 02:08 AM
  #25  
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I Need Anothehr Drink
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Old Jan 16, 2004 | 11:54 AM
  #26  
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Haha camaro ....

Like I said, if you're looking for a stealth cam, pick one of the ones up above, the 224/114 is not going to sound stock, it will still have a small lope to it. Probably the B1 (221/221 114) is the largest you can go and have the car still sound somewhat stock.
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Old Jan 16, 2004 | 12:37 PM
  #27  
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Nice kills if you find anything more on stealthy cams with big power I would like to know. I think I found the cam I'm going with though.
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Old Jan 16, 2004 | 01:21 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by xphantomws6x
What tools?!? All of the specialty tools you need can be rented from AutoZone, pepboys, or basically any other autoparts shop. All you basically need after that is a standard tool set with some sockets and whatnot, and a way to hold up the lifters, whether it be the magnets, or the lifter tool.

I think I spent 100 bucks on tools and accessories for my first cam install, which included the pulley puller, pen magnets, fluids, and everything else that was needed. As they said before, the Cam install is really not very hard at all ... the springs are somewhat annoying, but again not difficult.

Then again you're probably right, the 7-800 dollar install is a much better idea then the 100-150 dollars to do it yourself.
Every time I went to rent a tool from autozone, they would charge damn near the price of the tool itself, with little or no deposit return. Maybe it's just that way here.

Scarecrow, no you cannot use my engine as practice.
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Old Jan 16, 2004 | 03:32 PM
  #29  
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Autozone rents the tools for free here, all you do it put down the deposit.
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Old Jan 16, 2004 | 06:24 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by black_z
Autozone rents the tools for free here, all you do it put down the deposit.
Yep, here all of the places rent tools for free, Home Depot and them do the same thing also.
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Old Jan 16, 2004 | 07:43 PM
  #31  
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Maybe I should go check back with them. But that's how I remember it last time I tried to rent some spring compressors.

Anywho, the cost of labor is well worth doing it yourself. Then you got more cash in your wallet!
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Old Jan 17, 2004 | 12:12 AM
  #32  
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.
Definately, I called some shops after I installed my first cam to see what it would've been to have someone do it, and they were all asking for around 700-800 dollars, and 2 days. That's just about the same amount I spent on all the cam, oil pump, springs, retainers, tools, fluids, etc etc etc .... Crazy.
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