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500 whp eclipse DSM. something to really worry about?

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Old 06-13-2006, 12:04 PM
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Originally Posted by boostedinaz
Again, not really true. It is really sad to see so many people expect to get something for nothing.

I have have 8K in my car all together with a fresh motor, Shep trans, all mods, the purchase price, and it runs ****. So many people think you have to have a stage 11teen head with an all forged windsheild to go fast so they throw money at the wrong area's and when the other crap breaks they are deemed unreliable. I should have no problems going low 12's high 11's on my setup, don't want to put a cage in it, and I have taken it to San Diego once already and driven all over the state with only a dead battery as a list of problems.

Very good statment, I couldnt agre with you more......To many hacks own dsms and they gave them the bad name.
Old 06-13-2006, 12:24 PM
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Originally Posted by boostedinaz
Again, not really true. It is really sad to see so many people expect to get something for nothing.

I have have 8K in my car all together with a fresh motor, Shep trans, all mods, the purchase price, and it runs ****. So many people think you have to have a stage 11teen head with an all forged windsheild to go fast so they throw money at the wrong area's and when the other crap breaks they are deemed unreliable. I should have no problems going low 12's high 11's on my setup, don't want to put a cage in it, and I have taken it to San Diego once already and driven all over the state with only a dead battery as a list of problems.
(meh double post, read on bottom)
Old 06-13-2006, 12:24 PM
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Originally Posted by boostedinaz
Again, not really true. It is really sad to see so many people expect to get something for nothing.

I have have 8K in my car all together with a fresh motor, Shep trans, all mods, the purchase price, and it runs ****. So many people think you have to have a stage 11teen head with an all forged windsheild to go fast so they throw money at the wrong area's and when the other crap breaks they are deemed unreliable. I should have no problems going low 12's high 11's on my setup, don't want to put a cage in it, and I have taken it to San Diego once already and driven all over the state with only a dead battery as a list of problems.
What is your setup? going low 12s for 8k seems pretty good.
Old 06-13-2006, 12:43 PM
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Fresh motor with 1G rods 2G pistons and fresh head (no porting just a stock rebuild), 20G, 750cc injectors, FMIC, Basic Shep trans, and DSMlink. Down the road I would like to add cams and a sheet metal intake, but I want to see how far this setup will take me first.

I think a lot of it also has to do with preperation as well. I an VERY **** about the things I do to my car. When I had the motor out I made sure all the wiring harness was ok as well as hoses and any vacuum lines. I took broken conduit and replaced it, I made sure all conectors were ok, if they were not I replaced them. I also made sure everything was clean and looked nice as well and so on...
Old 06-19-2006, 02:16 PM
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Originally Posted by boostedinaz
Again, not really true. It is really sad to see so many people expect to get something for nothing.

I have have 8K in my car all together with a fresh motor, Shep trans, all mods, the purchase price, and it runs ****. So many people think you have to have a stage 11teen head with an all forged windsheild to go fast so they throw money at the wrong area's and when the other crap breaks they are deemed unreliable. I should have no problems going low 12's high 11's on my setup, don't want to put a cage in it, and I have taken it to San Diego once already and driven all over the state with only a dead battery as a list of problems.
Originally Posted by boostedinaz
Fresh motor with 1G rods 2G pistons and fresh head (no porting just a stock rebuild), 20G, 750cc injectors, FMIC, Basic Shep trans, and DSMlink. Down the road I would like to add cams and a sheet metal intake, but I want to see how far this setup will take me first.
There's a big difference between a 6 bolt and a 7 bolt engine reliablility wise. Why do you think so many 7 bolt guys go to a 6 bolt block? If you really want to talk about bargains look at the new GMHTP. There's a guy in there running 11.0s @ 120 with an LT1 Formula, for $1900 in mods, a turbo Buick running 11.2s @ 119.5 for $3000, and a Grand National that also runs 11.2s for $1900 all of which are on stock motors. You have a rebuilt engine with more reliable parts in it vs stock, a built trans, way bigger turbo vs 14b, and so on. Yeah you might have 8k in mods including the car, but what would that 8k be worth in a 5.0, LT1 car, or others. DSMs are expensive for the performance you get out of them.

