Did Shocks + UMM + Poly Sway Endlinks, Now Have Loud Suspension
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Seems like the noise ur getting is 90% the shock stud hitting the shock towers. I have my motor out so i'm going to be doing this mod with my konis. and from the research i've read it seems like u have to either cut the shaft or drill the tower or else it will definitely bang. Im pretty sure poly swaybar bushings wont really make noise except for maybe squeak a tiny bit?
hope you get this figured out though. Let us know.
hope you get this figured out though. Let us know.
#26
Sold The Fun Stuff :(
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So I pulled everything apart yesterday, wrenching in the driveway during freezing rain and snow for most of the day, and it turns out I was getting some pretty significant contact between the upper shock rod and the strut tower, just as the UMM write-up said I would if I didn't cut off the top of the upper shock rod or drill through the strut tower. I was hoping it wouldn't be that significant, but it was making some pretty heavy contact.
Nothing is damaged, but the contact did give me a nice indentation to start drilling. Normally I'd cut the shock rod, but on these Bilsteins they're threaded all the way to the top, and also have an inset allen head key hole in the top to keep the shock from spinning during assembly/disassembly. I didn't want to chance not being able to get the assembly apart in the future, and since the strut towers are structurally very strong anyway, I decided drilling was the best choice in my application.
I used a 7/8" hole saw to make my opening on each side, and while the shocks were off I tightened down the nut on top of the shock rod on each side just to make sure they were good and tight. Now that it's reassembled, I can clearly see the shock rods on each side poking up through the very bottom of the holes I drilled for clearance purposes. I haven't driven it much but no more banging. I'll get some more seat time and see just how big of a difference it made over the next few days.
While I was at it I also relocated the hood release cable through the fender well on the driver's side, and did the wire mod to hide the big bundle on the passenger's side as well as relocating my TCS to behind the PCM, so not only did I get the suspension issues ironed out, but I also got two big projects under the hood complete that I've been wanting to tackle for a while now. It was a very productive day overall.
Nothing is damaged, but the contact did give me a nice indentation to start drilling. Normally I'd cut the shock rod, but on these Bilsteins they're threaded all the way to the top, and also have an inset allen head key hole in the top to keep the shock from spinning during assembly/disassembly. I didn't want to chance not being able to get the assembly apart in the future, and since the strut towers are structurally very strong anyway, I decided drilling was the best choice in my application.
I used a 7/8" hole saw to make my opening on each side, and while the shocks were off I tightened down the nut on top of the shock rod on each side just to make sure they were good and tight. Now that it's reassembled, I can clearly see the shock rods on each side poking up through the very bottom of the holes I drilled for clearance purposes. I haven't driven it much but no more banging. I'll get some more seat time and see just how big of a difference it made over the next few days.
While I was at it I also relocated the hood release cable through the fender well on the driver's side, and did the wire mod to hide the big bundle on the passenger's side as well as relocating my TCS to behind the PCM, so not only did I get the suspension issues ironed out, but I also got two big projects under the hood complete that I've been wanting to tackle for a while now. It was a very productive day overall.
#28
Sold The Fun Stuff :(
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A little update. I had to go Christmas shopping so I was able to travel my normal 25 mile route to work. It's amazing how much better the car rides. Maybe the noise from the UMM and the upper shock rod hitting the strut tower was bothering my **** retentiveness, and maybe it was limiting travel once the contact was made, but regardless of whatever it was all I know is the car rides a LOT better now. It's so much more smooth over road imperfections, along with being dead silent.
I couldn't be happier with this setup...correction, I've never been happier with a suspension setup before. I'm flat out impressed with how nice the car rides. To be honest I thought this setup was going to be pretty good for what I was going to use it for, but at the end of the day I was on cut stock springs with used Bilsteins, and my hopes were very realistic. I'm actually shocked such a basic, budget setup could yield such great results. The only area the entire suspension is lacking now IMO is a little more body roll when pushing the car hard, but that's to be expected on lower spring rates. I think once I upgrade sway bars front and rear it'll be perfect in all departments.
I couldn't be happier with this setup...correction, I've never been happier with a suspension setup before. I'm flat out impressed with how nice the car rides. To be honest I thought this setup was going to be pretty good for what I was going to use it for, but at the end of the day I was on cut stock springs with used Bilsteins, and my hopes were very realistic. I'm actually shocked such a basic, budget setup could yield such great results. The only area the entire suspension is lacking now IMO is a little more body roll when pushing the car hard, but that's to be expected on lower spring rates. I think once I upgrade sway bars front and rear it'll be perfect in all departments.
#30
Sold The Fun Stuff :(
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Not much to see. LOL Just looks like any other F-Body suspension. I'll get an underhood picture when I get a chance to clean it up of the wire mod and relocated hood release cable, and you can see my big ol holes I drilled for the UMM mount. I've got a few ideas on ways to cover them up and make it look good.