I have lowered 5 cars, 3 cars i didn't have to remove sway bar end links the rest i did, It all depends on the car. Like stated above a few whacks just below the upper ball joint and the spindle comes loose.

Also i always take loose the master cylinder but leave the brakes lines connected to gain access to the driver side strut bolts.

 

has anybody else ever seen the shock shaft stuck in the upper mount so bad that it could not be removed? I thought I read somewhere that the drivers side was usually much less rusted then the passenger side - what have you found? I should get to that side this weekend (keeping my fingers crossed that it comes apart as it should.)

 

i had to cut it off an buy new shocks 1 time

 

passenger side was a bitch, driver side came right off.

 

Yeah dude, you don't need to mess with the swaybar or endlinks at all.

 

It will not come apart as it should, I have replaced 2 sets of shocks on F-Bodies, my 2000, and a 2002 and both had to be cut off. The 2002 was the worst. See this thread here.

Shock and spring install from hell

 

I'm not trying to save the shock, but I am hoping to be able to reuse the top mount.

 

I replaced my shocks last weekend. I went ahead and replaced my front bushings (8) and hardware that attaches to the front sway bar.

First off let me state my goals... This is my weekend fun car that I bought brand new off the lot-first and last. I have kept it in a garage and have done all the mods myself-with the help of this board. I live in Florida but, don't think the car has been subjected to an adverse amount of corrosion. I PM'd and talked at length with Sam Strano about my goals. Out of all the different Car Parts outfits I have talked with I really felt good about our chat. He didn't push me in any direction and, I heard the passion in his voice he has for these cars. I did not end up buying my shocks from him this time -sorry Sam- I could not pass up this deal on ebay! At any rate in the future I will be looking to him for future suspension upgrades. So to be short- I wanted to maintain stock ride height-and I know many will turn their nose up at that but, upgrade my ride over the stock decarbon's.

What I found... I found both sides to have some degree of rust build up but, the passenger side was really ate up. I cleaned up everything and gave the control arms and perches some new paint. I took the fronts to tire kingdom, and they squeezed and replaced 'em. The passenger side as predicted needed a whiz wheel to remove/ destroy the nut/ shock to remove and replace it with the new shock.

Notes... In retrospect I am glad I replaced the front bushings/ hardware.
Before I reinstalled the coil over assy's I generously applied some non conductive silicone grease and rust preventer to the nut/shock rod/ rubber boot top of the assembly-hoping that this will help next time. I mean that thing just lives up under the fender with no real reasonable way to get at it and clean/Corr Prevent it periodically.

With the vehicle supported on 4 jackstands I found placing my jack under the lower control arm and pumping it up great for taking the tension off the spindle arm when removing it from the upper control arm ball joint. Just compress it. No prying, no removing the brakes and jumping on the axel. Just pump it and take the castle nut off easy.
Once again I do believe that the suspension is the most overlooked mod area to these cars and I think / thank Sam Strano for being a positive force in our community.

 

I finally got to the driver side. It was rusted, but not as bad. I had to cut the nut off but everything else (mounts) was reuseable. I put on the DMS springs and a new set of decarbons. I know most of you don't like them but I got a real good deal on them ($50 for all 4) and have had them sitting around for a long time. I haven't had a chance to take the car outside yet, so I don't know what it feels like yet. It looks good, the rear might be a little to high still. I figure I'll drive it a few times before deciding about the heater hose mod. The sway bar end links snapped off (rust) on both sides so I got a set of Energy Suspension poly end links at Autozone. they were only about $15.

 

New decarbons are about like old decarbons..... The shocks are not really good, even when they are new. I'd have saved the $50 and reused the old ones (if you weren't going to replace them).

 

I appreciate your expertise and advice. I bought the new decarbons a few years ago and have had them sitting in a box. my old shocks were not reuseable (see previous posts). I rarely drive my car anymore so I haven't justified the cost of the new shocks (yet)

It sure looks cool in the garage. When I'm ready I will certainly consider the expert opinions here for new shocks.

 

Sorry, I missed that you had to cut them off. New decarbons are better than cut off decarbons. Guess I need to read and pay attention.

 

It is not necessary to remove the caliper and rotor. Pop off endlinks, spindle arm, and strut. Done.

 

way to revive a 7yr old thread!

 

Not to keep bumping an old thread but since I am installing new shocks, springs, and strut mounts do I need to take the fronts apart after I get them out? This is my firs time doing a strut replacement on any vehicle. My rears are already done. Did them this last weekend.

 

Yes, if you didn't buy new strut mount brackets, and I'm guessing you didn't (they run about $70-100 a piece.

 

What does one of these look like? I have the strut mounts and from the how to's I have read there is no mention of these brackets. The mounts were $83 a piece. This is the how to I am following. http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=6 From the way I read it I won't need a spring compressor. My springs allow me to put the mount on and still have shaft left to put the nut on. The shock is Koni SA with BMR spring.

 

Does the car need a front end alignment after doing this?