Asking for advice
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
Asking for advice Allright,
I've been researching the next step for my Z and I'm asking for some input/advice/critiquing of what I've found from my research thus far.
Background info: I've had my 94Z since 2001 (bought it in high school) and never touched the suspension. Motor, tranny, and brakes have all been upgraded but my ride quality and traction blows. I think the next step for the car should be suspension upgrades in two stages, since I don't want to shell out the cash for both right now.
The car has close to 200k on the chasis, with less than 10k on the motor, tranny, and rear. The car is daily driven in non snowy months(I has a beater), sees some 1/4 mile times(for fun), and will never see an autoX track. My goal is straight line performance without making on/off ramps dangerous or unpredictable, and I don't care about road noise and such. Mods in sig.
Stage 1: Operation ride-not-suck
My ride quality is that of a 200k mile 15 year old car with original suspension, this needs to be addressed first. My thoughts were replacing every bushing with a urethane kit that can be found for $150-$200. The next thing to go is my shocks and springs. My original plan was for QA1 SA front and rear coilovers, but I've been recommended that rear coilovers aren't necessary for my goals and the stock spring will work just fine despite their age. AFCO, and strange shocks have also been recommended to me. The AFCO are out of my price range while the Strange are not. Would anyone recommend Strange over QA1? Is there a better shock for my setup? I like to order things that I'm not all to familiar with as a package setup so I don't leave anything out, QA1 and Edlebrock look like the only two offering a complete setup. EB doesn't seem to fit what I'm looking for.
Yes, bushings... shocks, and chassis stiffening. I have long tube headers, custom ypipe, and a hooker cat back. With this exhaust I was thinking tubular 2 point SFCs would fit nicely, make my ride quality a little nicer, and not bend things later. With the addition of ride height control, an adjustable PHB should be on that list too I'm guessing, since the car will no doubly be lower than stock. Without coilovers I would leave this option out since I have a plate welded to a stock PHB, since I bent the old one. Thoughts?
Stage 2: Operation traction-more
After stage one is complete I'll be taking care of traction. This consists of LCA relocation brackets (bolt in or weld, either or) and adjustable(or solid) LCAs. I don't know if I need the ball joints on both, or just one end. Any input on that matter would be appreciated. I don't want binding (articulation?) to cause an unpredictable ride, but I have no idea just how bad that is or isn't.
Torque arm... Tunnel mount? Tail mount? I don't care about road noise, just straight line performance while being safe to drive every day in warmer months. Advice appreciated on this one since I'm no suspension guru. Strut tower braces seem to lack enthusiasm, do they really offer much?
I'm not concerned with sway bars or a traction bar at this point. I'm not competing in any events nor do I intend on doing so. This is my fun car and I use the crap out of it when the weather is nice. I'd like to keep stage 1 around $1,200 and stage 2 around $1,000 EXCLUDING INSTALL. Yes, I'm lame and work to much to mess with installing these parts. I've been working 60+ hours a week and cannot show up to work tired since I'm a professional pilot.
Should I move anything from stage 2 to 1, or vice versa? Is there anything I'm neglecting? I'd hate to have these parts installed and the mech. say "Oh, btw... XYZ is shot and you'll need a new one". I'm trying to get rid of the worn out parts first and have things set up for improvment down the line. Any and all help is greatly appreciated.
I've been researching the next step for my Z and I'm asking for some input/advice/critiquing of what I've found from my research thus far.
Background info: I've had my 94Z since 2001 (bought it in high school) and never touched the suspension. Motor, tranny, and brakes have all been upgraded but my ride quality and traction blows. I think the next step for the car should be suspension upgrades in two stages, since I don't want to shell out the cash for both right now.
The car has close to 200k on the chasis, with less than 10k on the motor, tranny, and rear. The car is daily driven in non snowy months(I has a beater), sees some 1/4 mile times(for fun), and will never see an autoX track. My goal is straight line performance without making on/off ramps dangerous or unpredictable, and I don't care about road noise and such. Mods in sig.
Stage 1: Operation ride-not-suck
My ride quality is that of a 200k mile 15 year old car with original suspension, this needs to be addressed first. My thoughts were replacing every bushing with a urethane kit that can be found for $150-$200. The next thing to go is my shocks and springs. My original plan was for QA1 SA front and rear coilovers, but I've been recommended that rear coilovers aren't necessary for my goals and the stock spring will work just fine despite their age. AFCO, and strange shocks have also been recommended to me. The AFCO are out of my price range while the Strange are not. Would anyone recommend Strange over QA1? Is there a better shock for my setup? I like to order things that I'm not all to familiar with as a package setup so I don't leave anything out, QA1 and Edlebrock look like the only two offering a complete setup. EB doesn't seem to fit what I'm looking for.
Yes, bushings... shocks, and chassis stiffening. I have long tube headers, custom ypipe, and a hooker cat back. With this exhaust I was thinking tubular 2 point SFCs would fit nicely, make my ride quality a little nicer, and not bend things later. With the addition of ride height control, an adjustable PHB should be on that list too I'm guessing, since the car will no doubly be lower than stock. Without coilovers I would leave this option out since I have a plate welded to a stock PHB, since I bent the old one. Thoughts?
Stage 2: Operation traction-more
After stage one is complete I'll be taking care of traction. This consists of LCA relocation brackets (bolt in or weld, either or) and adjustable(or solid) LCAs. I don't know if I need the ball joints on both, or just one end. Any input on that matter would be appreciated. I don't want binding (articulation?) to cause an unpredictable ride, but I have no idea just how bad that is or isn't.
Torque arm... Tunnel mount? Tail mount? I don't care about road noise, just straight line performance while being safe to drive every day in warmer months. Advice appreciated on this one since I'm no suspension guru. Strut tower braces seem to lack enthusiasm, do they really offer much?
