BAH towed home my ***, just because someone runs nitrous doesn't mean it's going to get towed home. My car has ran for years on spray i was towed home ONCE and i wasn't even using the spray or even had it hooked up at the time. So that's a pretty stupid thing to say.

Well i'd respect something with 500rwhp on the juice cause the means it was making 370rwhp without it.................

 

nitrous can be safe too. It's all in the tune. It would make your 5.0 even faster.

 

Ahh your right Jon, I was thinking Rousch's not bullits, my bad.

 

Do you also respect the amount of cash it takes to make 500rwhp naturally aspirated?

You have a lot to learn if you believe nitrous is the quick ticket to a blown motor.

Tony

 

I respect the ingenuity, the build quality, and the persistance to make 500 rwhp, NA. Who cares if N20 blows the motor outright? Even if it doesnt, most pro5.0 race cars, etc. who run the giggle gas have to do rebuilds about 2X as often as the other power adder and NA guys. Sure, N20 has come a long ways and so have pistons, etc. etc. I simply choose not to run it. Also, as far as N20 not being the quick ticket to a blown motor, I think everyone in this forum who has been racing long enough knows of at least ONE person that blew their motor on the juice, if not they themselves. I have several vid's of cars going up on the dyno, strip, etc. I have yet to see a single vid of a turbo or SC or the fact that a motor is NA causing it to blow up.

 

I have seen broken ring lands on cars with ANY power adder. Do you really think theres a fundamental difference between delivering oxygen to the combustion chamber whether it be chemically or by mechanical means?

400hp is 400hp regardless what you do to get it there. If a guy can get to 400hp for thousands less than the next guy, I call that ingenuity.

As for Pro 5.0 nitrous cars needing to rebuild twice as often, where are you pulling that fact from?

Everyone seems to think nitrous is this mystical thing that is like voodoo magic. Bottom line on any power adder is getting the necessary fuel and proper spark.

Here's something else to think about it. If you hook a turbo or supercharger up to your EFI car, do you think you can just start the car up and let it rip? Of course not, proper tuning needs to take place or a custom pre-made chip from the manufacturer needs to be used. The same applies to the nitrous setup except in most cases, a premade chip isnt available and folks don't want to read the manufacturer's fine print.

 

Dunno about pro5.0 guys could careless how many times they rebuild, we aren't talking about pro5.0 guys. My cousin had a blown motor from nitrous FROM IMPROPER USE OF IT like probably 80-90% of everyone that blows their motor from the mystical voodoo in a blue bottle. He didn't follow what i told him and he payed for it, now he's like you "OHHHHHH NOES I CAN'T PUT THE BLUE BOTTLE OF DEATH BACK ON MY FORGED ABLE TO HOLD 600HP MOTOR CAUSE I DIDN'T USE IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME".............

Nitrous does the exact same thing as a SC or turbo only it does it chemically just like said above. I bet you those turbo or SC or N/A cars were tuned properly. Most ppl. with nitrous don't tune they don't even know what they are even doing thus like the statement above they are improperly using it and that in turn causes blown motors. Nitrous ppl. get greedy they put 100shot on it and over night that turn's into 125 or 150 or 175, that combined with improper tuning most likely is the reason a motor blows. Granted that may not be in some cases i don't know i'm just telling you in my experiances that is what it always was.

 

Also nitrous hits a lot harder. Boost builds gradually and isnt quite as stressful on the engine parts however nitrous hits like a freight train. Been in both types of cars though and a nitrous car is wayyyyy more fun than a turboed/sc car IMO. Both are gonna cause gradual engine wear due to the stress of FI so its really pick your poison and hope your engine holds up.

 

Boost from a positive displacement blower (ala Whipple) doesn't build gradually It's instant on! However, I agree nitrous does build more torque/power in the lower rpms simply because there's more actually getting ingested vs the higher rpms.

Tony

 

Only if we could all go out and buy a SC or turbo...Nos is great if tuned right, I have no idea about 5.0's breaking more or not, I have a buddy who's fox box runs 12.2's Na and then he has a 150shot on it and is getting close to the 10's. My buddy has been spraying his lt1 for five year, and its up to 145k runs 11's. Maybe the ford guys you know aren't building there **** right and or can't tune right. But Me and a buddy did hook up a 150shot on his stock 97neon lol....That was the funnest 10 secs of my life.. And NOs does it hella hard, i wanna know what a 400shot is like...maybe one day.. when i hit the lotto.

