I need alignment specs for 200+ mph runs
#1
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Hey guys, im going to run the texas mile and some bonneville events this year, and my goal is to break the 200mph mark. I need to figure out an alignment spec that would be best for this, and also if it would be detrimental to use those specs on the street as well. i have a tubular k-member with extra adjustment as well as adjustable height coil-overs, with stock arms.
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I do not want to miss lead you , as I realy do not know what is needed at that speed,but I would suggest you set as much Caster as possible. Caster will help stabily at high speeds ( think of a bike with extened forks-the longer the more stable)
I know the componets will stretch from the rolling resistance at that speed, hard to guess how much so I will stop rambleming.I would set Camber +.50 ( if front rises at speed should bring camber back to about 0.00, so no rolling restance) toe at 0.00
( again as rising will cause some + setting but rolling restance will push toe - so hope toe will caunsel out to about 0.00
just my $.02 Johnny
I know the componets will stretch from the rolling resistance at that speed, hard to guess how much so I will stop rambleming.I would set Camber +.50 ( if front rises at speed should bring camber back to about 0.00, so no rolling restance) toe at 0.00
( again as rising will cause some + setting but rolling restance will push toe - so hope toe will caunsel out to about 0.00
just my $.02 Johnny
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I'd set the camber @ around zero... I agree you want all the positive caster you can muster. But I'd recommend--strongly, toe-in for stability sake. The more toe-in the better the car tracks and that's what you want @ high speed. The more toward zero or toe-out the more reactive the car becomes which is not what you want. And given the control arm bushing setup there is deflection that will try and toe out the setup a bit with force applied. I'd say at least 1/8" total toe-in in this case. Maybe more. But you have to watch tire wear because if you see any uneven wear or temps you might need to tweak accordingly.
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Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
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Good advice Sam.
Definitely invest in a tire pyrometer. Something with a good probe that will give you accurate temps deeper into the tread as opposed to a IR thermometer. Some of the pyrometers out there have settings for brake temps also so you can get good readings for both at the same time. Great for Road Racing.
My personal preference for Pyrometers is the Quickcar #56-151.
Definitely invest in a tire pyrometer. Something with a good probe that will give you accurate temps deeper into the tread as opposed to a IR thermometer. Some of the pyrometers out there have settings for brake temps also so you can get good readings for both at the same time. Great for Road Racing.
My personal preference for Pyrometers is the Quickcar #56-151.
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Awesome, thank you guys! On my current "street" alignment I have been an "unofficial" 170mph with over 400rwhp and the car seemed quite stable, but not in the sense that I would feel comfortable turning the wheel much. It rode nice and smooth and straight though. I can't remember the specs off the top of my head right now. I'm hoping to be in the 750rwhp range, I hope this will get me to my goal!
I also plan on adjusting my coil-overs as low as they will go, and then set the alignment. I now see that I will not use these specs for everyday use...
I also plan on adjusting my coil-overs as low as they will go, and then set the alignment. I now see that I will not use these specs for everyday use...