abs delete??????
Oh ya, I forgot, but I think it's only one line that needs to be flared if you get the kit.
I done it both ways, and I just think the kit's convenience makes it worth the price. you get all the fittings and lines pre-bent, a tee, prop valve etc
I done it both ways, and I just think the kit's convenience makes it worth the price. you get all the fittings and lines pre-bent, a tee, prop valve etc
Or if money is an issue get a factory combination valve from a 2nd or 3rd gen T/A or 1 that had rear disc if that's what You have now , or if You don't , maybe You can find a car with the rear disc set up . Switching to rear discs would also take care of the mechanical part of the ABS removal . The factory comb valve is a good idea because it's a proportioning valve , a safety valve , and an alert . Good luck
Bumping the thread. I know theres some pics of the kit around here. If some of you guys mind posting or sharing some tips on the install that would be nice for a future reference. I'll be ordering my kit soon
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Launching!
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 207
Likes: 0
Here's a few installed images of various kits:
SJMABSDeleteKitInstalled.jpg?t=1242090695
ABSDelete.jpg?t=1242090695
I would highly suggest NOT using a pre-set proportioning valve configured for a different vehicle. Your brakes are not the same, the components are not the same, weight distribution is not the same...its a completely different car. That would be like taking a cam from a 2-3 gen Camaro and trying to use it for your car. You've got about as much chance of the bias being correct as probably hitting the lottery.
For the do it yourself guys, we can offer customers the components so they can "design" their own kit install if they do not like our configuration. We can create the bubble flares for you so that is one less tool you'll need.
Realistically, a kit saves you time and aggravation. For the guys wanting to purchase parts to "save money", it is not for the faint of heart if you've never bent or flared lines. You'll need many tools including a bubble and double flare tool. It is not a $$ savings mod.
SJMABSDeleteKitInstalled.jpg?t=1242090695
ABSDelete.jpg?t=1242090695
I would highly suggest NOT using a pre-set proportioning valve configured for a different vehicle. Your brakes are not the same, the components are not the same, weight distribution is not the same...its a completely different car. That would be like taking a cam from a 2-3 gen Camaro and trying to use it for your car. You've got about as much chance of the bias being correct as probably hitting the lottery.
For the do it yourself guys, we can offer customers the components so they can "design" their own kit install if they do not like our configuration. We can create the bubble flares for you so that is one less tool you'll need.
Realistically, a kit saves you time and aggravation. For the guys wanting to purchase parts to "save money", it is not for the faint of heart if you've never bent or flared lines. You'll need many tools including a bubble and double flare tool. It is not a $$ savings mod.
Launching!
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 207
Likes: 0
There's two ways you can install the kit on the LS1, if the engine is in the car, the easiest method it to leave the braided lines affixed. Regardless if the engine is in or not...you're not working around it. If you remove the braided lines, it can be a bit more time consuming to install.
Both method of installs are discussed in the direction sheets.
Both method of installs are discussed in the direction sheets.
There's two ways you can install the kit on the LS1, if the engine is in the car, the easiest method it to leave the braided lines affixed. Regardless if the engine is in or not...you're not working around it. If you remove the braided lines, it can be a bit more time consuming to install.
Both method of installs are discussed in the direction sheets.
Both method of installs are discussed in the direction sheets.
Launching!
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 207
Likes: 0
It's about a 2 hour job. Since I've done them before, it takes me personally about 1 hour from start to finish for a complete kit. How much time is too much of a hassle?
Most of the time involved is bleeding your brakes and running the electrical portion of the line lock (if you do not have an electrical system installed for one).
Most of the time involved is bleeding your brakes and running the electrical portion of the line lock (if you do not have an electrical system installed for one).
It's about a 2 hour job. Since I've done them before, it takes me personally about 1 hour from start to finish for a complete kit. How much time is too much of a hassle?
Most of the time involved is bleeding your brakes and running the electrical portion of the line lock (if you do not have an electrical system installed for one).