 

Hey guys new here... in your responses regarding the initial question some of you are correct but failed to mention a few things. The Bullitt indeed has a different intake, high-flow exhaust system (gives it a distinct exhaust note) and upgraded suspension, but also has a few more goodies. This was taken from imboc.com:

Engine and transmission modifications

The new cast aluminum intake manifold has an increased runner diameter to maintain low-end torque and provide a broader power curve for increased top-end performance.
A twin 57mm-bore throttle body replaces the GT 65 mm throttle body, allowing for quicker throttle response and increased peak flow.
To reduce parasitic losses, the alternator pulley was increased to 66 mm and the water pump pulley was increased to 140 mm.
The exhaust system has been retuned to increase flow approximately 20% and give the Bullitt a new distinct sound.
All Mustang Bullitts will have the new TR3650 transmission and clutch assembly that provides improved shift quality. A new 11-inch flywheel and clutch assembly have been added to increase torque capacity and reduce clutch pedal efforts.
Exterior

Pony on grill is centered in a blacked out coral instead of chrome.
Does not come with a spoiler.
Brushed aluminum gas filler door.
Molded front mud guards.
Different Rocker Panels
Lowered by 3/4"
Red Brake calipers.
Fake rear brake venting is only extruding and does not have the honeycomb plastic grill.
Bullitt Badge on Trunk lid.
Rolled exhaust tips.
Molded c-pillars sweep forward instead of straight down.
Interior

Brushed aluminum looking shifter bezel.
Brushed aluminum shifter ****.
Door sills with BULLITT logo.
Retro dash has white lighting and closely indexed speedometer.
Seats are stitched to emulate the style from the 60's..
New stainless steel pedal covers are positioned to provide better heel-to-toe relationship.

From secondary dyno numbers (ie taken from indirect sources) viewed at imboc.com a stock Bullitt dynos anywhere from 225 rwhp to 252 rwhp, and averages around 240 rwhp. Check out imboc.com for more info. Follow the forum link to the time slips archive for some good info.

later

 

Doh forgot suspension upgrades... hell I don't feel like listing them. Check out this link:

http://www.bullittarchive.com/7025.htm#specs

 

"I dont care how far technology has come since the 70's and molten pistons, I still dont like N20 and refuse to run it"

Back in the day (1986) I ran the juice through my car like it was free. Hell, being 19 with a 250 shot, I figure I'm lucky to be alive still! Anywho, I NEVER had a piston failure. My 350's, yes-many of them, all failed due to one thing only. RODS!! For some reason I couldnt get it through my thick head that some crower rods would be a good investment. Then again my turd camaro had an open 2.73 gear also. Point being that the juice has been safe for decades as far as mixtures are concerned. Only if you have a fuel pump/pressure problem do you have to worry, and as I understand it you can rig up a pressure cut off switch to protect against that??? Last thing, I believe my rod failures were due to 8000 rpm's and not the nitrous.

 

Nitrous uses a chemical mixture pretty similar to what you find in a cutting torch. A blower/SC just forces in more air and you add more fuel. There IS a chemical difference. I agree its all in the tune, but if you bog off the line with a supercharger for whatever reason, you look like an ***, if you do it with N20, you buy a new motor.

 

Mach 1's were factory-rated @ 305 hp for 2003 and 310 hp for 2004.

Numerous dyno tests of completely stock Mach's show that they were under-rated by Ford both model years and actually produced closer to 325 - 335 crank hp straight from the factory.

 

true, bullits were making like 230-240rwhp, mach1's around 270-280rwhp, 2 different engines though.

 

Oh really? Where'd you get this idea from? Nitrous Oxide by itself is non-flammable, so how do you equate that to a cutting torch using highly flammable acetelyne and pure oxygen?

Nitrous oxide is made up of two parts nitrogen and one part oxygen (36% oxygen by weight). During the combustion process in an engine, at about 572 degrees F., nitrous breaks down and releases oxygen. This extra oxygen creates additional power by allowing more fuel to be burned. Nitrogen acts to buffer, or dampen the increased cylinder pressures helping to control the combustion process. Nitrous also has a tremendous "inter cooling" effect by reducing intake charge temperatures by 60 to 75 degrees F.

 

Is your car out of the shop? Hit me up for a few runs.