which shocks? need help
which shocks? need help ok my car is a dd with 90k miles on the clock with the stock shocks on it still.
i have been looking at some of the options out there and i dont know what to buy. im limited on budget so dont say konis. im looking for something that will improve all around handling, launch, control, ride, etc.
i plan on lowering my car in the future so i need some that will be compatible.
so all that being said which would suit my needs? kyb, bilstein, tokico
the tokico's seem like a pretty good deal but i dont see anybody using them. is there a reason to that? i was thinking about the kyb's but i dont know if they are any good for all around.
also i was thinking of doing the rears first then the front or should i just wait and do them together? would itdrive really weird with new good shocks in the rear and not the front or would it be ok?
any help would be great thanks
i have been looking at some of the options out there and i dont know what to buy. im limited on budget so dont say konis. im looking for something that will improve all around handling, launch, control, ride, etc.i plan on lowering my car in the future so i need some that will be compatible.
so all that being said which would suit my needs? kyb, bilstein, tokico
the tokico's seem like a pretty good deal but i dont see anybody using them. is there a reason to that? i was thinking about the kyb's but i dont know if they are any good for all around.
also i was thinking of doing the rears first then the front or should i just wait and do them together? would itdrive really weird with new good shocks in the rear and not the front or would it be ok?
any help would be great thanks
You can "get away" with bilstein and KYB on mild drop springs. Much lower than an inch is not advisable though so know this going in. I like bilstein better than KYB, the adjustment on KYB is easy but just does not adjust correctly IMO and the Bils have a better valving and build quality than you can get from KYB. Tokico is suppose to have a similar valving to Bilstein so they would be a good choice for stock ride height, not sure if they would hold up well with drop springs because again, the build quality is just not quite as good as Bilstein (This is what I hear, I have no personal experience with Tokico). If you decide to go with the Bilstein I'd suggest you talk to Strano about the ones he offers. I believe he is selling a set with the older valving which was more well suited to the car.
I know you don't want to spend the money, but this is the reality. Shocks are by far the single most important upgrade you can do for you car. I would almost say that Koni's with stock springs do a better job for everything you are asking than Bilstein and springs. You also can lower the front of the car 1/2" with Koni's without getting lowering springs (just use the lower perch) and do the hose mod in the rear to make it even. The other reason to get them is they are the only shock set that really properly damps the springs if you lower the car. So I suggest you wait and save up for Koni's even though you won't
. Good luck with whatever you decide on, no matter what it will be infinitely better than what you have.
I know you don't want to spend the money, but this is the reality. Shocks are by far the single most important upgrade you can do for you car. I would almost say that Koni's with stock springs do a better job for everything you are asking than Bilstein and springs. You also can lower the front of the car 1/2" with Koni's without getting lowering springs (just use the lower perch) and do the hose mod in the rear to make it even. The other reason to get them is they are the only shock set that really properly damps the springs if you lower the car. So I suggest you wait and save up for Koni's even though you won't
. Good luck with whatever you decide on, no matter what it will be infinitely better than what you have. I am in almost total agreement with tpunk. If you planning on lowering the car you have two choices Revalved Bilsteins or Konis. When you lower the car with springs, you will be messing with the valving range in the shock so it isnt recomended to do so on factory replacement shocks. If your just looking to save money and improve handling without messing with height, I would just get the factory bilstein hd's for around $400 and be done. Like tpunk said shocks are one fo the singe best things you can do to your suspension. Ofcourse after tires!!
tpunk and blilertwinkie are on the money....
Bilstein's will suit those needs fine and are way better quality than Tokico's and KYB's. But not ideal for lowering springs (though you can, the result is only as good as the weakest link in a combination).
The car isn't lowered now, so Bilstein's will be the call I'd make. Your only options that can do both lowering springs and stock springs and control both as Koni's or KYB AGX's. I sell both of them along with Bilstien and Tokico.... But I can tell you that I'd rather drive a stock sprung car on Koni's than a lowered one on AGX's in most cases (regardless of springs, including my own) because the shocks are what make the car work right above all else.
Bilstein's will suit those needs fine and are way better quality than Tokico's and KYB's. But not ideal for lowering springs (though you can, the result is only as good as the weakest link in a combination).
The car isn't lowered now, so Bilstein's will be the call I'd make. Your only options that can do both lowering springs and stock springs and control both as Koni's or KYB AGX's. I sell both of them along with Bilstien and Tokico.... But I can tell you that I'd rather drive a stock sprung car on Koni's than a lowered one on AGX's in most cases (regardless of springs, including my own) because the shocks are what make the car work right above all else.
