UMI Sales

iTrader: (1)

Hello
It really depends on what spring you are using and what the spring rate it is and how the cars traction is. Anytime a customer asks about HP level with a transmission mounted set up I always suggest anytime you get between 400-450 HP start thinking about getting the arm off of the rear of the transmission because it will break the tail shaft. That is why we recommend going with a torque arm relocation cross member. Below is a link to show you what all we have to offer.

http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...ex&cPath=7_116

If you have any other questions feel free to ask and I will be more than glad to help.
Thanks
Brad

pjb

iTrader: (2)

if anyone tells you that sportlines are OK, take that person off the list of people you listen to.

even the people who say they are not bad end up saying they really did suck after they get rid of them.

If you know somebody with them, go for a ride with them.

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

No, it's not true in 99.5% of cases, and seriously mean that. Some times a car is border line on pinion angle stock, and lowering it makes for an issue. If you get a vibration, than you know you need an adjustable TA to deal with it. But it's not in any way, shape, or form, required....

I sell Adjustable TA's so believe me--if they were needed the way some imply, I woudn't mind. But it's not the case.

The angle does change, but not be a significant amount. As for where do you risk snapping a stock TA? That can happen with normal wear and tear and wheelhop. I know of more than a few very stock cars that have cracked (and some completely broke) stock GM TA's.

02WS6SSZ71

iTrader: (20)

thank you Brad and Sam for your replies. Now I can act like I know something

Mr CHI

iTrader: (3)

What Happens If Your Rear End Is Not Centered?

pjb

iTrader: (2)

for one thing, you can have tire rub on the inside.

pjb

iTrader: (2)

even if the sportlines were free I wouldn't touch them.
you will end up hating your car. even if you pretend to "not mind it", anyone who rides in your car will hate it. that will make your car an embarassment to you, and you'll hate that. get decent shocks/springs, or leave it stock instead of going with the sportlines.

the car in your sig looks great - don't turn it into a POS.

UMI Sales

iTrader: (1)

Like mentioned above you will have a issue with tire rubbing either on the lip of the fender or on the inner fender. And like I suggested before a very easy way to see if the rear end is not centered is to take a string and tape it to the middle of the fender and measure from the lip of the wheel and that will give you a measurement on how far it needs to be adjusted. And the only way to have the rear centered up after lowering is going with a adjustable pan hard bar. Below is a link to show you what all UMI Performance has to offer!

http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...76kvsdblot8dg0

If you have any other questions feel free to ask and I will be more than glad to help.
Thanks
Brad

Mr CHI

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for the reply. I didn't know what "not centered" meant as far as rear ends go. I'll take a measurement as soon as it stops sleeting outside.

I most likely need a PHB anyway. I would hear some slight clunking in the rear when going slow on uneven roads/turns with my 17.9.5's (275/40/17) ,and it got worse when I put on the 18x10.5's(275/40/18). I plan on getting those 295/35/18 GS-D3's for $163.00 to fit the rims better. This may warrant a big effing hammer though.

I'm on stock springs/shocks so I didn't think I'd have clearance issues, but since I most likely will, I'll get some lowering springs and the PHB.

GM F-Body Tubular Single Adjustable Panhard Bar <---Will That Work?