Alignment machine adjusters damage wheels?
Alignment machine adjusters damage wheels? Anyone that has used the Hunter machine can you tell me how it is possible to damage the lip of wheels with the things that put on your wheels for the lasers. He told me they would be placed on the outside of the wheels on the tires themselves. I have press marks where the lip is flattened in 4 places. I have to go back to the shop and am not real happy about the damage. He knows I am particular about my wheels but I don't know if he let the alignment guy know to be careful.
What kind of rims do you have? I use a Hunter machine and I can't imagine how they would cause indent marks on the rims, the guy must have really tighten them down. The most I would think they could do is chip the paint if you happen to have painted rims.
they would have had to crank the living hell out of the laser mounts to damage the wheels.probably had the laser mounts mounted incorrectly.there is a couple different ways to install the mounts on the wheel depending on the lip design.
That's what I'm thinking or maybe the rims material is really soft? I have never damaged a rim doing an alignment.
Never have I seen a rim that is that soft.You have used the machine and so have I and we both know it doesnt take much clamping force to get the lasers mounted if their being installed correctly.
They are GM SLP ZR1's chrome. Two wheels have these places. I just washed the wheels Thursday night and nothing was there. I went to the shop Saturday. Some how the spades must have done the damage. It is just pressed in about 1 inch in length. I am going to let the service manager know for sure. I was not expecting any damage. I even asked before hand and he knows I am picky about my wheels. I just don't want it to happen again so I was trying to figure out what could have happened so we can address it.
sounds like they mounted to the inside rim edge and not around the tire. most shops do not have the tire wount adapters. they use the standard mount (inside lip mounting) instead of fingers to clamp to the outside of the wheel lip. i own two hunter alignment machines. on aluminum wheels, it doesn't take a whole lot of force to make an indentation.
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My steering wheel is slightly off center as I am driving straight down the road. Would they have to put those adapters on my wheels again to adjust the steering wheel to make it straight? I will have to talk to the service manager about what happened to make sure next time the guy has the right equipment and puts them in the right place. He told me he would put them on the tire and not the wheels. From what I have seen the metal pointers should not touch the wheel at all except for maybe on the backside of the lip. The wheels were mint condition too with no blemishes before this.
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yes, they will need to put the heads back on and redo the toe setting to recenter the wheel. tell them to use the fingers instead of direct mounting to the inside lip of the wheel.
My steering wheel is slightly off center as I am driving straight down the road. Would they have to put those adapters on my wheels again to adjust the steering wheel to make it straight? I will have to talk to the service manager about what happened to make sure next time the guy has the right equipment and puts them in the right place. He told me he would put them on the tire and not the wheels. From what I have seen the metal pointers should not touch the wheel at all except for maybe on the backside of the lip. The wheels were mint condition too with no blemishes before this.
If, by any chance, you have access to a good dial indicator and stand, you can make that adjustment at home. Jack the car, set the dial indicator against the tire, loosen the tie rod jam nut, being careful not to move the tie rod itself, "zero" the indicator, then lenghten or shorten the tie rod, depending on what side of the car you're on, and which way you need to turn the steering wheel. Start with a 0.010" change. Go to the other side, move the wheel 0.010" in the same direction as the first. Road test, and if not enough change, repeat with another 0.010".
Sorry to hear that you're having SO MUCH trouble getting something as simple as an alignment done correctly!
So doing that will not affect the toe adjustment they have set already will it? Does it matter that my steering wheel is not straight as far as the alignment being correct or is it just a nuisance.
