Hello 
Pulling to right when driving and left when braking
Pulling to right when driving and left when braking Hey guys. On my 99 Z28 I just did the SJM ABS delete kit and I put on some Summit Star wheels, 15 x 4 and 15 x 8. The car is now pulling to the right when driving down the road and it pulls to the left when braking. I don't remember it doing either of these before the wheels and ABS delete kit. Does anybody know what could be causing the car to pull to the side like this? Any thoughts? Thanks in advance.
Tire pressure on all tires is at 30 psi
The only bias control I have is between the front and rear, not side to side so this should not affect the car pulling to the side. The wheels I just had balanced and I watched the guy do it and according to the computer balancer they are in balance. The hung caliper is what I am thinking, I am going to replace both front calipers tomorrow, they are the originals with 100k + miles on them so I figure it can't be a bad idea. I am also going to get an alignment done on the front end and see where I am at after the alignment and 2 new calipers.
The only bias control I have is between the front and rear, not side to side so this should not affect the car pulling to the side. The wheels I just had balanced and I watched the guy do it and according to the computer balancer they are in balance. The hung caliper is what I am thinking, I am going to replace both front calipers tomorrow, they are the originals with 100k + miles on them so I figure it can't be a bad idea. I am also going to get an alignment done on the front end and see where I am at after the alignment and 2 new calipers.
Ahhh you didn't tell me that you got those wheels. I think it's the wheels. They weren't our Bogart wheels j/k.
I spoke with you earlier to give you a few tips. It's not going to be bias as that would be left/right issues which pressure and flow is equalized (as you also indicated).
Instead of purchasing new calipers, check the slide rails or any other area that could have particles on it preventing it from releasing. I'd imagine a caliper rebuild kit would be less expensive then purchasing new calipers.
Throw your other wheels on the car; this would remove uncertainty in wheel/tire issues. If you had an alignment recently, make sure they tightened all adjusters. Though unlikely since you only just noticed these issues after your changes, check your rod-ends and wheel bearings to make sure they do not have play in them.
Another thought is that you may have been having this issue for some time...but only noticed it now as you're more attentive to your braking system unless it's so obvious you could have never missed it.
I spoke with you earlier to give you a few tips. It's not going to be bias as that would be left/right issues which pressure and flow is equalized (as you also indicated).
Instead of purchasing new calipers, check the slide rails or any other area that could have particles on it preventing it from releasing. I'd imagine a caliper rebuild kit would be less expensive then purchasing new calipers.
Throw your other wheels on the car; this would remove uncertainty in wheel/tire issues. If you had an alignment recently, make sure they tightened all adjusters. Though unlikely since you only just noticed these issues after your changes, check your rod-ends and wheel bearings to make sure they do not have play in them.
Another thought is that you may have been having this issue for some time...but only noticed it now as you're more attentive to your braking system unless it's so obvious you could have never missed it.
Well I swapped the two front summit star wheels as the tires I have on them are not rotation specific and the problem with the car pulling right while driving down the road is gone.
I still have the problem with the car pulling left under braking though. I went ahead and replaced both front calipers, the stock ones were pretty hammered as the car has 130k miles on it. With the new calipers it still pulls left under braking though. I have been having a heck of a time getting the front passenger side banjo bolt to seal, I have two copper washers, one on both sides of the mating surface and I still had a very small seep and I thought that was why the car was pulling left, because not as much pressure was reaching the passenger side caliper because of the seep. However, now it appears I got it to seal and it is still pulling left so the only thing I can think of is maybe air in the system still. I am going to buy one of those pressure bleeders that pumps brake fluid into the master cylinder and bleeds them from the master cylinder to the caliper without having to pump the brakes, this way I can do it by myself and hopefully will get a better bleed on them.
Is it possible that my passenger side banjo bolt is still seeping air but I am not seeing any fluid?
Where is a good place to buy new front brake lines, the small line from the bracket to the caliper?
I still have the problem with the car pulling left under braking though. I went ahead and replaced both front calipers, the stock ones were pretty hammered as the car has 130k miles on it. With the new calipers it still pulls left under braking though. I have been having a heck of a time getting the front passenger side banjo bolt to seal, I have two copper washers, one on both sides of the mating surface and I still had a very small seep and I thought that was why the car was pulling left, because not as much pressure was reaching the passenger side caliper because of the seep. However, now it appears I got it to seal and it is still pulling left so the only thing I can think of is maybe air in the system still. I am going to buy one of those pressure bleeders that pumps brake fluid into the master cylinder and bleeds them from the master cylinder to the caliper without having to pump the brakes, this way I can do it by myself and hopefully will get a better bleed on them.
Is it possible that my passenger side banjo bolt is still seeping air but I am not seeing any fluid?
Where is a good place to buy new front brake lines, the small line from the bracket to the caliper?
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If your banjo bolt is still leaking or leaked, you will introduce air back into your brake system. Bleeding is rather simple now since you have no ABS. I'd use the two man method of bleeding. Have someone step on the brakes, open the valve, bleed, tighten then have him release the pedal. Repeat. No need to spend the extra money on a diaphram bleeder you'll use once every blue moon.
I don't like those earl bleeders...the check valve doesn't always work well. Gravity bleeding is too slow and doesn't always work well either.
I don't like those earl bleeders...the check valve doesn't always work well. Gravity bleeding is too slow and doesn't always work well either.
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Verdad Gallardo If your banjo bolt is still leaking or leaked, you will introduce air back into your brake system. Bleeding is rather simple now since you have no ABS. I'd use the two man method of bleeding. Have someone step on the brakes, open the valve, bleed, tighten then have him release the pedal. Repeat. No need to spend the extra money on a diaphram bleeder you'll use once every blue moon.
I don't like those earl bleeders...the check valve doesn't always work well. Gravity bleeding is too slow and doesn't always work well either.
I don't like those earl bleeders...the check valve doesn't always work well. Gravity bleeding is too slow and doesn't always work well either.
Yeah I bled the brakes again since I resolved the banjo bolt seal leaking but it is still pulling to the left. It makes me wonder if it is still leaking somehow and I am just not seeing fluid or if its still air in the system. I don't have a good person to help me bleed them using the pedal, my girlfriend tries but she just doesn't understand whats going on and I question that she is operating the pedal correctly. I know it seems a simple task but she has messed up simpler tasks before. Thats why I am just going to buy the motive power bleeder, take her out of the equation.
