evangto87

iTrader: (6)

Honestly... if playing with nitrous... Stand alone is the only safe way to go. It only takes one lean spike to get a back fire

clonedws6

iTrader: (6)

Yes!!! Lets make another thread about how awesome you and your boss are!!

2SSARME

^loool

Camper

iTrader: (1)

punishmentcycle

iTrader: (6)

Questioning man hood huh? Just look at ur sig and it says it all. I wouldn't run a dry shot on ur car.. But do what u want.

evangto87

iTrader: (6)

Dude you are such a ******* clown... **** off! I was explaining why they are notorious for spinning tire... what that has to do with me or my Boss i have no idea. I referanced my car to show that it was already nose heavy and how the GT500s pack there extra 300lbs right over the front tires. Just another mindless troll on ls1tech.

Camper

iTrader: (1)

dont get worked up brah

evangto87

iTrader: (6)

No hes just a troll. I talk to OTHER people on here and he has to chime in every time. Hes deserving of a swift kit to the nuts. Nothing more... nothing less

Cwarta

iTrader: (12)

Pfft, heard THAT from the last S/C`d ford I raced That ended about 6 cars over hilarious! That was 80rwhp, 100+rwtq, and 100 lbs ago.

Carry on, better get that fixed before your parents see it!

CyberGrey Z28

iTrader: (4)

Bahahaha!!


Check sig

V-seriesTech

iTrader: (5)

I had to have:
1)Bottle open-either I twisted it, or you go remote.
2)Arming switch,...to energize the system...and everything is a go.
3)WOT switch wherever and however your get the signal, mine was at WOT @ pedal and firewall
4)Fuel pressure safety switch(i didn't have)-smart though-you drop fuel pressure , usually rail, it disarms nitrous.
5)"window switch" turn turn nitrous on @ a pre desired user chosen RPM...like, 2800rpm...for example, ...so if all above are in line, @ wot, and 2800rpm,..your nitrous would engage.
5a)"window switch" cont-you need an rpm to SHUT OFF..so,..if you redline @6800...then maybe 6700, or 6600rpm would be a good time to get comfortable to have it shut off, incase you over rev on a shift.

I only mention all above, cause some of us, just haven't tried nitrous, or are unfamiliar with it, how it works, and how to use it safely. There are a few more variables that matter but, the above, is the basics. Just like there is elaborate boost controllers, there is elaborate nitrous controllers. Time based, you could make a nitrous car hard to beat if you had your **** together. Problem is, nitrous, the way I wanna use it,...is brutal on parts.

To equal what I made from adding 11psi of boost, I picked up 333rwhp. Useable. Nitrous,.useable only @ wot, on a 330 wheel shot, would be decently violent. Like, ****, that hurts, violent.

Anyways, I think until you have your comfort/shift zone figured out, i'd end your nitrous blast 200 rpm sooner then rpm redline,...to prevent any kinda of bouncing off rev limiter. If your shifting is sluggish(we all gotta start somewhere)...shut if off 500rpm sooner. Theres no shame in saving your motor. In most cases, most cars stop pulling in the upper rpms anyways unless you got a fluid setup.

Sorry for the rant-I am by no means a nitrous guru,..just experienced it on my own, and several setups,and types.



Typically happens with WET systems, a nitrous system that sprays FUEL and NITROUS....as opposed to a DRY system, spraying on NITROUS.

Also, usually on systems that have nozzles BEFORE THE THROTTLE body are potentially more prone to having an issue ....but it is caused by FUEL PUDDLING IN THE INTAKE MANIFOLD, so direct port or single fogger, Usually, fuel puddling will occur in the back of a manifold,.... that **** ignites.... boom. Several things could cause this to happen. Bad designed system, stuck solenoid, driver error-etc...

My issue was my fault, I went WOT at to high of an RPM speed....once I went WOT,..the spray came on INSTANTLY,..the car blew the tires off...RPM's SHOT through the moon......I lifted but had already bounced off the rev limiter once,....suddenly,...flames shout out of every seam of my hood(it was at night)....if you blinked, you missed everything,..I didn't blink, my hood bowed open like a balloon, then closed again...the car had a massive vacuum leak since I blew the manifold in pieces. Fortunately, the fire was out as I came to a stop.

I cleared the multiple codes with my DiabloSport Predator,...started the car,..idles @ 3000rpm..lol...and I was able to drive it back home. So, don't hit the spray when your to high up in your rpm,...just pick your race better or slow down...etc.


Nitrous can be safe,..and really easy to use, just gotta be smart when your installing, pay attention to your wiring, it is absolutely crucial if you really love your car. You don't want to catch the car on fire for doing a halfass job.


Anywho,...not a nitrous guru...just my experience. Currently we run a few cars on nitrous, a direct port 500+ capable car one or two more, maybe.

It's fun,...just brutal on parts, and wot dependent(safely).

ExpatMedic

http://www.jdmtube.com/ipodvideo/625.mp4

LS2 KLR

iTrader: (1)

Before...




On the dyno...





And mine was right after xmas as well. Tuner went to start it up and apparently a noid stuck open and then boom.

hugger1975

iTrader: (3)

^ i have 2 noids in line for that reason.

Odds of both sticking is much lower.
And all i have is a 110 shot.

Safety first with the spray.

hugger1975

iTrader: (3)

willizm

iTrader: (10)

<-knows nothing of nitrous but learned more about it in one post. Ill stick to boost since I know that much better.

BottleMach

From what I've seen and read, nitrous backfires come from the air velocity being to low and can't carry the nitrous through the manifold. It puddles and ignites. B-Series sounds right on the money. I'm almost finished with my setup, and have a SafeCraft fire suppression system, just in case.

evangto87

iTrader: (6)

Very nice setup.

Also its the fuel that can puddle up in the intake, not the nitrous. That can cause a back fire. Its the most COMMON way, but not the only way. Guy i used to know had the worst luck with faulty NOS solenoids. Multiple fuel noids failed and kept leaking fuel into the intake... cant tell you how many times he turned his car on and blew his intake tube off.

BottleMach

Thanks, do the solenoids stick open, wouldn't you see it in the a/f

evangto87

iTrader: (6)

The older NOS fuel noids have issues with leaking due to constant pressure behind them. This was a solid 5-6 years ago. It wasnt a large enough leak to effect a/fs. It would only be pressure bleeding off and puddling into the intake through the noid. This only happened during start up.