Originally Posted by slick1851
Very good statment, I couldnt agre with you more......Too many hacks own dsms and they give them the bad name.
There, I fixed your grammar for you. Have you ever owned a turbo DSM? If not I'd appreciate if you would shut the **** up about something you've never had to deal with. EDIT saw you sig, but again you own a 6 bolt engine, ever had to deal with a crank out of whack destroying your engine? It's a lot of fun, especially the bill.
Old 06-19-2006, 02:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Beaflag VonRathburg
There's a big difference between a 6 bolt and a 7 bolt engine reliablility wise. Why do you think so many 7 bolt guys go to a 6 bolt block? If you really want to talk about bargains look at the new GMHTP. There's a guy in there running 11.0s @ 120 with an LT1 Formula, for $1900 in mods, a turbo Buick running 11.2s @ 119.5 for $3000, and a Grand National that also runs 11.2s for $1900 all of which are on stock motors. You have a rebuilt engine with more reliable parts in it vs stock, a built trans, way bigger turbo vs 14b, and so on. Yeah you might have 8k in mods including the car, but what would that 8k be worth in a 5.0, LT1 car, or others. DSMs are expensive for the performance you get out of them.



There, I fixed your grammar for you. Have you ever owned a turbo DSM? If not I'd appreciate if you would shut the **** up about something you've never had to deal with. EDIT saw you sig, but again you own a 6 bolt engine, ever had to deal with a crank out of whack destroying your engine? It's a lot of fun, especially the bill.
Just in case you didnt know it, 7 bolt motors are the 4g63's future. You couldnt pay me to put 6 bolt anything in my 2g DSM.

7 bolt 4g64's are even better.

And before you say anything else, its common ******* sense that a larger engine will respond more to FI than a 2 liter motor. I dont think anyone with half a brain in their head will argue with that.

Who gives a rats *** whats cheaper. You get what you pay for, its a double edged sword. A good FI setup done right on an LS1 isnt ******* cheap.
Old 06-19-2006, 02:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Beaflag VonRathburg
There's a big difference between a 6 bolt and a 7 bolt engine reliablility wise. Why do you think so many 7 bolt guys go to a 6 bolt block? If you really want to talk about bargains look at the new GMHTP. There's a guy in there running 11.0s @ 120 with an LT1 Formula, for $1900 in mods, a turbo Buick running 11.2s @ 119.5 for $3000, and a Grand National that also runs 11.2s for $1900 all of which are on stock motors. You have a rebuilt engine with more reliable parts in it vs stock, a built trans, way bigger turbo vs 14b, and so on. Yeah you might have 8k in mods including the car, but what would that 8k be worth in a 5.0, LT1 car, or others. DSMs are expensive for the performance you get out of them.


There, I fixed your grammar for you. Have you ever owned a turbo DSM? If not I'd appreciate if you would shut the **** up about something you've never had to deal with. EDIT saw you sig, but again you own a 6 bolt engine, ever had to deal with a crank out of whack destroying your engine? It's a lot of fun, especially the bill.
First time I've ever heard that, ever.
Old 06-19-2006, 02:47 PM
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Originally Posted by XakEp
Just in case you didnt know it, 7 bolt motors are the 4g63's future. You couldnt pay me to put 6 bolt anything in my 2g DSM.

7 bolt 4g64's are even better.
I'm not talking about the new 7 bolt 4g63, I'm talking about the ones in 2g dsms, like the one I had. For some odd reason the newer 7 bolt engines do not have the same problems with crank walk as the 2g engines did. So obviously Mitsubishi figured out the problem they deny exists. If you don't think that six bolt engines are superior, why are all the fastest dsms running them? http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/timeslips.php


Originally Posted by XakEp
And before you say anything else, its common ******* sense that a larger engine will respond more to FI than a 2 liter motor. I dont think anyone with half a brain in their head will argue with that.

Who gives a rats *** whats cheaper. You get what you pay for, its a double edged sword. A good FI setup done right on an LS1 isnt ******* cheap.
First off a larger displacement engine will respond better to almost anything, and at what point did I mention forced induction on a LS1? The only point I ever mentioned forced induction, besides dsms was on turbo Buicks.