Most of the time involved is bleeding your brakes and running the electrical portion of the line lock (if you do not have an electrical system installed for one).
Launching!
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 207
Likes: 0
If you have a line lock installed..one of the most time consuming parts is done...running the electrical portion of the kit.
There is a few lines that you need to flare...that would be the connections to your stock lines that's all. All other bubble and double inverted flares and lines formed are completed.
Flaring, some find it very difficult, some easy. Where you lie, I wouldn't know. I can tell you a line can be flared in under 2 minutes. I find it very simple using the tools we provide. We have videos for our customers if they need them...which is 90 seconds long from start to finish..using the exact tool you receive. There are probably youtube videos as well.
I don't view flaring as something technically challenging...but that is me. If the tube is prepped correctly and you follow the directions it's rather easy. ....some would argue that one though.
There is a few lines that you need to flare...that would be the connections to your stock lines that's all. All other bubble and double inverted flares and lines formed are completed.
Flaring, some find it very difficult, some easy. Where you lie, I wouldn't know. I can tell you a line can be flared in under 2 minutes. I find it very simple using the tools we provide. We have videos for our customers if they need them...which is 90 seconds long from start to finish..using the exact tool you receive. There are probably youtube videos as well.
I don't view flaring as something technically challenging...but that is me. If the tube is prepped correctly and you follow the directions it's rather easy. ....some would argue that one though.
If you have a line lock installed..one of the most time consuming parts is done...running the electrical portion of the kit.
There is a few lines that you need to flare...that would be the connections to your stock lines that's all. All other bubble and double inverted flares and lines formed are completed.
Flaring, some find it very difficult, some easy. Where you lie, I wouldn't know. I can tell you a line can be flared in under 2 minutes. I find it very simple using the tools we provide. We have videos for our customers if they need them...which is 90 seconds long from start to finish..using the exact tool you receive. There are probably youtube videos as well.
I don't view flaring as something technically challenging...but that is me. If the tube is prepped correctly and you follow the directions it's rather easy. ....some would argue that one though.
There is a few lines that you need to flare...that would be the connections to your stock lines that's all. All other bubble and double inverted flares and lines formed are completed.
Flaring, some find it very difficult, some easy. Where you lie, I wouldn't know. I can tell you a line can be flared in under 2 minutes. I find it very simple using the tools we provide. We have videos for our customers if they need them...which is 90 seconds long from start to finish..using the exact tool you receive. There are probably youtube videos as well.
I don't view flaring as something technically challenging...but that is me. If the tube is prepped correctly and you follow the directions it's rather easy. ....some would argue that one though.
^ Ya I know.
Anyways you can just buy some 3/16 and 1/4 brake line from any parts store. These will be the new lines that go from the master cylinder. You will need to cut the factory brake lines and get the nuts off that screw into the master cylinder. Re-use them bc they are a bastard size on the new brake lines you bought.
The REAR supply from the master cylinder will go to the line lock, then out to a "T" then to the front calipers.
The Front supply from master cylinder will go to the wilwood proportion valve. Then the factory rear brake lines just screw into the prop valve.
All done. Just don't forget to double flare everything.
Anyways you can just buy some 3/16 and 1/4 brake line from any parts store. These will be the new lines that go from the master cylinder. You will need to cut the factory brake lines and get the nuts off that screw into the master cylinder. Re-use them bc they are a bastard size on the new brake lines you bought.
The REAR supply from the master cylinder will go to the line lock, then out to a "T" then to the front calipers.
The Front supply from master cylinder will go to the wilwood proportion valve. Then the factory rear brake lines just screw into the prop valve.
All done. Just don't forget to double flare everything.
I bought a Wilwood 2 in/3 out proportioning valve to do my setup, no cheap looking "T"s. I should have pics in a week or 2 of my setup, I'm having my brother do the lines since he's the brake line pro haha
