Still pulling left when braking
#1
Still pulling left when braking
Ok, about 3 weeks ago I did an ABS delete on my 99 Z28. After the ABS delete while braking the car pulls left. I thought at first it was just air so I bled the brakes again, while bleeding I thought I found a leak on the passenger side caliper at the banjo bolt so I figured that not all the pressure was getting to the caliper and this was why it was pulling left. Well tonight I pulled the line and clean the mating surface real good where the line mounts to the caliper, there was all kinds of gunk in those little grooves. Well the mating surface is perfect now and I buttoned it all back up. I then bled the crap out of them with my motive power bleeder. Now I have no leaks, I have double and triple checked to make sure I have no fluid residue on any part of the banjo bolt area and I don't. Here is the problem, the car is still pulling left when braking. Any body else have any idea what it could be. I am starting to think its one of the lines up where the T's are for the ABS delete kit. I don't want to pull those fittings apart until I am sure though. Any thoughts?
#2
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pulling left definitely means it is an issue with the passenger front. either blockage in the line, collpsed rubber line, frozen caliper... just to name a few culprits... basically it is something preventing the passenger front caliper from applying equal pressure to the rotor as the driver side caliper... hope this helps...
#3
As B8SMANLT1 stated, check the rubber line leading to the right caliper. If the line is obstructed, flow could be impeded. If you've done anything like let the caliper hang by the rubber line or pinched it, it could damage the hose.
You can remove the exit fitting from the T-assembly. Look to see if something is blocking the port or if the flare that you created on the OEM line is deformed enough to impinge flow.
You can remove the exit fitting from the T-assembly. Look to see if something is blocking the port or if the flare that you created on the OEM line is deformed enough to impinge flow.
#4
Its not the rubber line. I removed it to clean up the mounting surfaces on the mounting block and the line looks fine. I have never let the caliper hang by the line or anything. I am willing to bet its the flare on that line. I took the car to a shop to have them do the flares and when I got the car back they all sucked. I ended up cutting all their flares off and re-flaring so tha they were right. That one line going to the passenger side front caliper is the only one that they did that I did not cut off because it was not leaking. I bet the flare sucks and the hole is very small or something. Looks like I will have to take that one line out of the T fitting and see whats going on with it.
#6
The rubber line is a straight shot right to the caliper with no twists or anything. I have completely replaced both front calipers just because the old ones had 130k miles on them and were pretty trashed. I did not have this problem before I did the ABS delete so its got to be related. I will probably pull that line apart tomorrow up by the MC where the T fitting is and see whats going on with it.
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#8
Alright I think I figured out the problem, hopefully Steve from SJM will post up and see what he thinks. I pulled both the front lines apart out of the T fitting. The flare that goes to the passenger side looks ok actually, however, the other one is the one that is wrong. It looks as though it only has a single flare on it. Because of this the hole is much larger. I am guessing that because that hole is much larger than the other line with the double flare that more pressure and fluid is hitting the driver side caliper which is causing it to pull to the left. Here are the pictures.
BTW the name of the shop I took the car too was Rocket Performance in Hampton, VA and its a Mustang shop. They obviously do not know what they are doing. When I got the car back all the flares were leaking and they told me it was good to go. I told them the brakes were mushy and they said it was air and that they needed bled again. I at least got my money back from them.
Here is the passenger side line and flare
and here is another one of it, side shot
and here is one of both of the lines and flares together, notice the difference in size of the holes.
BTW the name of the shop I took the car too was Rocket Performance in Hampton, VA and its a Mustang shop. They obviously do not know what they are doing. When I got the car back all the flares were leaking and they told me it was good to go. I told them the brakes were mushy and they said it was air and that they needed bled again. I at least got my money back from them.
Here is the passenger side line and flare
and here is another one of it, side shot
and here is one of both of the lines and flares together, notice the difference in size of the holes.
Last edited by tording99Z28; 02-25-2009 at 04:06 PM.
#9
That picture is really fuzzy looking but it does look like it's single flared. Did you create the first double flare? Cut the damaged one off and re-flare it. It's no good like that anyways.
#12
Yeah, the one that looked fine my friend and I did. The only flare that was left that the shop did was the one that I just redid because it was just a single flare. That shop sucked. Thats why I usually never take my car to anybody besides me.
Ok it is definitely better. If I don't hold the steering wheel at all when I hit the brakes it pulls left just slightly. If I am holding the wheel I don't even really notice it. Before it pulled pretty hard and I could feel it in the wheel and had to counter steer right to make up for it pulling left.
Ok it is definitely better. If I don't hold the steering wheel at all when I hit the brakes it pulls left just slightly. If I am holding the wheel I don't even really notice it. Before it pulled pretty hard and I could feel it in the wheel and had to counter steer right to make up for it pulling left.