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Removing Upper PHB

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Old Mar 19, 2009 | 02:41 AM
  #21  
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I have took it off most of the cars i have done i dont build dirt track or road coarse cars . Weight is weight . Those door bars and bumper supports are there for a reson does any one take them out??? I am with the mad folks on this one.
Originally Posted by mad_steve
We always remove the upper PHB. never had any problems, granted 50% of the time we're mini-tubbing these cars and the PHB bracket gets cut and reinforced. The other 50% we just remove the upper PHB and keep up truckin.
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Old Mar 19, 2009 | 07:42 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Magnet
Are these street cars or drag only?
drag and street
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Old Mar 20, 2009 | 10:43 PM
  #23  
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Interesting views in here.. mine may be coming off soon.
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Old Mar 23, 2009 | 10:55 AM
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Originally Posted by pmbmax
I have took it off most of the cars i have done i dont build dirt track or road coarse cars . Weight is weight . Those door bars and bumper supports are there for a reson does any one take them out??? I am with the mad folks on this one.
door bars and bumpers are not necessary for drag racing. We always have roll cages in these cars and replace the bumpers with bumper supports made of molly steel.
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Old Mar 25, 2009 | 02:00 PM
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If your car does not have a front swaybar and is primarily a drag car. You dont need it, There will not be enough side load put on it to matter.


If you road race, trackday, HPDE, or like on/off ramps at a fast pace...leave it on. Simple as that.
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Old Mar 25, 2009 | 02:32 PM
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I can't even really agree with that.... We've all seen cars at the track make a big move to center line or the wall that causes the driver to bail. I've even seen some corrections that caused the inside rear tire to come off the ground (which rarely happens when corner carving). While I agree there are not normally the same kind of lateral or side loads, there can be some big ones while drag racing.
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Old Mar 25, 2009 | 03:06 PM
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sam has a good point, but that being said, we havn't had any problems with removing these items.
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Old Mar 25, 2009 | 03:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Sam Strano
I can't even really agree with that.... We've all seen cars at the track make a big move to center line or the wall that causes the driver to bail. I've even seen some corrections that caused the inside rear tire to come off the ground (which rarely happens when corner carving). While I agree there are not normally the same kind of lateral or side loads, there can be some big ones while drag racing.
But its not a continuous left and right load like there is in HPDE etc. Maybe once in a while in a drag race situation. Streetdriving without a front swaybar is for sure gonnna limit cornering loads, especially with frontrunners. I just tool around in mine.
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Old Mar 25, 2009 | 03:31 PM
  #29  
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I know you all think that the GM engineers are stupid, and sometimes some dumb things end up on the cars. Like crappy shock valving for most of our tastes, but not for everyone's tastes. Some like the stock stuff, and overall the cars take not a lot of massaging to make a lot of folks very, very happy.

They don't put parts on *****-nilly, there are reasons for that brace. Obviously the car was not designed for road-racing only, but for street driving. De-engineering a car isn't exactly the way I like to go about modifying things and personally I'm not at all comfortable with taking that off. Maybe some are ok with it, but frankly I've read a lot of things that a lot of folks are ok with that I am not. YMMV.

IF you want to remove it, ok. I certainly can't stop you and to each his own. We'll just have to agree to disagree. I see you points, I'm sure you see mine.
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Old Mar 26, 2009 | 10:19 AM
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A while back I had removed mine, but whenever I drove on the highway the car seemed like it wanted to dance around a lot. I put it back on and haven't had the problem since then

I may try it again this year, but I didn't feel safe with it off..and this is coming from someone who drives the car everywhere with no front swaybar, skinnies, and M/T ET radials
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Old Mar 26, 2009 | 11:57 AM
  #31  
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if its your DD or you corner carve, HELL NO.
if its a weekend cruiser, or drag car, GET RID OF IT.
6.5 pounds weighed with hardware.

another note. next time you are under the car, adjust your panhard bar in and out and keep your eye on the brace.
just turning my panhard rod i can watch the brace flex back and forth.

mine is gone, FWIW, but its mostly weekend cruiser/track *****.
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Old Mar 26, 2009 | 11:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Strahley
A while back I had removed mine, but whenever I drove on the highway the car seemed like it wanted to dance around a lot. I put it back on and haven't had the problem since then

I may try it again this year, but I didn't feel safe with it off..and this is coming from someone who drives the car everywhere with no front swaybar, skinnies, and M/T ET radials
I took mine off and it drives exactly like it did with it on.

Are you taking the panhard bar ITSELF off?
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Old Mar 26, 2009 | 12:50 PM
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Originally Posted by FASTFATBOY
I took mine off and it drives exactly like it did with it on.

Are you taking the panhard bar ITSELF off?
god i hope not....
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Old Mar 26, 2009 | 01:01 PM
  #34  
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interesting... im thinking of trying it first.. anoybody here have it off and doing 10 sec in the 1/4? i would like to here feedback from them
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Old Mar 26, 2009 | 04:46 PM
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we have mid 8 second cars with stock suspension. None of them have the upper PHB installed.
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Old Mar 26, 2009 | 05:01 PM
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Originally Posted by mad_steve
we have mid 8 second cars with stock suspension. None of them have the upper PHB installed.
hmm, leaning more towards taking it off
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Old Mar 27, 2009 | 07:35 AM
  #37  
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Why would you take it off? You won't go any faster and you won't improve the handling. Somebody mentioned the TB coolant bypass which nets a few hp but the upper phb won't do anything special if it's off. If you want clearance for true duals like I do then maybe somebody can make just a regular bar like the lower phb to fit the upper one. I literally need a 1/2 inch clearance for the bassani x kit and I would be good. If somebody could make a straight bar that adjust then that would be ideal. There is no way I would ever spend over $200 to have a bent upper panhard bar when I know somebody could fab up a straight bar that's longer than the lower one and probably less than a hundred dollars. If it's for clearance, how much longer is the upper one compared to the lower one?
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Old Mar 27, 2009 | 07:46 AM
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Originally Posted by 1nverted
hmm, leaning more towards taking it off
If you're car is drag only, or see's little street time, then you'll be fine.
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Old Mar 27, 2009 | 10:44 AM
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Originally Posted by TJ
if its your DD or you corner carve, HELL NO.
if its a weekend cruiser, or drag car, GET RID OF IT.
6.5 pounds weighed with hardware.

another note. next time you are under the car, adjust your panhard bar in and out and keep your eye on the brace.
just turning my panhard rod i can watch the brace flex back and forth.

I added the bold. 6.5 pounds, not a lot of weight to start with. The key being exactly what TJ said (and I bolded). If you can watch the mount flex just by adjusting the PHB by hand does anyone really believe it doesn't move a good bit more when the car applies pressure? How can anyone think that's a good, or not bad, thing? This will effect the stability of the car, no doubt about it.
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