H/C G8 GT vs HC Charger SRT8
02-13-2013, 01:40 PM
#21
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If I'm lucky.
The $1600 for kooks is out of my budget
And the install cost is 2 much.
A ported intake and CAI is something I can do pretty easily and still leave cash for a tune.
02-13-2013, 02:13 PM
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it was obvious you were pulling and were gonna keep pulling at higher speeds. i just meant that at the beginning of the video you can see his car pretty much takes up the whole frame so the whole frame is roughly a car length. your car sounds real good. sounds like a smaller higher strung engine than it really is. what rpms u take it to?
My boy has a ported intake manifold on his cammed SRT8 and it didn't gain him anything in terms of peak power...
02-13-2013, 06:59 PM
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SRTBoy,
Definitely should have gotten a UD pulley when you got the h/c package done so you would not have to pay additional labor when you do get it done. If I am not mistaken by the posts, you also need a true dyno tune to get you better dialed in. I have LT headers and a ported intake manifold on my Magnum SRT8 and if anything it might have helped on the top end some. I would say instead invest in a CAI, 87 MM TB, Mopar TCM with the pulley with a good tune and see how you turn out. Yeti was pulling pretty hard on you there in the vid. Good runs guys.....BTW SRTBoy, are those 22" rims too? That hurts too......
Definitely should have gotten a UD pulley when you got the h/c package done so you would not have to pay additional labor when you do get it done. If I am not mistaken by the posts, you also need a true dyno tune to get you better dialed in. I have LT headers and a ported intake manifold on my Magnum SRT8 and if anything it might have helped on the top end some. I would say instead invest in a CAI, 87 MM TB, Mopar TCM with the pulley with a good tune and see how you turn out. Yeti was pulling pretty hard on you there in the vid. Good runs guys.....BTW SRTBoy, are those 22" rims too? That hurts too......
02-13-2013, 07:05 PM
#25
My shifts are at 6600. It is still making power up to 6600 but I'm using the stock DOD lifters for my DOD cam so I can't run it up to 7000 like some G8 guys have been. My cam is a 224/226DOD lobs 226/228 non dod lobes .499/.499lift 115+4 LSA. Makes tremendous power for being so small. Less lift than a stock LS2 cam but has me pushing somewhere around 450rwhp. For my big whale of a tank I need a ton of midrange torque to get this bad boy moving on the stock stall.
The stock manifolds on those 6.1s are basically shorties/mids headers. There isn't much to gain from swapping them. Plus they are crazy expensive for mopars. Add to the fact that Mopar thought it would be better to make massive wheel wells instead of engine compartment making it ridiculous to install them yourself.
anifold on his cammed SRT8 and it didn't gain him anything in terms of peak power...
The stock manifolds on those 6.1s are basically shorties/mids headers. There isn't much to gain from swapping them. Plus they are crazy expensive for mopars. Add to the fact that Mopar thought it would be better to make massive wheel wells instead of engine compartment making it ridiculous to install them yourself.
anifold on his cammed SRT8 and it didn't gain him anything in terms of peak power...
02-13-2013, 07:08 PM
#26
I'm ready when you are. She's going to get the parts next Saturday
If I'm lucky.
A few reason. The shorties on it suppose to flow really well,
The $1600 for kooks is out of my budget
And the install cost is 2 much.
A ported intake and CAI is something I can do pretty easily and still leave cash for a tune.
If I'm lucky.
A few reason. The shorties on it suppose to flow really well,
The $1600 for kooks is out of my budget
And the install cost is 2 much.
A ported intake and CAI is something I can do pretty easily and still leave cash for a tune.
02-13-2013, 07:38 PM
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SRTBoy,
Definitely should have gotten a UD pulley when you got the h/c package done so you would not have to pay additional labor when you do get it done. If I am not mistaken by the posts, you also need a true dyno tune to get you better dialed in. I have LT headers and a ported intake manifold on my Magnum SRT8 and if anything it might have helped on the top end some. I would say instead invest in a CAI, 87 MM TB, Mopar TCM with the pulley with a good tune and see how you turn out. Yeti was pulling pretty hard on you there in the vid. Good runs guys.....BTW SRTBoy, are those 22" rims too? That hurts too......
