JamRWS6

Might try wire tie on them. I think UMI suggests that for some of the aftermarket rearend guys who have similar issues.

SantaCruz163

iTrader: (6)

I just rechecked my BMR T/A and UMI crossmember nuts last night and they are still tight as ****. On adjustable versions, how tight should the nuts be that connect the torque arm to the rearend bracket? I couldn't find that anywhere in the instructions and that might be whats causing my light banging.

Cap'n Pete

iTrader: (2)

If that's the UMI bolt kit, where are your lock washers??? (I had the UMI Tq arm with their bolt kit on my car, and there were definitely lock washers included).

JamRWS6

Good point, you should have a washer, then lockwasher, then a nut on each stud.

Cap'n Pete

iTrader: (2)

The flat washer isn't necessary, and wasn't even included in the kit, but a lock washer would sure help. Mine stayed perfectly tight from the day I installed it, to the day I removed it (I put a lot of my suspension back to stock, as I no longer race my '02 ... I've got the '93 for that now).

Also, looking at those pictures above, I have my doubts that that is the UMI kit. A) there are no lock washers, B) it doesn't even look like there's enough thread left to have a washer in place, and C) the nuts don't look nearly as tall (thick?) as the ones that UMI supplied. Their bolts must have been at least ~1/4" to ~1/2" longer, since when installed, with lock washers and taller nuts, there were still a couple thread pitches exposed.

JamRWS6

Flat washer came in mine...and while maybe not necessary I'd rather have the lock washer on a good flat surface than pushing around the hole in the TA bracket. Either way, definitely need the lock washer.

Cap'n Pete

iTrader: (2)

Actually, I think my memory slipped on me ... perhaps there WAS a pair of flat washers included with the bolts as well?! I DO know that there were lock washers for sure .

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

Didn't come with a lock washer from the factory.

How ghetto ...

JamRWS6

That torque arm didn't come on my car from the factory

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

lol ....

z28ss4me

iTrader: (2)

Mine has lock washer...that's a stock photo off of BMR's website...not my car.

Major_Lee_Slow

iTrader: (1)

FYI lock washers don't do jack. In college my friends senior design thesis was on lock washers and their ability to help keep fasteners from coming loose. Most threaded fasteners retain their torque due to the friction between the treads of the male and female fastener. The load on the treads is created by bolt stretch. When the fastener is torqued to the proper load the tensile load on the bolt/nut creates a high normal force on the threads which is supposed to keep them from coming loose. The lock washer, or split ring washer works on the premise that it's a spring and that it adds to the tensile load on bolt/nut. Well considering how much tensile load is already being generated by the bolt nut vs. how little a split ring washer can add one can see that the split ring washer doesn't contribute much.

My friend proved that the vibration resistance and the break away torque are not affected by the addition of a split ring washer. However, loc-tite makes a huge difference because it "glues" the two threads together which increases the frictional load between the two which makes them more resistant to backing out.

All the OEM's know this. This is why they either use lock nuts or they put an adhesive patch on the bolts. For example, the caliper pin bolts have an adhesive patch. While the PHR nuts are a crimped locking nut. i.e. it's not perfectly round.


BTW, my camber bolt came loose this past weekend. It's gonna be loc-tited in place once I re-set the alignment. So check ALL your nuts!

BMR Tech

iTrader: (9)

Agree totally with you on the lock washer premise. I recommend thread locker(which if done right I have never had a problem coming loose) or wiring the bolts if you have the ability.

Cap'n Pete

iTrader: (2)

You guys have never noticed the effect of how a lock washer "cuts" into the metal? If they're so "useless", why are they so widely used??

Major_Lee_Slow

iTrader: (1)

That's like asking how did Billy Mays get so rich selling such crap.

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

What about the flanged bolts like used in the trans mount? I notice they are serated on the seated side. Does this aid in retention?


Sort of on topic ...

Everyone does insert the T/A bolts from the top, right?

Even if your nuts do come loose or even off, gravity will help get you safely stopped.

00 Trans Ram

iTrader: (5)

I have had almost every bolt under my car come loose. Especially if it's something that I loosened then retightened. After finding loose nuts after every race, I did something about it. I put a nylock nut on top of every suspension nut I've got. If I couldn't get another nut on there, I put loctite. If it was something I wouldn't take off normally (torque arms, swaybars, etc.), I tack welded the nuts.

Major_Lee_Slow

iTrader: (1)

I haven't studied them so I'm not sure. But just thinking outloud here. In order for the serated teeth to bit in they have to dig into the metal. If one tightens the fastener system (nut and bolt) by rotating the nut and holding the bolt steady (the prefered method for more repeatable torque readings) then the serations just displace the metal when the nut is rotated. However if one were to rotate the bolt and hold the nut steady, then the serations could hob into the metal. This may help increase the initial break away torque.

z28ss4me

iTrader: (2)

I think I get what you're saying but I had to read four times! You're way over my head man!