Doing that will change the toe adjustment they set, but if you make small adjustments, chances are that youll still be within spec for the vehicle. There is a tolerance, and if they are good about what they do, they put both the front wheels in the middle of that tolerance. The steering wheel might have been slightly off while they were adjusting it. Front toe adjustments will even out as you drive down the road. So.... If one of the wheels is slightly off, the other will move in or out slightly as you drive to compensate, this moves everything in your steering system together and gives you an off-center steering wheel. For example, if the left front toe is set to 1 degree, and the right front is set for 2 degrees, when your driving, the rack and pinion will shift the wheels slightly and your toe reading will be 1.5 degrees on each wheel, with a crooked steering wheel. This is why its so important to make sure the wheel is perfectly straight, locked, and toe is adjusted to the exact same reading on both wheels. hope this helps. And yes, sounds like they used the wheel adapters with the metal claws that grasp the lip of the rim, and thats what left your indentations, Ive seen it done many times.
Yeah, it doesn't take much force to clamp the heads on the rims.
Do you happen to have any pictures of the damaged rims?
The stering wheel being off, could be two things . .
It is just off center and a nuisance . . .
The alignment is WRONG and the you have to turn the wheel to force the car to drive straight . . .
I find it astonishing that a reputable shop could even let a car leave after an alignment with a crooked wheel . . . at least I hope they told you "why" the wheel is crooked . . .
Was the wheel crooked before the alignment? . . . If not there is NO excuse for this.
Seems like you have bad luck with the service centers down in your area . . . I followed you thread in W&T's on the tire issue . . . .
It is just off center and a nuisance . . .
The alignment is WRONG and the you have to turn the wheel to force the car to drive straight . . .
I find it astonishing that a reputable shop could even let a car leave after an alignment with a crooked wheel . . . at least I hope they told you "why" the wheel is crooked . . .
Was the wheel crooked before the alignment? . . . If not there is NO excuse for this.
Seems like you have bad luck with the service centers down in your area . . . I followed you thread in W&T's on the tire issue . . . .
Yes I have had some bad luck. I finally went to the place where I got the tires rebalancedhoping since they sell these tire brand I have that I could get it straightened out. The steering wheel was maybe off a little when I took it in. Not as much as now. About 1 inch off probably. The service manager said the steering wheel is more of a nuisance since it is driving better than before. I have been to 3 alignment shops now in the last few months. I am trying to get my tires to wear well. The car was way off from the trip to the 2nd alignment shop last week. He set the toe at 7 positve on one side and -.1 on the other side. My car was driving really bad then.
If you're referring to my comment about using a dial indicator, no, it won't affect the toe setting, as long as you move BOTH wheels in the same direction, AND the same amount.
I'm really **** about having my steering wheel "straight up" and I've done this adjustment several times, over the years.
As an example, if your wheel is cocked to the right, an inch, as you mentioned, that means that the car's wheels would be "turned left" when the steering wheel is "straight up". In order to compensate, you need to move both wheels "right" by an equal amount, until the steering wheel is in the correct orientation.
You'd do this by "shortening" the left tie rod adjustment, and lenghtening the right tie rod by an equal amount. If your wheel is off that much, I'd guess that you'd have to make about a 60-70 thousandths of an inch adjustment, if you happen to want to do this yourself, with a dial indicator.
Yes I have had some bad luck. I finally went to the place where I got the tires rebalancedhoping since they sell these tire brand I have that I could get it straightened out. The steering wheel was maybe off a little when I took it in. Not as much as now. About 1 inch off probably. The service manager said the steering wheel is more of a nuisance since it is driving better than before. I have been to 3 alignment shops now in the last few months. I am trying to get my tires to wear well. The car was way off from the trip to the 2nd alignment shop last week. He set the toe at 7 positve on one side and -.1 on the other side. My car was driving really bad then.
I am going back to the place to have the alignment looked at again. I saw the adapters they used and they look like fingers kind of a hook. There is not alot of distance on the spades until you reach metal. I told him when I come back we can look at how they go on to make sure and he said okay. I don't want any more damage for sure. Is there anyone else that has had this happen?
yeah, i've done it on my own wheels. for me, it's not a big deal. can barely see it. i'm just as picky. guess it's from being a mechanic all these years and know crap happens. they do make teflon coated fingers.
these are like flattened spots and you can see them when you step back because the lip is distorted and not round anymore. I have never had an alignment shop do this to my wheels before.