Death to HioSSiver!!
04-29-2012, 08:43 PM
#43
Did you not watch the ratio was as he was making the pull? 11.7 isn't ideal IMO but not terrible either. Plug heat range used? Was the motor built or is it a crate? I wouldn't start pointing fingers right away.
04-29-2012, 09:10 PM
#44
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You really shouldn't do that..especially with a Eaton car. I always wait around 45 minutes before making another pass in mine. Hot lapping isn't good for the engine or the clutch.
Yeah, 11.5 on a dyno jet is nice and safe. I've seen a lot of tuners shoot for 11.7 on a dyno jet and that is kinda risky IMO.
Easy now, my name is Kevin too
Easy now, my name is Kevin too
04-29-2012, 09:21 PM
#45
You really shouldn't do that..especially with a Eaton car. I always wait around 45 minutes before making another pass in mine. Hot lapping isn't good for the engine or the clutch.
Yeah, 11.5 on a dyno jet is nice and safe. I've seen a lot of tuners shoot for 11.7 on a dyno jet and that is kinda risky IMO.
Easy now, my name is Kevin too
Yeah, 11.5 on a dyno jet is nice and safe. I've seen a lot of tuners shoot for 11.7 on a dyno jet and that is kinda risky IMO.
Easy now, my name is Kevin too
04-29-2012, 10:30 PM
#46
04-29-2012, 10:36 PM
#47
definetly not gas. Hot laping it probly hurt it pretty bad. it was tuned with cool down times. i did 5 passes probly 10 minutes apart with out shutting it off. but i wasnt working it hard. the track was to shitty to.one 1.9 60ft. rest were 2.0,2.1
04-29-2012, 11:11 PM
#49
I told you before, you need to look into the killer chiller mod I think. Also keep the AFR around 11.5 or lower IMHO. With a heaton I'd rather be safe than sorry. Fix the motor and bust the LS6's *** and give him a reason to swap in the bigger motor. Also stick to 5w30 or 10w30 
04-29-2012, 11:35 PM
#51
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On that Michael Yount stuff? 
Mobil1 10W-30 here.
I've also heard Killer Chillers are good for the money. http://www.killerchiller.com/system_2_page.htm
Mobil1 10W-30 here.
I've also heard Killer Chillers are good for the money. http://www.killerchiller.com/system_2_page.htm
Last edited by snake95; 04-29-2012 at 11:42 PM.
04-30-2012, 03:37 AM
#52
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Are you sure that it's knocking and not head tick?
I would do another compression test to see if it's head tick or a piston. The pistons in those engines have tight piston to wall clearances and the heat might of caused one to swell.
I really hate it for you.
I would do another compression test to see if it's head tick or a piston. The pistons in those engines have tight piston to wall clearances and the heat might of caused one to swell.
I really hate it for you.
04-30-2012, 05:01 AM
#53
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thanks heater! thats the way i look at it. the guys that designed theese things know far more than us ? thats why i went with fords weight. i was gonna use motorcraft but went full synthetic. my tune is 12.0 a/f across the board after 2k rpm. it looks as if he didnt tune below 2k rpm.... and it did have a hicup at 1500 rpm if you brought the rpms up slow
04-30-2012, 05:04 AM
#54
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12.0 is too lean for these engines...especially on a dyno that doesn't properly load the engine.
From what I have been told 11.7 is the ideal A/F ratio for these engines.
Also remember that the blower adds additional heat to the engine and when the engine is usually tuned on a dyno, it is tuned at a more cooler temperature than you will usually ever see in the real world.
I hate that you didn't get what you asked for from your tuner. That's why I did a bunch of research before I took mine to have it tuned. The guy that tuned mine spent over 3 hours tuning it and my car is nothing special as it's just your standard bolt on's (including intake swap ).
From what I have been told 11.7 is the ideal A/F ratio for these engines.
Also remember that the blower adds additional heat to the engine and when the engine is usually tuned on a dyno, it is tuned at a more cooler temperature than you will usually ever see in the real world.
I hate that you didn't get what you asked for from your tuner. That's why I did a bunch of research before I took mine to have it tuned. The guy that tuned mine spent over 3 hours tuning it and my car is nothing special as it's just your standard bolt on's (including intake swap
).
04-30-2012, 05:07 AM
#55
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Now remember this is a built racing engine not a factory engine. There's differences in the tolerance of the motor..
04-30-2012, 06:11 AM
#56
[QUOTE=Heater;16255590]Are you sure that it's knocking and not head tick?
I would do another compression test to see if it's head tick or a piston. The pistons in those engines have tight piston to wall clearances and the heat might of caused one to swell.
I really hate it for you.[/QvUOTE] I was wondering the same. i drained the oil last night and it had aluminum shavings in it. so either way it has to come out of the car.
I would do another compression test to see if it's head tick or a piston. The pistons in those engines have tight piston to wall clearances and the heat might of caused one to swell.
I really hate it for you.[/QvUOTE] I was wondering the same. i drained the oil last night and it had aluminum shavings in it. so either way it has to come out of the car.
04-30-2012, 07:07 AM
#60
I dont know all bullshit aside , i have a kid on the way. i guess ill pull it out look at it. if the crank needs cut more than .010 ill put a aluminator short block in it. If it cleans up real easy than ill just fix the crank/rod and put it back together.