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www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
i have bilstiens on my 00 slp ss and i did springs as well dropped the car about 1.8-1.9 in rides good handling has improved alot i really am pleased with the bilstiens.. im going to prolly do a coil over set up later but by that time i wont be driving my car every day and it will be more of a track tool than every day driver. but go for the bilstiens for the money you cant beat them. i meen idk i dont mind sacrificing ride for handling personally..lol but if i where to do shocks again id do konis but bilstiens work great for now.
As I often have to point out, it's all relative to one's sense of comparison. Many think their DeCarbon's with lowering springs ride great, there are those that feel Sportlines rock.....
I think it's wise to remember not just folks opinions (because they are wide and varied), but the context of the opinion (also wide and varied). And also what the intention of the valving is (stock? lower?).
I think it's wise to remember not just folks opinions (because they are wide and varied), but the context of the opinion (also wide and varied). And also what the intention of the valving is (stock? lower?).
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www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
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I have also found it best to get advice from those who have had more than one setup if at all possible. They tend to have more insight into the differences than those who have only had stock and 1 setup other than stock. Most quality, and even mediocre, aftermarket shocks with any springs will feel better than the garbage from the factory (1LE excluded). Even with aweful springs a setup with higher quality shocks will feel like a great improvement over stock, even if the shocks weren't designed for the task they have been put in.
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Staging Lane
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 73
Likes: 1
From: Carlsbad,CA
Listen to Sam! He knows! Why buy shocks twice when you dont have to! Per Sam, I am running Konis on stock springs,lower perch, and the hose mod. Couldnt be happier. Dont forget, youre also gonna have to do/pay for labor and they are kind of a pain.
I don't know about that time frame with rusted parts but if everything goes smoothly it's possible if you know what you are doing. Plan about 6 hours or more if this is your first time so you can figure stuff out and get rusted parts to break loose. You may have to go to the parts store in the middle of the job so make sure you have an extra vehicle to do that with. I've had sway bar endlinks break, upper shock mounts froze to the shock and all kinds of crap happen with installs. It's more than doable your self with spring compressors and normal hand tools and muscle as ls1whip stated. Just be ready for the typical "issues" to arise.
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 503
Likes: 54
From: TX
I dont mean to hijack your thread but I have a similar question. My Z28 has about 150K and still on the OE decarbons. I dont plan to lower it ever so I was curious as to what shock to go with. As much as I would like to go with the Konis, I cant spend that kind of cash right now. I was wanting to go with some sways also. I mostly do highway/interstate driving, and I like to keep the speed on the high side and do alot of weaving through slower cars. The OE shocks are getting kind of soft and the car seems to float around and dive more that it used to.
Bilstein HDs? KYBs? Tokicos?
Bilstein HDs? KYBs? Tokicos?
I think Bilsteins work great with stock springs. If I were to use anything other than Koni's on stock springs that is what I'd do. As for sways there are really two neutral combos out there, 32/19mm and 35/21 (or 35/22 if the 22 is hollow). If you are trying to stay cheap then a stock SS/WS6 hollow 32mm front bar is the way to go and just use your stock 19mm rear. Strano is always a good bet to call if you want to get the car to handle better.
A number of choices given stock springs. First thing is to remember that not all Bilsteins's are the same.... The way I sell them means you get a different rear shock valving than what everyone else sells as I really dislike the 'standard' valving for the 4th gen.
Tokico's would be fine for your needs, but they aren't much cheaper and are not nearly as durable.
AGX's can control the car, but you have the same issues as with the Tokico and you might not want to bother with adjustment.
I'd definitely start with the shocks, as yours are toasted and roasted. Then after you see the change you can decide if you want to mess with swaybars or if you are happy enough.
Tokico's would be fine for your needs, but they aren't much cheaper and are not nearly as durable.
AGX's can control the car, but you have the same issues as with the Tokico and you might not want to bother with adjustment.
I'd definitely start with the shocks, as yours are toasted and roasted. Then after you see the change you can decide if you want to mess with swaybars or if you are happy enough.
__________________
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
damn you for stealing my thread
thanks for everyones replys. im not really worried about install i work at a cadi dealer and have access to all kinds of tools and lifts. i have installed everything on my car my self including the clutch so i dont see these being a problem. plus i can get the techs to help if i run in to any problems.
so from what everyone is saying the konis or bilstiens are my best bet. so if i go with the bilstiens then lower later will there be a problem down the road? im talking like 20k miles or more. i want something that will last for a while. when i lower it i know im going with the strano springs. i have had slammed cars in the past and i dont plan on going that low with the ta.
sorry for all the ?'s but this is my first fbody just trying to learn what they respond well to. i dont like buying things twice.
thanks again for everyones help.
thanks for everyones replys. im not really worried about install i work at a cadi dealer and have access to all kinds of tools and lifts.
i have installed everything on my car my self including the clutch so i dont see these being a problem. plus i can get the techs to help if i run in to any problems.so from what everyone is saying the konis or bilstiens are my best bet. so if i go with the bilstiens then lower later will there be a problem down the road? im talking like 20k miles or more. i want something that will last for a while. when i lower it i know im going with the strano springs
. i have had slammed cars in the past and i dont plan on going that low with the ta. sorry for all the ?'s but this is my first fbody just trying to learn what they respond well to. i dont like buying things twice.
thanks again for everyones help.
