Suspension & Brakes Springs | Shocks | Handling | Rotors

is this a bad wheel bearing?

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Old 09-27-2009, 12:48 PM
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Have you checked to see if the rack is tight?

There are 2 large holes in the bottom of the K-Member. Use an 18mm socket and check torque. Not sure what the actual TQ value is, but I Use a 1/2 drive ratchet and put some decent grunt behind it.

You might have to put a backing wrench on the bolt head. I can't recall its size ... 15mm I think.

BTW ... that caster bushing is not looking good.

Also, to check for movement, don't start it and move the wheel back a forth a lot quicker. It makes the movement more dramatic.

Last edited by mitchntx; 09-27-2009 at 12:55 PM.
Old 09-27-2009, 01:34 PM
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i checked the rack, it's plenty tight.

the sound, whether you can tell from the video or not, i feel very confident is coming from inside that accordion looking rubber boot. what is in there?

when you say don't turn the car on, there is no power steering and it's really hard to make the wheel move back and forth quickly. are you asking to see another video but with the car off?

i can see the camber part of the a-arm moving though, when i turn the wheel. i guess i didn't notice it before. i have heard of people spraying silicone on bushings and that can help with noise...should i try that on the front bushing just to see if it helps the noise go away so i can pinpoint my problem?
Old 09-27-2009, 01:48 PM
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Its not THAT hard ... and you don't have to turn the wheel but maybe a quarter turn each way. Just quickly rack the wheel back and forth so that the movement is grossly obvious.

Don't need to see another video, just have someone help you.

Inside that boot is the inner tie rod. It screws into the end of the rack.
Old 09-28-2009, 10:01 AM
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Originally Posted by mitchntx
Its not THAT hard ... and you don't have to turn the wheel but maybe a quarter turn each way. Just quickly rack the wheel back and forth so that the movement is grossly obvious.

Don't need to see another video, just have someone help you.

Inside that boot is the inner tie rod. It screws into the end of the rack.
gotcha. from that vid you can't really tell what it is though? damn, i was hoping the noise would be obvious to someone.

also, i sprayed wd40 on that bushing like mad and it didn't affect the noise at all, however if it was the bushing making noise, i'm not sure that would make a difference anyway.

what about white lithium grease? anything wrong with spraying that around the area and see what happens?

Last edited by tuffluck; 09-28-2009 at 11:19 AM.
Old 10-30-2009, 11:30 AM
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damn i always hate when i search and the OP says they will report back what the problem was and they never do! so here goes:

had the car looked at and the camber bolt was loose, causing the a-arm to shift back and forth where the a-arm connects to the k-member. this was causing the rice-krispies noise effect, and also caused the tire to lean inside since the loose bolt caused the a-arm to slip OUT from where it should have been.

lower ball joint was fine, a-arm was fine, spindle was fine, no damage done. just an alignment will fix this, which i didn't have time to get done yesterday. they did however adjust the a-arm bolt to level the tire based on eye'ing it, and i will go in a couple of weeks to get the full alignment.

car drives great, no wheel problems, i'm just amazed at firestone. 2 alignment techs were idiots and truly believed something was bent that they couldn't fix, but didn't realize the a-arm had been pushed out because of a loose bolt. or they loosened the bolt and never tightened it back? ridiculous.

the only thing i can think is when i nailed a curb a year ago, it jarred the a-arm from it's aligned position, and firestone loosened the bolt to try and fix the positive camber but forgot to tighten the bolt all the way. i guess that's actually an okay alternative from hitting a curb since you can ruin so many other things when that normally happens.




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