Redfire 03

Car looks awesome!! Me butt-hurt? I've got over a half second and almost 10mph on you. Its only an old LS1 tho I give you that.

What's your mod list?

kdanner

Thanks you guys for the kind words. Different than I expected to hear on a GM forum. I guess not everyone is completely biased toward one make. I can admit I generally am, I've always had Fords, but many good friends through the years that race GM products, so I had the wrong expectations here. Maybe had something to do with my first exposure to this forum being someone flat out lying about my car though. I get a little touchy about things like that sometimes, mainly because I do all the work on my own stuff, even the tuning, so I guess I view these things as more of trying to discredit my abilities, where with some people(too many anymore) it is just their checkwriting ability that would be discredited.

Sure no problem, I'll try to catch every last little detail, which will give them more to pick apart, but whatever.

Tuned by me, endless hours of focus on the trans calibration
4.30 gear/alum rear cover with girdle
4400 converter
1 pc driveshaft
Weld RT-S 17x4.5 & 15x10.25
M&H 185/55-17 & MT 295/55-15
Off road X(factory manifolds, no headers)
magnaflow street catback
rear upper/lower control arms and brackets
rear sway bar relocate to clear the wheels
removed front swaybar/crossmember
5 point roll bar/5 point harness/rear seat delete
driveshaft loop

I did install a steeda CAI, but the car ran 11.44 without it, then ran only 11.40 in 1200' better air with it, so that didn't help.

Pretty sure that catches it all. Now someone will come along and say, see he has reduced weight. Well the loss of the front sway bar and crossmember saves 26 lbs. The rear seat is extremely light in these cars and even more useless once a roll bar is in, so yes it went away and that was a huge 16 lb loss. The front wheels/tires save about 20 lbs per side, the rears save nothing. The driveshaft saves 20 lbs. That all adds up to 102 lbs. The exhaust I'll call a wash as far as weight goes, it lost the converters, but is now all 3 inch tubing. Then I turn around and install a roll bar and harness, driveshaft loop, heavier torque converter, heavier ring and pinion, heavier rear end cover, heavier suspension, so what's the real weight difference? I can't say exactly to the pound, it may be a hair less than stock, it may be a hair more. Either way, it isn't enough to matter, certainly not with my 270 lb *** in the seat.

And finally in the interest of full disclosure, for the 11.37 pass I pulled the catback off, so that weight savings took the car from 11.40 to 11.37 with pretty much identical weather conditions. It wasn't worth the effort and I see no need to try that again other than I am leaving it off for now until I install the headers, just to ensure that I have a fair comparison before and after.

kdanner

Is that with or without the bottle? The closest nitrous has ever been to this thing is a car in the other lane, but that might change at some point. They seem to respond to it well, I know of another automatic 2011 with a 200 shot that goes from 11.80 down to 10.30 when he turns the hose on.

The Manalishi

iTrader: (3)

Looks killer and sounds like you got it dialed in pretty good man. Got to appreciate a good looking car that runs well and was completely done by the owner. Ford, GM or anything else for that matter. So whats next for that thing?

assasinator

yeah. over a half second with an h/c/i car vs some bolt ons. not too bad IMO.

.010" LS1 block, DM Performance main Girdle
Lunati 347 Pro Series rotating assembly, 11:1 comp
Ported LS6 oil pump, LS2 timing chain
EPS Custom Cam, PAC springs
ETP 215cc Heads Ported by RHRE in Sacramento


those sure are "OLD" lunati parts, very old designed cam and heads. right out of the chevy parts bin. circa 1997.

Redfire 03

No bottle runs yet. 347 H/C. I know, I know. Heads/Cam vs your Bolt-on car, but these newer cars come so stout out of the box.

What was the DA on that run? I bet that auto has everything to do with why those times are so much better than what ive seen out of the stick cars.

Omega Doom

iTrader: (2)

yea I agree but I'd like to see the car weighed cause some thing he says didn't seem right? like the wheels light wheels will always be lighter and then the converter ...I don't think when you switch from the larger(more fluid carrying) factory converter to a smaller(diameter and less fluid carrying) converter that you can some how add weight? now I will say those new 5.0's are monsters and they do run hard with minimum mods and the A6 seems to be the "choice" for the drag strip!!!

Redfire 03

Oh you didn't have to quote my mod list. I would have done it for you guys if you had only asked.

The reality is, regardless of how played out the argument gets, 13 year old technology is not going to equal the stuff that's out today. Sounds lame but it is what is. Your going to need a cam, improved head flow etc. etc. to run with newer mills that are much closer to stock.

But im glad you compared them head to head. Let's me know my old LS1 is still relevant.

assasinator

i know im picking at you, but do you think Yates D3 heads are 1950's technology? or the current SB2 offering? they outflow all of the current offerings from anyone in small engines. they make power at 10,000rpm if gearing rules allowed them to.

hardly old school 13 year old technology in your 11 degree heads. now the original LS1 heads are somewhat lacking. stud bosses and all.

Redfire 03

I think you might of missed where I was going a little bit but its all good.

The heads are really overkill for this application, could have went with a nice set of ported LS6's to make this kind of power. Probably be a little stronger under the curve to. The ETP's were more of an investment for my future combo which will be much stronger than this one. More cubes (400+ range), cam in the mid to high 240's and so forth. I've already got a Fast 102 intake, gotta get a TB for that. The new setup will make waaay over 500rwhp I promise. Gobs more torque than what this setup makes, at a lower rpm too. Im shooting for single digits on a small shot.

kdanner

Thank you. Right now plans are just to get the headers on it and see what happens. I do have very low expectations for them though, losing the stock converters seems to be responsible for the majority of the gains found in exhaust. Maybe I'm wrong about that, it would be nice if I was. After that, I'm just waiting on Boss 302 parts availability. If it's not priced outrageous I may just buy the whole engine rather than piecing things together.