What you seem to me missing is that shocks have valving, the valving controls the mass of the car and the energy stored in the springs. While the mass of the car doesn't change when you lower it, they rate and travel of the springs (which hold the mass up) does change. That then requires more damping to control the higher spring rate, the weight of the car, and do those things in a lesser amount of travel.
Will you have problems with lowering later on Bilstein's? Depends on your definition of problems. You'd be teaming spring rate and heights on shocks not meant for lowering springs, but for stock springs. Control, and often ride suffers when the shocks can't deal with a given job well, this is why the ride on a stock car gets worse with miles, not better. The shocks are overwhelmed and can't deal with damping even springs that they were *designed* for. Adding lowering springs to shocks not meant to deal with the lowering is basically like adding older, weaker shocks to a car on stock springs.
If you want to do it right, you don't want Bilstein's on a lowered car. You can do it, and folks do things all the time that maybe aren't the most well planned actions. It would be completely hateful as the Bilstein's at least won't be as bad as old trashed stock shocks. But as the shocks get miles, they have little to no wiggle room to get softer without underdamping the springs.
Will you have problems with lowering later on Bilstein's? Depends on your definition of problems. You'd be teaming spring rate and heights on shocks not meant for lowering springs, but for stock springs. Control, and often ride suffers when the shocks can't deal with a given job well, this is why the ride on a stock car gets worse with miles, not better. The shocks are overwhelmed and can't deal with damping even springs that they were *designed* for. Adding lowering springs to shocks not meant to deal with the lowering is basically like adding older, weaker shocks to a car on stock springs.
If you want to do it right, you don't want Bilstein's on a lowered car. You can do it, and folks do things all the time that maybe aren't the most well planned actions. It would be completely hateful as the Bilstein's at least won't be as bad as old trashed stock shocks. But as the shocks get miles, they have little to no wiggle room to get softer without underdamping the springs.
__________________
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
ok i get what you mean. looks like ill be saving for a little while to get the konis. im am for shure going to lower the car so that answers my ?.
so that being said if i go with the konis which ones would you recommend? 4/4 or 4/3. what is the differences between them? i see on your sight (strano) that the 4/3 are cheaper. is that only because they have to be adjusted off the car?
so that being said if i go with the konis which ones would you recommend? 4/4 or 4/3. what is the differences between them? i see on your sight (strano) that the 4/3 are cheaper. is that only because they have to be adjusted off the car?
4/3 rear shocks have to be removed to be adjusted, but also have only 4 pre-sets. You have to be in one of the 4 settings, which are full soft, +20, +50, +100% over full soft.
4/4 rears adjust on the car (easier and faster). And their adjustment allows you to be anywhere in the range you want to be. If you want to be say +30% stiffer, you can, +9%, you can... etc, etc. The result is that you don't run into trying two settings, but not being able to get in between and having to settle for more limited options.
4/4 rears adjust on the car (easier and faster). And their adjustment allows you to be anywhere in the range you want to be. If you want to be say +30% stiffer, you can, +9%, you can... etc, etc. The result is that you don't run into trying two settings, but not being able to get in between and having to settle for more limited options.
__________________
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
I like how everyone here gave an in depth reason why the OP should do one thing or another. I find that to be the most helpful.
I have to agree that the best insight is from someone that has run multiple setups. Thanks for the info guys. GL to OP, I hope you're happy with whatever choice you make
I have to agree that the best insight is from someone that has run multiple setups. Thanks for the info guys. GL to OP, I hope you're happy with whatever choice you make
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 503
Likes: 54
From: TX
A number of choices given stock springs. First thing is to remember that not all Bilsteins's are the same.... The way I sell them means you get a different rear shock valving than what everyone else sells as I really dislike the 'standard' valving for the 4th gen.
Tokico's would be fine for your needs, but they aren't much cheaper and are not nearly as durable.
AGX's can control the car, but you have the same issues as with the Tokico and you might not want to bother with adjustment.
I'd definitely start with the shocks, as yours are toasted and roasted. Then after you see the change you can decide if you want to mess with swaybars or if you are happy enough.
Tokico's would be fine for your needs, but they aren't much cheaper and are not nearly as durable.
AGX's can control the car, but you have the same issues as with the Tokico and you might not want to bother with adjustment.
I'd definitely start with the shocks, as yours are toasted and roasted. Then after you see the change you can decide if you want to mess with swaybars or if you are happy enough.