I cannot imagine it. Too bad for the AWD

I would like to see one do a burnout with all four tires

 

If I drove an Evo I don't think I'd ever run from a roll, uness it was with a Honda.

 

No doubt!

It works both ways too. Guy on our local messageboard has an Evo and a guy in an SS camaro pulled up next to him at a light and started revving on him...while it was raining!

Needless to say it was quite the raping, and hopefully taught the f-bod a lesson in traction.

Of course, what idiot wants to street race in the rain anyway?

 

I actually think the LS1 responds to mods just as well as evos and stis do. I could be wrong but other than their initial boost control, bov, wastegate etc. they start getting expensive to go fast.

 

Sort of true, one of my really good friends has an 03 EVO. He is running 23 lbs of boost, new cams, larger piping for the turbo/intercooler, down-pipe, !CAT, Cat-back, intake, 2000 dollar ceremic clutch (the stock one is sh*t) and tuning. He walks all over my LS1 from a roll. He is running consistent 12.3's at 115 mph. He dynoed at a peak of 335 horses. He launches at 4500. I have helped build this car, and it is really sick for the stock turbo and internals. And getting all 4-wheels to spin is a lot of fun

 

^ The first thing you did with his Evo was get rid of the embarassing park bench wing, right?

 

I own a DSM (same basic motor as an Evo) and am on here researching LS1s for a project a little ways down the road. (Its porbably my favorite motor). And a wastegate is hardly a initial cheap mod . Exsaust and intake piping would be the basic bolt on just as it is for LS1. That and an ECU reprogram so it does not run pig rich.

Anyway. My overall outlook is this: Bolt on basics on 4g63 equiped cars tend to make bigger relative gains than on LS1 cars. My DSM is basicly stock save for a mildly ported turbine housing and 02 sensor, full exsaust, and 14 psi boost as opposed to about 11 psi stock. The diff between me and stocker is very very noticeable. At this altatude (5000 ft+) its a huge difference realtive to NA car gains. BUT, the LS1 is going to make the really big power a lot easier down the road. And if you throw spray into the mix it goes more in the LS1s favor by a quite a bit too. Just look at what C5R motor put down in road race trim. Thats a motor putting that power down for endurance races. You wont see so many 4g63s do that as continously and reliably for that kind of punishment.

 

I've ran a couple Evo's in my area... those things aren't sluggish from a roll with the right shifter lol... Intake, TurboBack, Boost Controller, and Turbo Timer, those things aren't EASY to beat... my friend stayed side by side with my a4 til I hit 3rd gear... then it wasn't a race, but he put up a damn good effort til then.

 

At higher speeds, the AWD, coupled with being shaped like a brick, will make it hard for them to keep up.

 

Well the LS1 is responsive to mods. But if you ratio the cost to hp, the little turbo 4 bangers are usually on top.

I mean, $2000 to go from 200hp to 300hp in a DSM. That's $2000 for a 50% increase in hp. SR20DET, 2JZ-GTE, 4age...Real easy to make a huge leap in hp.

The nice thing is, the LS1 starts out as a monster.

 

Yeah, but don't forget about Ford's new Cobra now also... I hear some people calling it "the Domestic Supra". 2 grand gets you from 360 rwhp to 500 rwhp.

 

AWD is not the bogger people make it out to be. The most common myth I have seen online is that people seem to think driveline loss is a set % no matter what your power. But its really a set amount more or less plus a certain percentage beyond that. The best explanation of this can be found on the Vorshlag motorsports site: http://www.vorshlag.com/miata_v8.asp These guys know what they are talking about. Evos and DSMs see about 18% power loss from flywheel to tire at stock power levels. Where the average RWD car will see more like 12% at stock levels. So a 350hp Evo looses ~65 hp from engine to road while a 350hp LS1/T56 will loose about ~42hp. 23hp is significant, but not as much as gearing and aerodynamics from a roll. And the overall percentages get closer as power goes up. Of course, the T56 wil also not break as much as power goes up .

 

Forced induction means that bolt-ons make huge gains when you remove the usualy very restrictive stock bits. Combine that with displacement and you get the 03 Cobra

 

I never said it was a %. The AWD does nothing but hurt once you are moving.

If you have the exact same car with AWD and F/RWD in it (GS-T and GS-X for example), the AWD will jump off the line, the F/RWD will pull from a roll. 'Tis the nature of the beast.

 

Yeap. Common thread? FI from the factory. If it's built right, it's straight nasty!

 

Someone inform me here if i'm wrong, but isn't a turbo timer just a device that keeps the engine running for a set ammount of time (like 45 seconds) after you turn the key off, to give the turbos time to spool down and cool off properly? How could that be worth any power? Why do I always see it listed as a mod? It would be like if I listed a transmission cooler as a performance mod, wouldn't it?

 

^ yes

 

I agree completely. Another reason why the Buick GN and Supra is a great car.

 

You don't downshift to 1st at 35mph with 3.23s.

3.23 A4 stock shift points are:
1-2 35MPH
2-3 85MPH
3-4 135MPH

 

I downshift to first all the time at 35mph and I have 3:42s...
my trans points with 3:42s is
1-2 42mph
2-3 79mph
3-4 127mph

According to the gear chart 3:23s is
1-2 44mph
2-3 83mph
3-4 135mph.
The LS1 4L60E is eithere geared a lil more..or just because the RPMs are higher...3:23s on LS1
1-2 46mph
2-3 88mph
3-4 142mph.

Info gathered at http://www.f-body.org/gears/