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UMI bolt-in LCA relocation brackets moved rear back 1/2" *pics*

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Old 06-22-2009, 08:28 AM
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Originally Posted by UMI Sales
Hello
Their is nothing wrong with the hole locations in the relocation brackets! We recommend our customers to call in and talk to our tech department due to it being less confusing to explain rather than typing. If you still do not get it after the call we recommend to send them back we will test fit them like we do in the past and if they are fine then we send them back to you! If anyone has any questions feel free to give Jerry or I a call and we will be more than glad to help!
Thanks
Brad
Brad, as stated, I have bought UMI for my last car and was very satisfied and will more than likely still be buying UMI in the future because I believe you make a sound product.
I will be calling the tech department out of shear curiousity to see what they have to say about these brackets, because to me I don't see what the magic trick is to installing these brackets.
Also, just a side note:
Since there have been so many issues, you might think about taking the time to type out better directions with very good illustrations that shows the secret for intalling the brackets correctly and perhaps post it up. Of course I have yet to see a post where the person having this problem has said; "I called the tech line and I found out what I did wrong." Of course if I am wrong and there is one, please let me know.

James
Old 06-22-2009, 09:06 AM
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I called and this is what I was told.

When installing the brackets, before you put any bolts in, get the relocation bracket in postion onto the stock LCA mount and swing the control arm from the lowest hole of the relocation bracket up to the stock factory hole and make sure the holes all align. He did say that they typically unbolt the sway bar and loosen the TA bolts so that there is no tension to make the rear-end want to move.

This is sound logic and I am debating whether or not I really want to crawl back under and test this out, because judging by the bracket and what needs to happen I just don't think it can be made to happen. I don't doubt they can get them to line up and work, however I now think that the weld in brackets are probably the best best if you get these, since you can adjust them perfectly then weld them in place and not worry about the shock mount to mess with it.

I also do realize that by not being willing to try it again, that I am basically giving up any kind of right to say they don't work or do work, I am now a neutral party on this matter because I can neither prove nor disprove the functionality of these brackets.
However, hopefully someone else will try these instructions and report back if it fixed there problem or not.

James

Last edited by Dr. Jeckel; 06-22-2009 at 09:13 AM.
Old 06-22-2009, 09:50 PM
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Well, the relocation brackets apparently were not the culprit behind the vibration. I took the car out today and at 45mph it vibrates the whole car. I will be taking the DS to get checked for balance tomorrow and try to figure it out.
Old 06-22-2009, 10:24 PM
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Here...hope this helps anyone who might need it. It's all been gone over.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...-centered.html
Old 06-23-2009, 12:43 AM
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I am very confused. I thought you needed adjustable control arm to use these. I installed the weld in BMR brackets this past weekend, by mounting the back face of the bracket to the original bracket on my 12 bolt, then adjusted the lower control arms to fit the increased distance between the mount and the frame. If this was wrong, BMR your instructions SUCK. My wheels are centered, but the welds are permanent.
Old 06-23-2009, 04:09 AM
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Originally Posted by kny3twalker
I am very confused. I thought you needed adjustable control arm to use these. I installed the weld in BMR brackets this past weekend, by mounting the back face of the bracket to the original bracket on my 12 bolt, then adjusted the lower control arms to fit the increased distance between the mount and the frame. If this was wrong, BMR your instructions SUCK. My wheels are centered, but the welds are permanent.
That's the catch.
Old 06-23-2009, 09:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Dr. Jeckel
Well, the relocation brackets apparently were not the culprit behind the vibration. I took the car out today and at 45mph it vibrates the whole car. I will be taking the DS to get checked for balance tomorrow and try to figure it out.
Do you have a way to measure your pinion angle? If this is off, it may be amplifying any NVH in the drivetrain.
Originally Posted by kny3twalker
I am very confused. I thought you needed adjustable control arm to use these. I installed the weld in BMR brackets this past weekend, by mounting the back face of the bracket to the original bracket on my 12 bolt, then adjusted the lower control arms to fit the increased distance between the mount and the frame. If this was wrong, BMR your instructions SUCK. My wheels are centered, but the welds are permanent.
The brackets are designed in a way that works with stock length, non-adjustable control arms. The holes are drilled on an arc that allows the LCA to swing from one to the next without requiring re-alignment. The problem seems to be that people are experiencing installation issues (especially with the weld-in brackets) that cause the holes to no longer remain aligned, causing the axle to be pushed towards the rear of the car. I have only worked with the weld-in brackets, not the bolt-in, so I'm not sure if the bot-ins are experiencing this same issue or not.

