johnster

iTrader: (27)

is there any way to delete the abs without buying the 250 dollar kit????

WS6TransAm01

iTrader: (13)

+1

VTC_WS6

iTrader: (9)

Pull the fuse or disconnect the ABS modulator.

Ericbigmac83

iTrader: (19)

if you don't use a proportioning valve or add a line lock you can make new lines yourself for pretty cheap

johnster

iTrader: (27)

explain alittle more,,, got any pics? will the breaks work rite???

Ericbigmac83

iTrader: (19)

The brakes will work ok, you'll just have a 50:50 brake bias which isn't ideal. All you need is a T to split the front line to the left and right side. then you need to just make new lines from the master cylinder to where the old brake lines connected to the ABS module.

Sounds simple. its not

johnster

iTrader: (27)

thanks man ant other info???

Ericbigmac83

iTrader: (19)

yea, call sjm and order the kit, lol

waterbug1999

iTrader: (3)

You can get the LL and a wilwood proprtion valve and run/flare your own hose.. I bought the SJM kit and ended up redoing it.

This was a pic of my stand alone, but you can see the brake lines pretty good though.

fastsspr

iTrader: (49)

I like more info. in this topic. I going to delete my abs looking for more space in the engine compartment and make the car ligther.

FiredUpZ28

Yea that 2 lb ABS block is weighin that sumb!tch DOWN!

Asian LSX

iTrader: (4)

Anybody use the Burkhart ABS Delete block? Curious as to how that compares to the SJM.

Big Al

iTrader: (1)

Will pulling the fuse kill ABS on a 95 Z-28? I'm planning a S-60 rear end swap and want to do away with the rear ABS sensor.

Al

02 Z-28
95 Z-28
73 Z-28

fastsspr

iTrader: (49)

Were you can find that abs delete kit?
any link thanks.

Duffster

iTrader: (103)

this has lasted in the internal section for how long?

bjamick

iTrader: (31)

^ Ya I know.

Anyways you can just buy some 3/16 and 1/4 brake line from any parts store. These will be the new lines that go from the master cylinder. You will need to cut the factory brake lines and get the nuts off that screw into the master cylinder. Re-use them bc they are a bastard size on the new brake lines you bought.

The front supply from the master cylinder will go to the line lock, then out to a "T" then to the front calipers.

The rear supply from master cylinder will go to the wilwood proportion valve. Then the factory rear brake lines just screw into the prop valve.

All done. Just don't forget to double flare everything.

jt76

iTrader: (10)

Weighs a lot more than 2lbs Plus opens up a lot of space in the engine bay.

Pocket

iTrader: (22)

Can always use a 3rd gen prop valve. Its very compact vs the 4th gen ABS module. We've used LS1 F&R brakes with the stock 1Le prop valve for years

ShevrolayZ28

iTrader: (4)

It's nice to have the block but a tee fitting can be used instead. IMO the best bet is to just get the SJM kit and be done with it. By the time you're done running around and collecting all the parts and tools to make the lines yourself, you've probably wasted enough time to make the SJM kit a better value. Just my two cents...

Dirty Vegas

iTrader: (12)

Even with the SJM kit, you still have to flare your own lines.