dgcustomz

iTrader: (127)

Not sure if this is helpful or not but thought I'd post it up to see what you guys thought about it. I just ran across it while surfing the net...
http://hewsoninc.ca/mythinformation.htm

ssam98

iTrader: (5)

good stuff.

The Alchemist

iTrader: (19)

I was so happy when I swapped out my poly/poly lca's for 1le factory lca's. The car rode so much nicer, and handled better.

Mike's02Z28M6

According to that article Poly seems to be the upgrade in wolves clothing...or something like that. Really, how do we know that article is correct about poly use in the suspension being a bad idea? Someone with some knowledge please chime in. Rubber or poly bushings?!

zbugger

The only place I use Poly bushings is in sway bar bushings and on the end links. As soon as the grease is forced out from where it's supposed to be lubricating it begins to stick and bind. It's not the best to use in any rotational location. For example, my '77 Camaro started out with rubber bushings. It was fine till they wore out and they were replaced with Poly. If I lift the car off the ground and let the suspension droop, then drop it back on the ground, the car sits in a raised position due to the poly bushings binding. They're being swapped out with some Del-A-Lum's from Global West. Oh, and it's also why a lot of the new aftermarket performance trailing arms are being made with spherical ends now. Eliminate the binding.

The Alchemist

iTrader: (19)

Ask Sam Strano if he uses poly bushings anywhere on his f-bodies other than the sway bar endlinks or motor mounts.

Like I said, my car would squeak and rattle and handled shitty till the day I swapped out the poly/poly lower control arms and went back to the factory lca's and swapped in 1le bushings.

toadzq8

iTrader: (43)

Poly bushing LCA's are the worst suspension mod you can do unless all your racing is at the drag strip. 1LE LCA's are the best way to go. But they look ugly LOL. I ended up making my own using a 1LE bushing on one end and a Currie Johnney joint on the other. so far they are working great.

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

The poly end, cracked open like an egg in the article, I believe, is the one I broke. Certainly looks like it and it retains the name I gave it when I took the picture. Wow ... that was over 10 years ago!

While that had everything to do with quality of workmanship and almost nothing to do with poly bushings, after that, I removed all the poly ended suspension components and either stayed with factory rubber or went rod ends.

I now have the Global West spherical bearing kit installed in my front lower A-Arms.

The transition to bind-free rod ends significantly altered my chassis set-up. I went up (WAY up) in spring rate. So binding does create issues.

redracer1

iTrader: (2)

So are the new UMI roto joints a good solve to this myth?

Somebody send this to that Mythbusters show.lol.

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

I run 1LE rear control arm bushings (have them in stock most of the time). I run rubber as I am not allowed by rules I race under to run rod-ends or spherical bearings. I use delrin offset bushings in the upper front control arms.

Pretty much on the money. Urethane only on the bars, and Torque Arm bushing...

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

Rod-ends, Spherical bearings, and Roto-joints (which are just a type of spherical bearing) do no bind and stick... No Mythbusters needed here.

All anyone has to do is chuck the parts in a vice, stick a bar in the the sleeve like a bolt would go through and start twisting. You'll see, plainly and quickly, that a ball type joint allow rotation, urethane does not.

Of note, there is one type of sort of hybrid that is all urethane but uses a ball and socket type setup. In theory this is better than a standard urethane bushing. In practice it's not as good IMHO because urethane is sticky enough that it needs to be lubed when rubbing on metal. Having 3 urethane parts riding on each other is even worse.....

dgcustomz

iTrader: (127)

Researching before you buy is a great thing!