If the shop bolted the brackets to the car and installed the LCAs before welding, I don't see how these problems could continue since everything would be lined up with the stock parts before welding. My problem is that the shop seems to have unbolted both LCAs and dropped the rear, welded the brackets in the wrong location, and then reinstalled the axle. The brackets were not located in the correct position, placing the axle in a different location when it was reinstalled (about 3/4" to the rear). I have adjustable LCAs, so I just need to get under it and shorten them. I am not happy about my situation but if I did not already have the LCAs I would be pissed!
Old 06-23-2009, 06:15 PM
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it would be cool if UMI threw a video up of the installation.
Old 06-23-2009, 07:39 PM
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Originally Posted by spy2520
it would be cool if UMI threw a video up of the installation.
I was thinking the same thing...doesn't have to be a full length vid, just showing the critical points of this installation. It doesn't even have to be tomorrow or anything like that, but next time they do an install of these bolt-in brackets.

Last edited by Dr. Jeckel; 06-23-2009 at 07:46 PM.
Old 06-23-2009, 11:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Dr. Jeckel
I was thinking the same thing...doesn't have to be a full length vid, just showing the critical points of this installation. It doesn't even have to be tomorrow or anything like that, but next time they do an install of these bolt-in brackets.
exactly. I actually will be doing mine tomorrow though.
Old 06-24-2009, 02:02 PM
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ok i just finished mine. And i measured before and after, i had about 2 3/8" space in front of each wheel, and i finished with 2 3/8" space in front of each wheel. I dont think its the brackets.

I did have to beat on it a little to get it into position on the shock mount, i dont know if its due to rust or tight clearances but with the upper bolt in its hole, it was hard to line it up with the hole on the shock mount. I could get the bolt through, but it was sitting up a little high, which would have caused it to push the rear back if it were bolted up like that.
Old 06-24-2009, 02:23 PM
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Thanks for the results spy, do you think it would be possible to push the rear back 3/4" with the bolt-in style? If your clearances are so tight that you had to coerce them in place with a hammer, I'm guessing not.
Old 06-24-2009, 04:06 PM
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i'm just saying it could possibly be bolted in at the wrong angle for the simple fact that the hole for the shock is bigger than the hole on the mount, leaving a little room to mess around with. Wouldnt be off that much, but could make a difference once everything is in place.
Old 06-24-2009, 05:12 PM
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I do wonder if the hole being bigger and the bolt being smaller, that even if you get it lined up correctly and tightened as hard as you can, if it wouldn't move over time, after some hard launches.

I am glad you got yours to work though.

Could you snap a couple pics of the brackets mounted....not real sure if you could say any thing different but it might be nice just to see.
Old 06-24-2009, 05:50 PM
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I installed mine(UMI bolt ins) w/o any problems. Both wheels were centered after all said and done. They were used pair from UMI to be exact, and probably a return from a customer.
Old 06-24-2009, 10:43 PM
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i actually did take a pic of the bracket before i bolted the shock up just to show what i'm talking about, but its on my little sister's phone so after i knock her out and take her phone...you know how that goes...i'll try tomorrow.
Old 06-25-2009, 12:20 AM
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Damn man.. I got non adjustable umi lca's and bolt in relocation brackets that i am about to install, bougth umi becuse i thougth that was a no brainer.
Old 06-25-2009, 06:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Dr. Jeckel
I do wonder if the hole being bigger and the bolt being smaller, that even if you get it lined up correctly and tightened as hard as you can, if it wouldn't move over time, after some hard launches.
This is exactly the reason I refuse to run bolt in brackets or SFCs.
Old 06-25-2009, 08:32 AM
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Hello
UMI Performance offers both versions to our customers due to not all of them have access to a welder. And if there is ever a time they have a chance to get them welded then there is no problem with doing so!
Thanks
Brad
Old 06-25-2009, 09:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Thule
Damn man.. I got non adjustable umi lca's and bolt in relocation brackets that i am about to install, bougth umi becuse i thougth that was a no brainer.
Maybe just call Jerry here at the shop and let him explain it before you do the install. Its not hard, but you don't want to just "throw them on quick"

Here is a few tips- Loosen up all (4) control arm bolts, loosen the torque arm at the rear end and loosen the sway bar end links. This will allow the rear end to pivot easier. Do NOT force the rear end back or forward to make the brackets line up. Read the instructions and follow them, they will explain to position the rear end so the control arm lines up with all holes before installing the the bolt. Too many people force the rear end back or forward to get the bolt in.. this is what moves the rear end off center.

We did an install yesterday on a 2000 with these brackets. The brackets lined up perfect and the rear end did not move at all. I will post some pics next week... we are out the rest of this week for a product show.

Thanks!
Ryan


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