The air was good that night, I have it at -197 at the time of that pass. Agree on the auto trans, these new ones seem to be getting it done for everyone, and without having any issues. The stick cars are tearing up transmissions and clutches, plus it's a lot more work sorting the suspension out. I do think at some point though the 4.17 first gear in this trans becomes a problem with a lot of rear end gear, and I may be at that point now. The car does weird things when it spins, like if the 60' is off a full tenth, the ET is only off a hundredth. I've never had a car behave anything like that. I've figured a way to get it to leave in 2nd, but only made one pass that way, it was a huge failure, for some reason unknown at this point it threw all the other shift schedules out of whack and the car was all over the limiter for every gear change and the 60' was worse than I hoped for. I may end up just having to run less rear gear.

I did tune a stick car for a close friend, it is also a base GT, only option is 3.73. He just has a useless CAI, off road X, muffler deletes, front swaybar/crossmember delete, and some of those Chinese made Weld Prostar knockoff wheels with ET streets. The stock suspension is killing it, I feel pretty strongly that once he gets his new suspension parts on and dialed in that it will at least go 70s, maybe 60s. Here's the best to date, you can easily see how bad the rear tires basketball when he leaves.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zDATLHJtzWY

Well I have 4 corner scales here at home, but if I go out and weigh the car again and take a picture of the scale display, are you then going to say I loaded the car full of weight to fake the picture?

As for the wheels, these are a street wheel, not a race wheel, so they aren't that light. You can see here that they are 16.65 lbs: http://weldracing.com/aitdownloadabl...aitfile_id/88/
The same size Weld Alumastar is nearly 5.5 lbs lighter.

The tires, you can see here that they are 35 lbs:http://www.mickeythompsontires.com/s...ETStreetRadial
The same size slick is 11 pounds lighter.

That comes to 51.65 lbs per side for what I have. Remember the stock wheels are only 8" wide with a 235 series tire, they aren't as heavy as you might think. I weighed them on a bathroom scale at 52 pounds. So, yes if I had a race setup on it, then that would cut off an additional 33 pounds or so, but that is not what I have. Same for the fronts, mine are the 17" to clear the stock 13.2" front brakes. If you ever see a 15" wheel on these cars, then they have put a smaller front brake on, no 15" wheel will clear the stock brakes, so in that case the front wheel/tire would be significantly lighter than anything similar to what I am running.

A stock converter is thin, made of sheet metal. A good aftermarket converter has a much thicker front cover cut out from a billet to support more lockup clutch plates and make the converter stiffer to reduce balooning at high RPM, as well as being beefier in areas like where the converter to flexplate bolts go. In this particular case the lugs for those bolts are even larger since it has a dual bolt pattern to support the large and small bolt pattern as used on the previous modular engines. The diameter isn't that much smaller than the stock one, those are already smaller than you'd see in some previous transmissions.

So if anyone wants to pick nits on the weight, go ahead, but I have been paying attention to it fairly closely all along, you'll be guessing about it more than I will be.

LT/LS Guy

Why all the hostility? What part of what I said was untrue? Let's see, rear seat delete, removed sway bar, crossmember, skinnies..hmm, seems I know your car better than you do. You come across as being almost as dense as that other Ford guy. What's his name? Maurissio? Anyhow..

Your car runs well. The stalled A6 being the X-factor. You and I would be a good race, with me having the edge in the 1/4 and pulling by a few cars from a roll. Gotta love a bolt-on LS2 in C6.

Irunelevens

Did you miss the part about the added weight? So the car is maybe 50-75lbs lighter than stock. I don't see a big deal there. It's not like he's trying to hide it.

MauriSSio

You get caught up in a fat lie and respond with name calling and trying to change the subject. Speaks volumes about your character.

kdanner

I'd say the hostility arose from someone saying that my car "is not a full weight car", and that someone(you) has never seen my car and certainly doesn't know any details about it, details which I have now laid out on this forum, and you chose to read them selectively.

You point out things that did remove weight, and conveniently gloss right over the things that put weight right back into the car. Then you claim you know the car better than I do, and call me dense? Do you think safety equipment is made out of helium? Do you smoke the good stuff?

I'm going to ask again, what does the car have to weigh to be considered "full weight"? You're the self appointed authority on that subject, so you should be able to answer that question.

LT/LS Guy

Do you realize that 99% of the time you talk to yourself, and that your attempts to prove a point go unnoticed? Seems you like to talk more **** than cars.

LT/LS Guy

Again, what I said was 100% truth. Your car is lighter than a stock GT. Nice attempt to make me foolish though. Too bad that's almost impossible to do. I would love to see your car (without you in it) on a scale and compare it to stock curb weight. Then again I really don't need to.

Irunelevens

Dude, whether you see it or not, that happens pretty often. And like he said, his car weighs less than 100lbs less than a stock GT. That's less than a gas-tank's difference.

Redfire 03

Excuse me for being blunt but are you retarded? That's not a full weight vehicle. My car comes in at 3419 compared to stock 3521. That's 122lbs reduction. Would I say my car is a full weight car? Of course not.

Irunelevens

Curb weight is measured with a full tank of gas. If you run at the track with 1/4 tank, is your car no longer full-weight? If it makes you feel better, add a tenth of a second to his time and take away one mph. You still have a mild bolt-on/suspension Mustang GT running 11.5 @ 118mph on DRs.