seriously plainred I'm not tryin' to rip on you but I think you learned the lesson w/o anyone telling you . . . least I hope so

never judge a book by it's cover . . . especially racin'

I will give the LS1 all the props and praise it deserves
but never just assume that your LS1 will beat an LT1
there are tons of mid-12 second bolt-on LT1s around (and quicker don't wanna offend anyone)

don't just assume that the other guy has some juice or "stealth" cam

now go mod that thing!

stay safe.

 

cars have a redline for a reason

 

LT1's don't bother me...lol...

 

Got to love the suprise of the LT1. The LS1's are good motors but alot of people feel they will kill any LT1 out there; WRONG ANSWER! My Modded GTP would beat LS1's and all it had was pulley, tune, plugs and fwi. Never assume you will win...


Chris

 

 

Are you sure it's not an ls2 Gto they look alot alike?

 

I always thought an LT1 Z28 or T/A was about the same as the new mustang GT's ( 13.70s w/ decent driver ). Are you guys sayin a stock 96 Z28 with a CAI , full exhaust, and a tune = LS1?

 

dude my LT1 ran 12.9s with headers/cai/tune/tires

LT1s aren't slow, contrary to popular belief.

 

well can say this, i could easily beat a stock LS1 with my old set up. CAI, 4.11 gears, tune, and cutout... (*scratch head*) i think that was all, its been a while. but def. no internal work. and i'm pretty sure that's all i had done to it.

 

I know of a decent bolt-on 96' LT1 M6, it's not fast but it does good for what it is. Has outrun a bonestock LS1 Firehawk M6, a stockish 04 Mach 1 M5 and a couple other cars you would think would outrun it. Driver error was not an issue in either race, I assure you. Now with that being said, almost every other LT1 around here I've seen are frikin turds and can barely outrun 96-98 GT's(sad aint it) Flame suit on

 

a stock car with 285hp and 325torque is such garbage. CRAP CRAP CRAP!

 

I destroyed LS1s with your mods with my full bolt on/ tuned LT1. and there are less and less "clean" looking LT1s around. not a good way to judge lol. there is a street driven 9sec talon around here that looks like garbage (paint peeling, etc)

 

thats probably less than what you spend on your integra

 

I ran right with two different LT1 F-bodies back when I had my '98 GT. It was one of the few '98s that got 3.27s, and I also had the all-mighty K&N filter, PI intake manifold from a '99 GT, X-pipe, and exhaust. They "should" have been pulling me, but it just didn't happen. One was a '96 WS6 M6, and the other was a '97 Z28 M6 with a freshly-rebuilt motor.

 

HA HA HA HA.

HA HA HA HA.

 

Exactly my point . Sometimes what *should* happen isn't what actually does happen

 

My only performance mods are intake and full exhaust (not spraying) with my timing set up for nitrous. I race my roommates LS1 A4 with lid, TB, and catback all the time. I'll inch on him from a 5mph and 60mph rolls. Now I put headers on his car so I won't even bother from a roll lol

 

I'll give ya a race in a crappy looking LT1
1 fender has faded paint and the hood has chips on it. Trust me I'm slow though.

 

WHAT? I am confused.

 

I second the shifting and MAF comments.
People use standard GM MAFs in boosted applications over 500WHP. Thats about 50LBS of air per minute or more. Takes a lot to move that much, and most of us dont have it.
And even if your power peaks at 5500, go to 6000. Think about it. Lets say you are in 2nd. And your power starts to fall off at 5750 in a stockish car. If you shift at 5750, you wil go back to a lower RPM and a lower gearing advantage as you use third gear. So basicly you just drasticly reduced the actual WTQ you are putting down.
Now if you hang on to 6K, sure the almighty dyno says that you are putting down less power. But the thing is, you can be at a lower crank TQ RPM point in second and be making a hell of a lot more WTQ than at peak crank TQ RPM in 3rd. The name of the game is to use those lower gears as long as you can before you either throw a rod or really loose a lot of power. The more time you spend in 2nd and third the more time you are using a big TQ multiplier to get down the track.

This is why you cant figure shift points from a dyno alone or the butt-o-meter alone. Your gear ratios matter. If take the dyno and your gear ratios, you can actually sit there and figure it out, but it's a boring bit of math.