Panhard bar install ... gone wrong. How to fix?
07-28-2009, 01:37 PM
#21
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That's the best answer I heard so far. I never thought that there would be a preload on the car. I'll just get a buddy of mine to hop in and see if it levels out.
... and if the preload is 180-220lbs, I'm going to need to gain a couple of pounds (more like 20+) to drive my Camaro properly, hehe.
07-29-2009, 12:22 AM
#22
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Well, I finally got my panhard bar install situated.
My route was; installed panhard bar on car using a ramp. Hand tightened the bolt and nut on both sides of the panhard bar. Took the car off ramps. Went under the car while it was on the ground (skinny people have an advantage here) and tightened the nuts and bolts with a friend in the driver's seat (due to the 180lb - 220lb preload).
Drove around a road where I memorized the bumps and the panhard bar slightly firmed up the rear end. The rear feels better planted during high speed cornering and as for low speed cornering with a lot of throttle, it solved my car from now sliding from side to side (the limited slip differential is better utilized now).
UMI; your products are great! Definitely going to get more UMI products. Subframe connectors, here I come.
My route was; installed panhard bar on car using a ramp. Hand tightened the bolt and nut on both sides of the panhard bar. Took the car off ramps. Went under the car while it was on the ground (skinny people have an advantage here) and tightened the nuts and bolts with a friend in the driver's seat (due to the 180lb - 220lb preload).
Drove around a road where I memorized the bumps and the panhard bar slightly firmed up the rear end. The rear feels better planted during high speed cornering and as for low speed cornering with a lot of throttle, it solved my car from now sliding from side to side (the limited slip differential is better utilized now).
UMI; your products are great! Definitely going to get more UMI products. Subframe connectors, here I come.
07-29-2009, 08:25 AM
#23
Thanks again for choosing UMI Performance, we appreciate the business
Best Regards,
Ryan
11-30-2009, 08:18 PM
#24
This thread is gold. I was under the car today thinking to myself:
"How The Heck Does Thing Work?"
The rear didn't look any different or like it needed adjusting, but I figured "I bought the damn thing so I might as well use it."
Now I Know How To Put It In.
"How The Heck Does Thing Work?"
The rear didn't look any different or like it needed adjusting, but I figured "I bought the damn thing so I might as well use it."
Now I Know How To Put It In.
11-30-2009, 08:22 PM
#25
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when i put mine in i never even lifted the car with anything just sat there in the driveway and crawled under there (before it was lowerd) poped the old one out and put the new one right in no problem?
12-01-2009, 01:47 AM
#26
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I am happy for the great outcome, but some of you guys have to learn how to improvise. I had a similar problem where the panhard bolt was off 1/2 inch. I had no immediate help since friends were not available for and hour or two.
After a few minutes of thought, bingo, i found a 2x4 and held it in place across the inside of the wheel housing on the quarter panel lip. I placed a scissor jack against it and applied pressure to the axle flange and inched the axle over until the bolt was correctly aligned. Voila!
After a few minutes of thought, bingo, i found a 2x4 and held it in place across the inside of the wheel housing on the quarter panel lip. I placed a scissor jack against it and applied pressure to the axle flange and inched the axle over until the bolt was correctly aligned. Voila!
07-26-2010, 10:58 PM
#29
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it doesn't but what you can try doing is having either you or a friend get into the driver's side seat and then tighten the panhard bar bolt. The suspension is preloaded so tightening the panhard bolt when a person is in the driver's side seat does help it out.
07-27-2010, 09:20 AM
#30
The F-Body lean is a by-product of a PHR equipped car. The purpose of a PHR is to centrally locate the rear in the chassis but there are variances in chassis dimensions from car-to-car. Combine these variances with a fixed length PHR and you get varied ride heights and mis-matched side-to-side heights. If this does not make sense to you then consider the following: Remove the PHR completely and you will see that the car will level out. This is because everything shifts to it's natural resting spot on the springs. This is where the suspension "wants to be". Unfortunately, this position is rarely center. Installing an adjustable PHR will properly center the rear however you also get a jacking effect as the PHR pulls the body over, rocking the springs on their seats. This is just the nature of a PHR. Watts links do not have this issue.
Winston Cup guys use PHR's too and compensate by adjusting individual spring heights after every PHR adjustment.
Winston Cup guys use PHR's too and compensate by adjusting individual spring heights after every PHR adjustment.
06-21-2017, 08:10 PM
#31
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thread bump
should the adjustment be made with the car on the ground and under load or with the rear end hanging ?
I installed the UMI adjustable ( poly ends ) bar and the driver side is "out" a bit more than the passenger side
should the adjustment be made with the car on the ground and under load or with the rear end hanging ?
I installed the UMI adjustable ( poly ends ) bar and the driver side is "out" a bit more than the passenger side
06-21-2017, 10:59 PM
#32
Adjust the PHB so that at full compression, the rear suspension/wheels do not hit anything (particularly the fenders). Second priority is to center the rear end at ride height, but make sure the suspension still clears everything under full compression. You can mock up full compression by supporting the rear end with a jack (chassis up on jack stands) and disconnecting the shocks, then removing the rear springs. Finally, raise the rear end up to the bump stops with the jack.