Definitely should have gotten a UD pulley when you got the h/c package done so you would not have to pay additional labor when you do get it done. If I am not mistaken by the posts, you also need a true dyno tune to get you better dialed in. I have LT headers and a ported intake manifold on my Magnum SRT8 and if anything it might have helped on the top end some. I would say instead invest in a CAI, 87 MM TB, Mopar TCM with the pulley with a good tune and see how you turn out. Yeti was pulling pretty hard on you there in the vid. Good runs guys.....BTW SRTBoy, are those 22" rims too? That hurts too......
I'm trying to get a A/F gauge now.
Buying a CAI and maybe a TB tomorrow.
And yes the lead 22's are stuck for the time being. Stockers were stolen
But I'm sure I can do something else with that amount of money.
It is on my List tho
I'm almost sure the headers on the Rt and the SRT8 are different.some RT guys switch up to the SRT set
02-13-2013, 09:20 PM
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Performance wise, I would definitely look at moving back to a set of 20's for all of the reasons of which I am sure you already know. In place of the headers if you don't want to spend that money, you can go with a nice stall converter to put your power down and you can add some blue top solenoids to make the shifts much firmer even on top of the MTCM. Long tube headers for our cars are in the $1500-$1600 dollar range and if you don't do the labor yourself you are probably talking another $600 - $1000 extra since it's easiest to take heads off to install the headers. Those things are a b*%ch to put on from what I understand. What head and cam package did you wind up going with? No 180 degree t-stat either huh? With the Flowmasters that you have (btw they flow like s&^t), do you still have the stock resonators in the exhaust as well? I re-read you post that says you are basically all stock except the heads/cam and Flowmasters so you definitely have wiggle room with just doing some of the basic things. We'll never get over the weight thing so the car is going to be called a "pig" and a "whale" but these big cars can haul if you set them up correctly. Realize you have some pretty good options.
BTW, check this post out on a new CAI that hit the market recently...
http://www.lxforums.com/board/f84/jl...8-300c-327977/
BTW, check this post out on a new CAI that hit the market recently...
http://www.lxforums.com/board/f84/jl...8-300c-327977/
Last edited by mjc1241; 02-13-2013 at 09:40 PM.
02-13-2013, 10:56 PM
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Performance wise, I would definitely look at moving back to a set of 20's for all of the reasons of which I am sure you already know. In place of the headers if you don't want to spend that money, you can go with a nice stall converter to put your power down and you can add some blue top solenoids to make the shifts much firmer even on top of the MTCM. Long tube headers for our cars are in the $1500-$1600 dollar range and if you don't do the labor yourself you are probably talking another $600 - $1000 extra since it's easiest to take heads off to install the headers. Those things are a b*%ch to put on from what I understand. What head and cam package did you wind up going with? No 180 degree t-stat either huh? With the Flowmasters that you have (btw they flow like s&^t), do you still have the stock resonators in the exhaust as well? I re-read you post that says you are basically all stock except the heads/cam and Flowmasters so you definitely have wiggle room with just doing some of the basic things. We'll never get over the weight thing so the car is going to be called a "pig" and a "whale" but these big cars can haul if you set them up correctly. Realize you have some pretty good options.
BTW, check this post out on a new CAI that hit the market recently...
http://www.lxforums.com/board/f84/jl...8-300c-327977/
BTW, check this post out on a new CAI that hit the market recently...
http://www.lxforums.com/board/f84/jl...8-300c-327977/
And you hit the nail on the head with the headers.
My car mods are- 09 challenger short block inertia SRT MAX cam and their performance heads. 180t-stat, resonator removed and flowmaster super 44's. My tune is super safe also.
I'm liking that intake. I think I found the first component I'm sure about buying
I'm ordering the intake and TB tomorrow also looking at a MTCM on another forum.
Between those and dialing in my tune I'm sure I'll see a noticable gain.
02-13-2013, 11:12 PM
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I'm a big fan of pacesetters. I bought mine brand new and coated for $270bucks. That was a couple years ago and they still look and perform great. I used to race heads up with my friend when he still had his G8. We had all of the exact same mods down to the same brand intake and same tuner. The only difference was he had Kooks LTs and I had Pacesetters. We even had the same model highflow cats. Our times at the track were seperated by .03 seconds. That may have only been attributed to the fact that my car was heavier with the sun roof and two twelves in the trunk.
02-13-2013, 11:17 PM
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That's a good h/c set up so you are definitely on the right track. From what I understand, when dealing with Stu you get great customer service so I am sure that the tune he gave you is safe. Nothing will beat a dyno tune to get you really dialed in once you get the 87 MM TB and the intake. If at all possible, try to get the pulley on there as well prior to the dyno tune. The MTCM made a nice difference for me; it locks up your torque converter a bit quicker since our stock TCMs cannot be tuned. I definitely believe that you will see a noticeable gain...good luck.
