Best LCA's
12-12-2009, 08:05 PM
#21
if your main focus is drag racing and you're lowered more than an inch or so, then absolutely get them. the lower the car, the more chance you're going to get wheel hop when launching, and the relocation brackets will help you regain some of the LCA angle you lost from lowering the car and help prevent that wheel hop.
if you do the lower perch/heater hose lowering method with the Koni shocks, it's a judgment call at that point as to whether or not to get them. this lowering method usually only lowers you around 5/8" - 3/4", which is usually enough to get rid of a bit of excessive wheel-well gap, but not really enough to seriously adversely affect your traction (obviously, that's going to vary, based on how sticky your tires are and how hard you launch it).
if your main focus is a daily driver and/or road course or auto-x, the brackets are not as necessary, regardless of the amount lowered....in fact for this purpose, some people consider the relocation brackets detrimental to handling....although if you ever attempt to launch the car hard with it set up like this, you're bound to get massive wheel hop if your tires actually grab, which can be a death sentence for a stock rear end.
it's really up to you to decide what's best for your car....but the basic rule of thumb is that if you get wheel hop on a regular basis, you should get the brackets.
another thing to consider is that most brackets on the market come with at least two sets of holes that you can use for attaching the LCA's to, an upper set and a lower set. the lower set is better for gaining (or regaining) the maximum amount of LCA angle for launching the car. the upper set will still gain (or regain) you some LCA angle, but not as much as the lower set of holes, so for a DD/road course/auto-x car, you could use the upper set of holes to regain a little of the LCA angle, but without losing as much of your handling characteristics. and you can also switch between them fairly quickly, based on what you're doing with the car at the time, since all it requires is removing/replacing one bolt/nut per LCA to change holes.
12-13-2009, 12:41 AM
#22
it really all depends on the degree to which you're lowered, as well as the purpose of the car.
if your main focus is drag racing and you're lowered more than an inch or so, then absolutely get them. the lower the car, the more chance you're going to get wheel hop when launching, and the relocation brackets will help you regain some of the LCA angle you lost from lowering the car and help prevent that wheel hop.
if you do the lower perch/heater hose lowering method with the Koni shocks, it's a judgment call at that point as to whether or not to get them. this lowering method usually only lowers you around 5/8" - 3/4", which is usually enough to get rid of a bit of excessive wheel-well gap, but not really enough to seriously adversely affect your traction (obviously, that's going to vary, based on how sticky your tires are and how hard you launch it).
if your main focus is a daily driver and/or road course or auto-x, the brackets are not as necessary, regardless of the amount lowered....in fact for this purpose, some people consider the relocation brackets detrimental to handling....although if you ever attempt to launch the car hard with it set up like this, you're bound to get massive wheel hop if your tires actually grab, which can be a death sentence for a stock rear end.
it's really up to you to decide what's best for your car....but the basic rule of thumb is that if you get wheel hop on a regular basis, you should get the brackets.
another thing to consider is that most brackets on the market come with at least two sets of holes that you can use for attaching the LCA's to, an upper set and a lower set. the lower set is better for gaining (or regaining) the maximum amount of LCA angle for launching the car. the upper set will still gain (or regain) you some LCA angle, but not as much as the lower set of holes, so for a DD/road course/auto-x car, you could use the upper set of holes to regain a little of the LCA angle, but without losing as much of your handling characteristics. and you can also switch between them fairly quickly, based on what you're doing with the car at the time, since all it requires is removing/replacing one bolt/nut per LCA to change holes.
if your main focus is drag racing and you're lowered more than an inch or so, then absolutely get them. the lower the car, the more chance you're going to get wheel hop when launching, and the relocation brackets will help you regain some of the LCA angle you lost from lowering the car and help prevent that wheel hop.
if you do the lower perch/heater hose lowering method with the Koni shocks, it's a judgment call at that point as to whether or not to get them. this lowering method usually only lowers you around 5/8" - 3/4", which is usually enough to get rid of a bit of excessive wheel-well gap, but not really enough to seriously adversely affect your traction (obviously, that's going to vary, based on how sticky your tires are and how hard you launch it).
if your main focus is a daily driver and/or road course or auto-x, the brackets are not as necessary, regardless of the amount lowered....in fact for this purpose, some people consider the relocation brackets detrimental to handling....although if you ever attempt to launch the car hard with it set up like this, you're bound to get massive wheel hop if your tires actually grab, which can be a death sentence for a stock rear end.
it's really up to you to decide what's best for your car....but the basic rule of thumb is that if you get wheel hop on a regular basis, you should get the brackets.
another thing to consider is that most brackets on the market come with at least two sets of holes that you can use for attaching the LCA's to, an upper set and a lower set. the lower set is better for gaining (or regaining) the maximum amount of LCA angle for launching the car. the upper set will still gain (or regain) you some LCA angle, but not as much as the lower set of holes, so for a DD/road course/auto-x car, you could use the upper set of holes to regain a little of the LCA angle, but without losing as much of your handling characteristics. and you can also switch between them fairly quickly, based on what you're doing with the car at the time, since all it requires is removing/replacing one bolt/nut per LCA to change holes.
12-21-2009, 07:11 AM
#27
What they do is allow you adjust the lower control arm parallel to the surface (putting it back the the correct position) Therefore eliminating the wheel hop and regaining your traction performance.
Thanks
Brad
Great to hear! And thanks again for choosing UMI Performance.
