Caliper Problems
Caliper Problems Ok so i pulled the calipers off the other day to paint them and put new brake pads on it and turned the rotors also. Anyway now i put them back on and they are real tight and scrap real bad on the rotors even though im not on the brakes at all. also i noticed that with the rotors off and the calipers all bolted up the actual caliper can move side to side on the "guide pin" things on the mounting bracket....is this supposed to happen?
that probably doesnt make much sense but i dont exactly no how to explain it.
Any help is appreciated!!
that probably doesnt make much sense but i dont exactly no how to explain it.
Any help is appreciated!!
On The Tree
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 184
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From: Vegas
The caliper is suppose to move side to side on the pins, that is how your calipers work. It is one sided [piston(s) are on one side]. If it had pistons on both sides, the caliper body would be stationary cause pressure would be applied from both sides. Did you do a proper bed-in procedure for the new pads? With any brake work, you should do a bed-in procedure according to the pad manufacturer and bleed the system with fresh fluid.
if replacing pad,rotors(fresh machined) eather or both, you do not want to over heat them, they need to be heat cycled.
you should make 8-10 slooooow stops from 15-20 mph, roll a bit between stops to allow cooling then 8-10 stops from 40-50 mph again rolling between stops after this your pads and/or rotors are seasoned and good to go
good luck,Johnny
you should make 8-10 slooooow stops from 15-20 mph, roll a bit between stops to allow cooling then 8-10 stops from 40-50 mph again rolling between stops after this your pads and/or rotors are seasoned and good to go
good luck,Johnny
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What will have to if i did overheat them...would this cause them to sound like they constantly have slight pressure on them? I think my caliper brackets are messed up. On almost all of them the "guide pin" things were seized in them...so what i did was pulled them out and cleaned out the holes with a drill then greased the pins and put them back in
And that seemed to work a little bit but they are still grinding way more than normal
Do you think i need new caliper brackets? When i put the guide pin things back in the holes them felt like they could slide around pretty easy
What do you guys think?
Ohh and a side not i changed the gear oil in the rear end so im almost positive its not the differential
And that seemed to work a little bit but they are still grinding way more than normal
Do you think i need new caliper brackets? When i put the guide pin things back in the holes them felt like they could slide around pretty easy
What do you guys think?
Ohh and a side not i changed the gear oil in the rear end so im almost positive its not the differential
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did you push the pistons back into the housings with a vice before installing the new pads? if not then there's nothing wrong with your brackets, your just dragging the pads. the brakes automatically adjust for lost pad material whenever you brake moderatly hard, that means that the pistons don't retract all of the way out to make up for the thinner worn pad. if you don't push the pistons back into the housings with a clamp or vice the new pads will be too thick to clear the rotor and they'll drag like your experiencing.
...
if you did that then i'm out of ideas
...
if you did that then i'm out of ideas
Ok well i pushed the pistons back in with the lid off the master then put the calipers on and put the cap back on the master cylinder. And now after all that they are still making alot of noise. Hardly any noise in the front but it is pretty bad in the back
Speaking of which (and I'm not trying to hijack the thread), but does anyone know if both star adjusters on the rear driver and pass. side are supposed to adjust OUT? I was looking at mine just the other day and the driver's side parking brake star adjuster didn't seem to move the piston out at all, but the pass. side did (and it was easy)...??