Who cares about what's cheaper? You don't care about money, must be nice, but I do. So to me and I'm sure many others being able to get the most performance for the least amount of money is a big concern when buying a car and modifying it.
Old 06-19-2006, 02:51 PM
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To get an ls1 to 400 or so hp will cost not much more than getting 400 from the dsm.
Ls1 headers cam bolt ons...dsm evo 16g maybe some 550s, fuel pump,maf translator or safc..
To get a ls1 to 500 engine need a turbo, super,nitrous..heads,cam ,headers..
The ls1 has a glass rear end and a so so auto trans.
The dsm in 6 bolt form has a great engine,ok trans up to about 500 hp or so and ok rear end. At very high hp you have to install better trans in dsm ,better auto trans in fourth gen. Better clutch is assumed in either as power goes up.
But you guys are missing the point here. I like my dsms because they are smaller ,lighter around 2700 to 3100 dependning on awd or fwd form. They are all wheel drive optional which is awesome for traction on track or street and in bad weather. They have independent suspension and ride better than our fourth gens.
They are relatively easy to work on and most parts are fairly easy to find and not too expensive with some exceptions.Fourth gens are so so to work on the ls1 slightly better than the horrible lt1. Try changing plugs on my lt1 with stock exhaust manifolds!
Both cars can be huge fun. I love my dsms and I love my fourth gens.Dont see why its a big deal.As said my 97 talon is 90% USA parts..engine internals,turbo,sheet metal intake,clutch..etc.
I did spend a lot on my 97 talon. And going to spend a lot on my 99 trans am with the twin turbo project going on next on it.
But its hobby.You don't expect to get your money back on most cars unless you buy collectibles or keep them in garage under glass.
I enjoy them and each one my 96z8,my 99 trans am and my 97 talon and my older 80 ta and 91 fwd laser are all neat in their own way.
The 97 is awd, destroy any car not on drag tires on the street and track off the line and with 650 plus hp potental its a freakin screamer.
My 96z28 is pretty reliable only did an alternator and water pump in last couple years of owning it and it responds ok to mods and love the sound of the lt1 and the bottom end on lt1s.
My 99 is wild looking car and will be freakin awesome with a 6.0 iron block and my twin turbo kit,12 bolt etc.
My 91 fwd laser likely sell but its fun very light and 2700 pounds.
My 80 ta also likely sell but its got the bulletproof turbo 400, rebuilt pontiac 400 6.6 litre hopped up and stronger than our fourth gen 8.5 10 bolt.
Each unique,each fun. all have their downsides.
Everything does.
If some of you guys would go for a ride in a stock or modded up dsm you would maybe start to like them. They are great fun. Yes its expensive if you want to build a 600 hp one like mine. But you only live once if you can afford to have some fun why not!

And I will tell you ,boost if hugely addictive.After you have turbo car you will want to turbo all your cars,your lawnmower,your wife and kids.LOL
Its like never ending nitrous bottle. When my 97 goes from 150 hp 200 hp off boost to like 500 engine in 800 rpm that is freaking impressive as hell.! Its like a 300 hp nitrous shot in the butt when that big snail spools up.
You can't have more fun out of bed than that!

And 7 bolts are not new tech..maybe the 4g64 7 bolt is ok. The 6 bolt are the tried and true almost never crankwalk dsm motors.I got the best of both in a 2.4 6 bolt with forged internals. My 7 bolt is a doorstop!
The 2g head is a bit better down low than the 1g head..big deal. I dont care about down low I have a 2.4!

You can get a dsm to around 300 engine hp very cheaply. Thats equal to lt1 performance. And they get great mileage, handle and ride great..look nice and turbos are fun as hell. And you can find them dirt cheap sometimes.I picked up my complete but non running 91 fwd turbo loaded laser for 400 bucks.It needed a computer that got for 100 bucks off ebay! I popped a boost controller and mild mods and the thing screams.It went 140mph with a pooched 14b turbo and 13psi!
Beat that for 600 buck investment.


I forget if posted some pics of my car.I can very shortly post final pics of it just putting nose back on the front mount is pretty big and had to do some minor trimming.

Here are the engine pics on the stand and in the bay and the intercooler.










Old 06-19-2006, 02:56 PM
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Those are my temp intercooler brackets have billet ones and it will be centered and all that for final install later today.

Also had a bit to finish up in engine bay when that pic was taken.Car is going thru 500 mile break in now and have only hit 12psi so far turbo can boost to like 40psi ,highest dyno seen on my turbo was 620whp. thats wheel hp .No nitrous.It has gone 9s at like 140 in 1/4 also no spray. It is one bad **** and can hit full boost at 3800rpm on my 2.4 motor. It spools up so freakin fast it sounds like an electric drill.

