josh99ta

iTrader: (1)

PJB, I understand why you linked the threads. If you read the UMM write-up, you'll see that it says to cut the top of the shock or drill a clearance hole through the strut tower, otherwise you'll get banging and noise. I did neither, and got banging and noise. Once I did one of the two, it went away. Pretty straightforward, as you already know. The reason I replied the way I did was because you seemed to be trying to discredit the other parts of the setup. The UMM and not making the proper provisions was the problem. The modified springs, bumpstops, swaybar endlinks, etc was not the problem. I felt like you didn't get that.

Nick, I couldn't agree more (and I don't think it is your imagination either).

I can say that the car rides excellent, and the more I drive it the more impressed I am with it. I know I had to go the extra mile to achieve that, and it was a bit more involved than just a simple spring and shock swap, but to me it was worth it for the results I was trying to achieve. And I will say that with the other upgrades the car does handle considerably better than stock too. I think a set of Strano swaybars would really put this thing over the top for me to cut out the slight bit of body roll I still have since I'm on softer spring rates.

pjb

iTrader: (2)

good luck with it.

78novacaine

iTrader: (2)

did mine today, only did 1.25 off in the front, and 1 off in the back so as to retain ground clearance (crappy roads, steep driveways, etc, this car sees about 20k miles a year of use, if not more) and the handling/ride are drastically improved. there is almost no body roll in hard corners (also have SFC's, Tq arm relocation, and UMI adjustable Tq arm) and the only limiting factor in hard corners now is my lack of a front swaybar (was damaged in a minor accident, and cant afford to replace it yet) and my tires

here are a couple pics :

Photochop

iTrader: (74)

That sits perfect ^

Looks just about like my old red 98 z28. Nice work!

78novacaine

iTrader: (2)

yeah, i didnt want it to be TOO low, i daily drive this car 20-25k miles a year, and i prefer 1/8 and 1/4 racing over rolls, so weight transfer with a longer, softer spring, and driveability were my two biggest concerns, and i think this setup accomplished those goals perfectly. plus the handling with the drop and the koni's is SICK, i cant wait to crank up the stiffness on them the next time i am gonna hit some twisties

josh99ta

iTrader: (1)

With a sway bar back on and the Konis dialed up it should really be nice.

Glad to hear someone else wasn't afraid to go this route and got some positive results. With the Konis they'll handle it all day long, and since you didn't cut too much you'll still have a considerable amount of travel left. Should make for a really nice combo considering your particular needs.

mondols1

iTrader: (2)

i was about to buy some vogtlands for +/-$100 but after seeing 78novacaine's results i think ill just cut the same amount (since i have a z28 also) and see how it works out.

josh99ta

iTrader: (1)

If done right it honestly won't hurt anything, and doesn't cost you a dime, so if you do it and don't like it you can always just get the springs anyway.

Jeff Smith

iTrader: (44)

Subscribee

JamRWS6

First of all, I wasn't trying to come off as argumentative and I'm glad you got the noise issue tracked down.

I just wanted to point out something that was said previously. Ride Quality and handling are all subjective. Just to pinpoint something you said above, Konis on 3 turns from full soft on my car w/ stock springs felt like mush. I completely hated the lack of responsiveness. You said you ran them on full soft. I am sure I would think that your car handles like crap about like you would think a lowered car w/ Koni shocks would ride like crap.

In the end it is all what fits your needs and I'm glad you're happy. I didn't buy an F-body for a smooth ride like I also didn't buy it for gas mileage. You have more suspension travel and I'm sure your car rides better. My car has less suspension travel and I'm sure it handles better. It's all a compromise.

05GTO6SPEED

iTrader: (3)

Any pics of the spring and how much you cut off???

License2Ill

iTrader: (1)

I would like to commend Josh on standing his ground from the many would be "purists"....and also for executing a perfect line of defense.

The information written clearly explains the fundamentals behind the modifications and how they work....the UMM thread also shows how it works.

Together they both should be stickies...altho im not certain the sponsors would enjoy its fruitions.

These mods are not for the faint of heart and certainly a mistake can be made. But if done correctly the results would be just the same as having spent big bucks.

I planned to drop maybe an inch....I cannot find 1LE springs...also I do not want a bigger drop or much much stiffer springs....so the money I would have to spend on aftermarket springs would be a complete washout for me...as I am certain I would not be very happy with the results from lower drops and much stiffer springs.

This solution when combined with the UMM results in possibly more travel than stock if not the same AND a slightly stiffer spring rate. All the while lowering your center of gravity......EXACTLY all things I was aiming for but would otherwise be FORCED into aftermarket "heaven"/overkill.

I plan to do it.
I definitely want to say that the naysayers have sadly lost their case.
It is quite clear upon reading both threads......their is no detriment from these mods.

The myth of not cutting springs has been disspelled.
And the travel lost by cutting them has been returned and then some.

Of course I am certain their are limitations. But for someone looking for a small nudge and street performance....to me this looks like the "just right" feel I was looking for. Coupled with its low cost of freaking nothing.
I plan to feel out this setup with my Koni's for sure. And I can't see a shred of evidence that displays it to be less worthy than any other setup that advertises the same spring rates or more with of course LESS travel and much bigger drop.

The fact that modders are acheiving this by way of manipulating existing parts makes no difference on the end results....that compare to any other slew of mismatched or matched aftermarket components powder coated or not.

Thanks again to those who took the time out to experiment.
Hot rodders thru and thru.