Funny that you built yours on an 09 Challenger 6.1 shortblock because when I had my motor rebuilt in September, it was done on a '10 Challenger 6.1 shortblock. I liked the idea of having better pistons with the newer block; plus I got a real good deal since it only had 8K miles on it. I have 5.7 Eagle VVT ported and polished heads on mine as opposed to ported 6.1 aftermarket heads. Nice having that extra compression...
Funny that you built yours on an 09 Challenger 6.1 shortblock because when I had my motor rebuilt in September, it was done on a '10 Challenger 6.1 shortblock. I liked the idea of having better pistons with the newer block; plus I got a real good deal since it only had 8K miles on it. I have 5.7 Eagle VVT ported and polished heads on mine as opposed to ported 6.1 aftermarket heads. Nice having that extra compression...
Last edited by mjc1241; 02-13-2013 at 11:25 PM.
02-13-2013, 11:51 PM
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^^I think that the biggest argument against lt headers for the 6.1, one with which I struggled myself to rationalize, is the hp per dollar ratio. $2400-$2600 for 10-15 horsepower was a bit hard to swallow and the main reason that I did it was that I did not want to wonder if I was leaving anything on the table when i started to mod years ago. Normally yes, 10 hp here and there tend to add up as you mod up and that was how we did it years ago when everything was much cheaper. But the cost for parts and labor is getting up there nowadays and you have to pick and choose where and how you best want to spend your dollars. I can respect either route because I've been down both roads...You gotta pay to play and it all depends on how much you want to play and get the best bang for your buck.
02-14-2013, 02:10 AM
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^^i think that the biggest argument against lt headers for the 6.1, one with which i struggled myself to rationalize, is the hp per dollar ratio. $2400-$2600 for 10-15 horsepower was a bit hard to swallow and the main reason that i did it was that i did not want to wonder if i was leaving anything on the table when i started to mod years ago. Normally yes, 10 hp here and there tend to add up as you mod up and that was how we did it years ago when everything was much cheaper. But the cost for parts and labor is getting up there nowadays and you have to pick and choose where and how you best want to spend your dollars. I can respect either route because i've been down both roads...you gotta pay to play and it all depends on how much you want to play and get the best bang for your buck.
02-14-2013, 11:43 AM
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^^I think that the biggest argument against lt headers for the 6.1, one with which I struggled myself to rationalize, is the hp per dollar ratio. $2400-$2600 for 10-15 horsepower was a bit hard to swallow and the main reason that I did it was that I did not want to wonder if I was leaving anything on the table when i started to mod years ago. Normally yes, 10 hp here and there tend to add up as you mod up and that was how we did it years ago when everything was much cheaper. But the cost for parts and labor is getting up there nowadays and you have to pick and choose where and how you best want to spend your dollars. I can respect either route because I've been down both roads...You gotta pay to play and it all depends on how much you want to play and get the best bang for your buck.
Last edited by The Yeti; 02-14-2013 at 12:12 PM.
02-14-2013, 01:16 PM
#39
10rwhp is not a lot when you are talking about a car that weighs 4000-4300lbs with out a driver. You can more out of an excellent transmission tune to make the car "faster" It takes a lot more power to gain in the top end with a ultra heavy car that has the aerodynamics of a parachute than a light mustang or a 4th gen camaro. $2400 for peak power that will net you so little when you may already be pushing 450rwhp in a heavy car that will struggle to push through the top end anyway? Seems like a waste of money unless you have no where else to gain from and you just have to have it. Personally I would focus that money on gears and the greatest tune of all time...
02-14-2013, 01:51 PM
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10rwhp is not a lot when you are talking about a car that weighs 4000-4300lbs with out a driver. You can more out of an excellent transmission tune to make the car "faster" It takes a lot more power to gain in the top end with a ultra heavy car that has the aerodynamics of a parachute than a light mustang or a 4th gen camaro. $2400 for peak power that will net you so little when you may already be pushing 450rwhp in a heavy car that will struggle to push through the top end anyway? Seems like a waste of money unless you have no where else to gain from and you just have to have it. Personally I would focus that money on gears and the greatest tune of all time...
Agreed...
Agreed...
the gto weighs less than even a 5th gen which is still substantially less than the heavy cars (charger/g8) in this thread. after typical weight reduction most gtos weigh closer to 3600lbs.