And it makes the best noises being a Ball bearing.It spools down after you shut the car for a minute or so that sounds even cooler.
Its a freakin jet airplane my 97. My 99 twin turbo ta will be faster but it weights near 3900 pounds raceweight. The talon would be like 3300.And the awd makes for killer launches.
I plan on tracking it a low boost this year like 20psi around 500 engine hp and next year buy trans and stronger axles and then take it to 30plus and try to get some 10s before they kick me off for no cage.
Old 06-19-2006, 02:56 PM
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Originally Posted by BoOsTeDeAgLe
First time I've ever heard that, ever.
Maybe we have different ideas on what expensive is. I bought my 95 GST for $5k, and put probably $200 into performance parts, when all hell started breaking loose. Crank walk, new clutch, slave and master cylinder, leaking heater core that caused anti freeze / water to leak on the floor and the car to overheat, among many other problems.

I'll agree that the performance parts weren't expensive for what I got, but fixing what they destroyed sure as hell was. Nobody wanted to touch my car with a 10 foot pole without charging me major money. Try calling four places and having them estimate a clutch swap for $1200. $300 clutch, $100 resurface flywheel, then $800 in labor, with no warranty because some people believe after market pressure plates cause crank walk.

I ended up selling my car for $2750, a big loss at 17 years old, not to mention the cost of repairs, time working on it, and so on. I won't say all 2g dsms are bad, maybe I just got unlucky. I really liked the car in the first month I had it where nothing went wrong, but after that it was five months of hell.
Old 06-19-2006, 02:57 PM
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Those myspace pics mean nothing. Dude could have a fancy manifold, big *** turbo and have none of the supporting mods. I know a local guy that has a 1998 auto awd. being an auto and awd doesnt help with out a built trans and converter but... He has a big *** fmic, 60 trim and some big exhaust and is def a dog. Like some guys said, without the PROPER mods and tuning/driver willing, the car isnt ****.
Old 06-19-2006, 02:58 PM
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Originally Posted by boostedinaz
Fresh motor with 1G rods 2G pistons and fresh head (no porting just a stock rebuild), 20G, 750cc injectors, FMIC, Basic Shep trans, and DSMlink. Down the road I would like to add cams and a sheet metal intake, but I want to see how far this setup will take me first.

I think a lot of it also has to do with preperation as well. I an VERY **** about the things I do to my car. When I had the motor out I made sure all the wiring harness was ok as well as hoses and any vacuum lines. I took broken conduit and replaced it, I made sure all conectors were ok, if they were not I replaced them. I also made sure everything was clean and looked nice as well and so on...
You on DSMTUNERS BoostedinAZ ehh
Old 06-19-2006, 03:10 PM
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My99TAWS6, that's a sweet dsm. For me being in college, performance for the money is the biggest thing for me right now. Your 2g is awesome, but I'm sure it cost a lost of money to build that. You missed one point though, maybe you were talking about an all motor ls1, but you can throw a 150 shot on a ls1 and make over 400 to the wheels, for less than five hundred dollars. Stock drivability and power when you want it. You might have to open the bottle and fill it regularly, but for the money nothing beats that. Try doing that on a dsm and it'll just go blamo. A whole nitrous system on a LS1 is cheaper than a evo III 16g by itself. I know you can say I bought my dsm for X amount less than a ls1 car, but mod for mod a LS1 will out perform a 4g63.
Old 06-19-2006, 03:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Beaflag VonRathburg
Maybe we have different ideas on what expensive is. I bought my 95 GST for $5k, and put probably $200 into performance parts, when all hell started breaking loose. Crank walk, new clutch, slave and master cylinder, leaking heater core that caused anti freeze / water to leak on the floor and the car to overheat, among many other problems.

I'll agree that the performance parts weren't expensive for what I got, but fixing what they destroyed sure as hell was. Nobody wanted to touch my car with a 10 foot pole without charging me major money. Try calling four places and having them estimate a clutch swap for $1200. $300 clutch, $100 resurface flywheel, then $800 in labor, with no warranty because some people believe after market pressure plates cause crank walk.

