Upper A arm question (different one)
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,417
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From: Clear lake TX (From LaPorte)
Upper A arm question (different one) Ok I am swapping in a umi tubular k along with lower control arms, strange double adjusable's , all while swapping engine. Car is a 97 model, and noticed that some of the suspension components are starting to show signs of wear.
While dropping out the k member today, i noticed the upper A arms ball joints, rubber portion is starting to tear. I am not trying to get a tubular upper a arm, and really wanted to just replace the ball joints on both sides. Is this even possible with these? It seems like you would have to drill out rivets.
Tie rod ends look worn, along with sway bar end links hardware. I don't want to go with too much poly as I am afraid of too harsh/ noisy ride. I am not really even sure If I will be keeping sway bar up front, being this is a occasional street/strip car.
While dropping out the k member today, i noticed the upper A arms ball joints, rubber portion is starting to tear. I am not trying to get a tubular upper a arm, and really wanted to just replace the ball joints on both sides. Is this even possible with these? It seems like you would have to drill out rivets.
Tie rod ends look worn, along with sway bar end links hardware. I don't want to go with too much poly as I am afraid of too harsh/ noisy ride. I am not really even sure If I will be keeping sway bar up front, being this is a occasional street/strip car.
Ok I am swapping in a umi tubular k along with lower control arms, strange double adjusable's , all while swapping engine. Car is a 97 model, and noticed that some of the suspension components are starting to show signs of wear.
While dropping out the k member today, i noticed the upper A arms ball joints, rubber portion is starting to tear. I am not trying to get a tubular upper a arm, and really wanted to just replace the ball joints on both sides. Is this even possible with these? It seems like you would have to drill out rivets.
Tie rod ends look worn, along with sway bar end links hardware. I don't want to go with too much poly as I am afraid of too harsh/ noisy ride. I am not really even sure If I will be keeping sway bar up front, being this is a occasional street/strip car.
While dropping out the k member today, i noticed the upper A arms ball joints, rubber portion is starting to tear. I am not trying to get a tubular upper a arm, and really wanted to just replace the ball joints on both sides. Is this even possible with these? It seems like you would have to drill out rivets.
Tie rod ends look worn, along with sway bar end links hardware. I don't want to go with too much poly as I am afraid of too harsh/ noisy ride. I am not really even sure If I will be keeping sway bar up front, being this is a occasional street/strip car.
In order for you to replace your upper ball joints the rivets need to be removed, and replaced with a screw and bolt ball joint. You could always just replace the boot itself, but if it were me I would replace the whole ball joint.
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,417
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From: Clear lake TX (From LaPorte)
Hey thanks, do you know where to get those type parts? Do you think local stores have that?
They might, but just as a reference, Moog Chassis parts is one of the more common brands of Suspension ball joints, steering rack parts, bushings, mounts and the such.
AFA the upper A-arm bushings, Moog replacement rubber is good, or if you may find necessary, Sam Strano sells offset Delrin bushings. I wouldn't use poly in that location due to added stiction.
AFA replacing the swaybar-to-body bushings and swaybar endlinks, poly is OKAY in those locations since the bind IS optimal for the swaybar-to-body and endlink bushings.
AFA the upper A-arm bushings, Moog replacement rubber is good, or if you may find necessary, Sam Strano sells offset Delrin bushings. I wouldn't use poly in that location due to added stiction.
AFA replacing the swaybar-to-body bushings and swaybar endlinks, poly is OKAY in those locations since the bind IS optimal for the swaybar-to-body and endlink bushings.
Exact factory replacement:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=160286274059
FYI, a Die-grinder with a cut-off wheel takes the rivet heads off in no time!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=160286274059
FYI, a Die-grinder with a cut-off wheel takes the rivet heads off in no time!
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,417
Likes: 0
From: Clear lake TX (From LaPorte)
Ok thanks for the info guys. If you grind rivets out, do the new bolts have pins or something like that?
Also McQuay-Norris brand was a maker for the gm units? How did you find that out? (ebay link)
Also McQuay-Norris brand was a maker for the gm units? How did you find that out? (ebay link)
Last edited by 97LT1; Jan 19, 2009 at 12:49 AM.
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What I can say is if they're not listed under the McQuay-Norris brand, they're usually labeled under the "Spicer" brand (or under one of the "AffinaGroup, Inc." brands). Whilst not made by Moog, they're about the same pretty quality from my experience.
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