rear end not centered

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Staging Lane

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rear end not centered

I had the car 2 years ago running 11.8@117 with 1.7x's 60's. over that winter I added a body mount torque arm, and sway bars. Went out and was pulling 1.7x's again. At this time I started pulling 12.0's. Thinking it needed more power I changed the cam and realized that my slicks were bald.

A few weeks later I blow my motor, and installed a iron 6.0. Now the rearend is sitting a inch from the front of the fenders. The only thing that sucks is my lower control arms are non adj. The rearend is a moser 9" with 3.89 gears, bilisteins in rear only, lakewood panhard and controll arms, reloction brackets set at middle hole (stock springs) and the sway bars (front and rear). The rest of the front susp. is stock.

So my questions are:

Anyone have this problem? Any ideas what causes this? Any body have a setup like this and if so what kind of 60's do you get on dr's/slicks?

thanks

Apr 7, 2009 | 06:10 AM

leadfoot4

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Is the front end of the car sitting lower? It might be, as you put a heavier block in the car, which in turn caused the rear to "pivot" a little, around the LCAs, which may have caused the change in the distance between the tires and fenders.

Apr 7, 2009 | 07:23 AM

UMI Sales

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Here's a Suggestion!

Hello
When people have this problem with the rear tires not centering up and they are using a aftermarket rear we recommend a adjustable control arms to allow you to recenter the rear! If you have any other questions feel free to ask and I will be glad to help!
Thanks
Brad

Apr 7, 2009 | 09:36 AM

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From: Seffner, FL

Like leadfoot said, does the rear of the car sit higher than it did with the old motor? If so then that might be what the problem is. It also would be more pronounced with the relocation brackets on the car.

Try putting some weight in the rear of the car and see if that moves the tires back at all.

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Apr 7, 2009 | 01:13 PM

Thread Starter

Staging Lane

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Thanx for the input. I just got done putting lowering spring in the rear only to try and see if it would move back. Didn't help. The front of the car doesn't/didn't look lower but the steering did get some play in it. Before the motor there was no play. Really looking at adj. controll arms now and should I get qa1 24 ways with the 325 springs for the front?

Apr 7, 2009 | 02:31 PM

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From: Seffner, FL

Is the car primarily used for drag racing or handling?

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Apr 7, 2009 | 11:19 PM

Formula_Power

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do you have an adjustable panhard?? If so make sure it is set to the stock length (if car has not been lowered) and panhard rod that is too long or short will move the rear to the left or right of center

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Apr 8, 2009 | 08:12 AM

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From: Seffner, FL

Quote:

Originally Posted by Formula_Power

Im pretty sure hes talking about the wheel not centered in the fender.

Quote:

Originally Posted by stock01ws6

dailly driver. go to track to play round, just tring to look stock wilth wheels. tried springs i had found ln the garage. it didn't help.

Yeah the QA1s with the 325 springs would be good but you might look at the 300s for a street strip car.

You figure anything out with the axle? Seems weird that lowering the back didnt help and it changed after swapping the motor

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Apr 10, 2009 | 04:47 AM

#10

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Staging Lane

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It could have changed when I did the clutch. I readjusted the torque arm. I have had a problem with a driveline noise when I put the torque arm in. I found out that measured the pinion angel wrong by checking it off the torque arm bottom plate. I was off alot. The driveline was at 5 degrees pos. and the pinion was 7 neg before. Now it is 2 degrees on the driveline and the pinion has 4. That is when I really noticed the problem. The only reason I checked the driveline angal was that I saw the front lowered. I am looking at adj. controll arms now.

The reason I was looking at the 325 spring with the qa1's was do to the extra weight of the motor. How much will the weight change the spring rate between the too?

Apr 10, 2009 | 08:31 AM

#11

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From: Seffner, FL

Quote:

Originally Posted by stock01ws6

The reason I was looking at the 325 spring with the qa1's was do to the extra weight of the motor. How much will the weight change the spring rate between the too?

Oh yeah I forgot about that, you would be fine with the 325s then.

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Apr 10, 2009 | 09:14 AM

#12

koolaid_kid

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Whenever you install aftermarket parts, always install adjustable ones. Ignore sponsors who suggest otherwise. With adjustable LCAs, you could have easily fixed this issue.

Apr 10, 2009 | 09:47 AM

#13

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From: Seffner, FL

Quote:

Originally Posted by koolaid_kid

Whenever you install aftermarket parts, always install adjustable ones. Ignore sponsors who suggest otherwise. With adjustable LCAs, you could have easily fixed this issue.

Thats why if anything we make is available adjustable, I suggest it.

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Apr 10, 2009 | 03:30 PM

#14

koolaid_kid

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Quote:

Originally Posted by BMR Sales2

Thats why if anything we make is available adjustable, I suggest it.

An excellent idea. Some sponsors do not, to my great dismay. Obviously, I can't name names, but BMR is not one of them.

Apr 10, 2009 | 03:37 PM

#15

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Quote:

Originally Posted by koolaid_kid

An excellent idea. Some sponsors do not, to my great dismay. Obviously, I can't name names, but BMR is not one of them.

Better to have it and not need it then........not be able to fix a problem due to variances in aftermarket parts

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Aug 4, 2009 | 04:44 PM

#16