I ended up selling my car for $2750, a big loss at 17 years old, not to mention the cost of repairs, time working on it, and so on. I won't say all 2g dsms are bad, maybe I just got unlucky. I really liked the car in the first month I had it where nothing went wrong, but after that it was five months of hell.
Sounds like somebody beat the hell out of the car before you bought it. I've discovered that when you have a DSM, you have to know, or at least attempt to learn how to work on it yourself, I simply do not trust repair shops, and its the easiest way to blow your money when the alternative is putting in wrench time. I didn't know **** about them at first, but I bought a manual, and frequent the web forums, and gave it hell, now I'm 100% happy with my dsm's.
Old 06-19-2006, 03:14 PM
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Originally Posted by HAUS1
Those myspace pics mean nothing. Dude could have a fancy manifold, big *** turbo and have none of the supporting mods. I know a local guy that has a 1998 auto awd. being an auto and awd doesnt help with out a built trans and converter but... He has a big *** fmic, 60 trim and some big exhaust and is def a dog. Like some guys said, without the PROPER mods and tuning/driver willing, the car isnt ****.
I'm sorry, maybe I missed it, but that made very little sense at all with the local guy analogy.
Old 06-19-2006, 03:17 PM
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Originally Posted by BoOsTeDeAgLe
Sounds like somebody beat the hell out of the car before you bought it. I've discovered that when you have a DSM, you have to know, or at least attempt to learn how to work on it yourself, I simply do not trust repair shops, and its the easiest way to blow your money when the alternative is putting in wrench time. I didn't know **** about them at first, but I bought a manual, and frequent the web forums, and gave it hell, now I'm 100% happy with my dsm's.
Yeah, that's what I figured out after I got it. My Chiltons manual looks like I rubbed it in the dirt, from all the nasty *** grease and random gunk on it. You can set it down and it will open right up to the how to remove your dashboard page, that was an all day project that ended in failure. There were just some things that I couldn't do by myself, like rebuild an engine, put in a new clutch, do body work and so on. Hell, I tried to everything I could do to save money, that's what dsm owners do.

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Old 06-19-2006, 03:21 PM
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Yes spray it maybe but they are bringing in think nitrous unhooked on street legislation.And you need more than just the nitrous kit to do it right,new fuel pump,
purge,bottle heater,bottle warmer.it adds up.
And disagree the 6 bolt dsm motor is plenty tough and will easily handle a 75 shot mabye 100 and nitrous does more on turbo cars the shot is amplified in its effects.

My car is not cheap at all..never said it was. I did a lot of work myself but it is likely around 20,000 US or a bit more counting 12000 or so paid for the car.But car is pretty minty one owner female.
I figure for my 20,000 I have a supercar.Supertalon I call her. Give a viper a good run or beat it depending no boost levels etc.
Old 06-19-2006, 03:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Beaflag VonRathburg
I'm not talking about the new 7 bolt 4g63, I'm talking about the ones in 2g dsms, like the one I had. For some odd reason the newer 7 bolt engines do not have the same problems with crank walk as the 2g engines did. So obviously Mitsubishi figured out the problem they deny exists. If you don't think that six bolt engines are superior, why are all the fastest dsms running them? http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/timeslips.php




First off a larger displacement engine will respond better to almost anything, and at what point did I mention forced induction on a LS1? The only point I ever mentioned forced induction, besides dsms was on turbo Buicks.

Who cares about what's cheaper? You don't care about money, must be nice, but I do. So to me and I'm sure many others being able to get the most performance for the least amount of money is a big concern when buying a car and modifying it.
I had a 7 bolt 2.0L in my car. Why bother putting a 6 bolt in when I could just drop in a 7 bolt 4g64 that bolts right in without having to convert my whole setup to a 6 bolt? Its a waste of money, and fewer and fewer people are swapping to 6 bolts.

Its a dated mod that will die out.
Old 06-19-2006, 03:32 PM
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Originally Posted by MY99TAWS6
Yes spray it maybe but they are bringing in think nitrous unhooked on street legislation.And you need more than just the nitrous kit to do it right,new fuel pump,
purge,bottle heater,bottle warmer.it adds up.
And disagree the 6 bolt dsm motor is plenty tough and will easily handle a 75 shot mabye 100 and nitrous does more on turbo cars the shot is amplified in its effects.
A dynotune wet kit is $379, window switch is $100, dynotune heater is $139. That all adds up to $618 and purge isn't really needed on a wet kit, not is a new fuel pump on a 150 wet shot. If you go dry, yes you'll need those things, so the cost will go up.

I agree nitrous on a turbo car is completely different. Added cooling, more boost, faster spool, and so on. The major difference here is that when I'm talking about the LS1 I'm talking about reliable horsepower on pump gas. A 150 shot on a LS1 isn't pushing it at all, while a 100 shot on a dsm is a whole different thing. DSMers don't like to push more than a 75 shot at most with other mods on the stock short block, like larger turbos, cams, ported heads etc. Also with the dsm your going to have to look into finding a place that sells over 93 oct fuel, which isn't cheap or a meth kit, which is again more $.


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