LS1 that Doesnt Launch
Thanks
Nakoz
That would explain the falling on its face after a hard launch.

That would explain the falling on its face after a hard launch.
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..sure, it's not easy on the clutch and rear end. That's what I said. And you WILL break something, if you drop the clutch at 6k all the time. The point was whatever rpm you launch at, don't let them drop. And you propose to cure bog with lower rpm? Higher rpm's make you bog more? whatever, pal...
, and to answer a few questions, I dont believe I can turn my low trac on or off, either way it doesnt really effect my launch. I can literally do a 5 minute burnout and it will never come on. But it does engage when I downshift at high rpms. Currently I do not have anything other than a stock 10 bolt. I did however get the aburn gear posi when i bought the car but that really doesnt help much.
I have a set of 4:10s in my closest and may put them in,(still debating on it).
Either way I will try your suggestions.
Thanks
Did you read the 1-st post? What DR's are you talking about? What spin? The guy is on ET streets at the track and is trying to use their potential, for christ sake...
..sure, it's not easy on the clutch and rear end. That's what I said. And you WILL break something, if you drop the clutch at 6k all the time. The point was whatever rpm you launch at, don't let them drop. And you propose to cure bog with lower rpm? Higher rpm's make you bog more? whatever, pal...
As a few people here have stated, go from a lower rpm, do EXACTLY what I said rolling into the gas as you go ... and you will not bog. Very simple. I don't understand what your gripe with the laws of physics are, but I would love to see you launch a car with ET street at 6k and not bog/break anything. Send me a video of it happening and I'll take back all my statements. Btw, I have only once seen an fbod at a track launch from a really really high RPM ... and they towed him off the track a few seconds later.

Nakoz, if you want to break your car, without solving your problem, go ahead and take this guys advice ... if you want the simple solution that will work, take the advice from the rest of the people that have responded.
since then I now launch @ 3500 jus to be on the safe side, maybe when i get my spec stage 3 clutch ill launch @ a higher rpm, the next thing ill have to worry bout is my rear end goin! Did you read the 1-st post? What DR's are you talking about? What spin? The guy is on ET streets at the track and is trying to use their potential, for christ sake...
..sure, it's not easy on the clutch and rear end. That's what I said. And you WILL break something, if you drop the clutch at 6k all the time. The point was whatever rpm you launch at, don't let them drop. And you propose to cure bog with lower rpm? Higher rpm's make you bog more? whatever, pal...
As a few people here have stated, go from a lower rpm, do EXACTLY what I said rolling into the gas as you go ... and you will not bog. Very simple. I don't understand what your gripe with the laws of physics are, but I would love to see you launch a car with ET street at 6k and not bog/break anything. Send me a video of it happening and I'll take back all my statements. Btw, I have only once seen an fbod at a track launch from a really really high RPM ... and they towed him off the track a few seconds later.

Nakoz, if you want to break your car, without solving your problem, go ahead and take this guys advice ... if you want the simple solution that will work, take the advice from the rest of the people that have responded.
....not really because I can't afford to keep replacing them but it can be used that way.BTW, J-rod launches his near stock ZO6 on ET streets on the rev limiter. Look at the remark on this site where his avatar should be.
Phantom, I guess it all depends on what your ultimate objective is. If it is the best ET at no expense, then IV's advice is the best. It IS hard on the drivetrain. But with ET streets you are either going to bog, pull a wheelie, or your drivetrain(most likely clutch) is going to absorb some the energy. The goal should be just the right amount of wheelspin without really breaking the tires loose(kinda like the inverse of anti-lock brakes). I like to think of the clutch as an infinitely variable torque converter
....not really because I can't afford to keep replacing them but it can be used that way.BTW, J-rod launches his near stock ZO6 on ET streets on the rev limiter. Look at the remark on this site where his avatar should be.
The method I have suggested is tried and true, I have been using it for awhile, and I'm sure that is the method that most people use. I always seem to get a pretty good launch, with minimal tire spinning, and no bog ... so it definately works. Plus, even with a bunch of hp, and 4.10s, I have yet to break anything (knock on wood).
I'm really tired.. I'll try to explain for the last time. If a person cannot understand in 3 attempts, then I normally give up.
Nobody tells nobody to launch at a specific rpm of 5krpm or 6198rpm or whatever... ...I just explain that whatever rpm you launch at, if you allow rpms to drop to 1000 - that's what the bog is. So it doesn't matter if your original rpm is 2000 or 6000 - if you drop the clutch and your rpms drop to 1000 - you WILL bog. So, again, if you decide to launch at 2000rpm - keep it at that #, don't let rpm's drop. If you launch at 3krpm - keep it there, don't let it drop. Ultimately, provided you have traction, guts and good parts, you can launch that way at 6k+ rpm.
Now it doesn't make no sense to launch at 3-4krpm and then allow rpm's to drop - that's how you toast parts... ...if you want to go up the range - use it.
It seems to me that you are not arguing with the "don't let rpm drop" part, you just fixed yourself on the 6000 #...
My personal technique is to actually go almost off-idle (1.5-3krpm, depending on track prep), and INCREASE rpm as the clutch engages, so that by the time it's fully engaged, I try to be at 4-5krpm. FWIW, that gave me relatively consistent 2.0 60' on street potenzas 245/50ZR16 at one of the worst tracks in the country (SIR), no VHT on tire trick or anything like that...
In the end I'm not sure what you are proposing; like the guy above said, I only gave the recipe to get the best #'s. If you want to save parts, just use street tires.
anyway, try to read it twice if something doesn't make sense to you, I'm not going to explain anymore..
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as a side note, I did try to start moving at 4+k couple times, that's when [stock] clutch pedal goes to the floor... now this is subjective, but IMHO it's the difference in rpm and sharp clutch drops 6krpm-1krpm that snaps 10-bolts. I.e. if you start at 6krpm and ride the clutch, your rear end will be Ok (sort of like converter), though riding the clutch is riding the clutch and will burn it eventually, but it's better than let it go at 4k...