I'm not concerned with sway bars or a traction bar at this point. I'm not competing in any events nor do I intend on doing so. This is my fun car and I use the crap out of it when the weather is nice. I'd like to keep stage 1 around $1,200 and stage 2 around $1,000 EXCLUDING INSTALL. Yes, I'm lame and work to much to mess with installing these parts. I've been working 60+ hours a week and cannot show up to work tired since I'm a professional pilot.
Should I move anything from stage 2 to 1, or vice versa? Is there anything I'm neglecting? I'd hate to have these parts installed and the mech. say "Oh, btw... XYZ is shot and you'll need a new one". I'm trying to get rid of the worn out parts first and have things set up for improvment down the line. Any and all help is greatly appreciated.
Hello
I noticed that you are looking into doing some serious upgrades to your suspension. And seeing how it is a street and strip car. I would suggest going with at least single adjustable components to hold up under stress and also maintain a good ride quality. The adjustable lower control arms allow you center the wheel in the wheel well. And a adjustable pan hard bar allows you to center the rear up under the vehicle. And going with a rod end eliminates any binding issues that may occur. And if you are going to go with relocation brackets. I would suggest going with the bolt ones first for not only easy installation. But if needed later down the road they could be welded. Below is a link to show you what all we have to offer!
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...s7efl9kppnrts7
And when it comes to the torque arm. I would suggest if you are looking for a good ride quality like stock. Go with a full length adjustable. And to make sure you have no issues what so ever with possibly breaking the tail shaft. Go wit a relocation cross member. But if you are not worried about a clunk every now and then. And just looking for the performance aspect. Our tunnel mounted versions will transfer weight faster and hold up to anything you can throw at it. Below is a link to show you what all I am explaining.
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...s7efl9kppnrts7
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...s7efl9kppnrts7
And I would just stay with the stock rear spring and go with a good rear adjustable shock. And if you are looking for superb weight transfer for on the street and strip. I would suggest a front coil-over with a 300 lbs spring. Below is a link.
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...s7efl9kppnrts7
And you will be fine with a 2 point SFC. They will not only keep the vehicle solid. They will eliminate the body damage on the body (quarter panels) below is a link to show you what we have to offer!
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...s7efl9kppnrts7
If you have any other questions feel free to ask! And I will be more than glad to help.
Thanks
Brad
I noticed that you are looking into doing some serious upgrades to your suspension. And seeing how it is a street and strip car. I would suggest going with at least single adjustable components to hold up under stress and also maintain a good ride quality. The adjustable lower control arms allow you center the wheel in the wheel well. And a adjustable pan hard bar allows you to center the rear up under the vehicle. And going with a rod end eliminates any binding issues that may occur. And if you are going to go with relocation brackets. I would suggest going with the bolt ones first for not only easy installation. But if needed later down the road they could be welded. Below is a link to show you what all we have to offer!
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...s7efl9kppnrts7
And when it comes to the torque arm. I would suggest if you are looking for a good ride quality like stock. Go with a full length adjustable. And to make sure you have no issues what so ever with possibly breaking the tail shaft. Go wit a relocation cross member. But if you are not worried about a clunk every now and then. And just looking for the performance aspect. Our tunnel mounted versions will transfer weight faster and hold up to anything you can throw at it. Below is a link to show you what all I am explaining.
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...s7efl9kppnrts7
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...s7efl9kppnrts7
And I would just stay with the stock rear spring and go with a good rear adjustable shock. And if you are looking for superb weight transfer for on the street and strip. I would suggest a front coil-over with a 300 lbs spring. Below is a link.
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...s7efl9kppnrts7
And you will be fine with a 2 point SFC. They will not only keep the vehicle solid. They will eliminate the body damage on the body (quarter panels) below is a link to show you what we have to offer!
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...s7efl9kppnrts7
If you have any other questions feel free to ask! And I will be more than glad to help.
Thanks
Brad
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
UMI sales, that clears up a few questions I had about the torque arm (hate squeak, don't mind clunk), front, and rear spring recommendation, thanks.
Anyone else? I would like to order my parts next week and get the install done before I have to move. I know it's a lot to read, but I wanted to consolidate into one thread.
Anyone else? I would like to order my parts next week and get the install done before I have to move. I know it's a lot to read, but I wanted to consolidate into one thread.
UMI sales, that clears up a few questions I had about the torque arm (hate squeak, don't mind clunk), front, and rear spring recommendation, thanks.
Anyone else? I would like to order my parts next week and get the install done before I have to move. I know it's a lot to read, but I wanted to consolidate into one thread.
Anyone else? I would like to order my parts next week and get the install done before I have to move. I know it's a lot to read, but I wanted to consolidate into one thread.
Thanks
Brad
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
Got the car back from the shop with everything installed last week and I can't say how pleased I am! I went with Spohn since they had Strange shocks and everything else I wanted on one website and that's the way I prefer to do things.
Parts ****:
Things I like: The car no longer feels sloppy in the turns and tracks straight off the line. I don't feel like the car is going to twist in half. The SFCs and poly bushings make the car feel like it has a frame, love it. The shocks were no where near as bouncy as I thought they would be, it's actually a pretty nice ride. I've got them set to 3 in the front and 5 in the back (clicks from full soft) and will be playing around with that for a while to find the right combo. The rear squats down nicely with a little pitch up in the front off the line, noticeable traction increase. There are no squeaks in the suspension, none whatsoever! It's like I'm not driving a 16 year old car anymore. The car also sits square, it was lopsided from worn components before.
Meh: Poly trans mount transfers quite a bit of vibration, not sure if I'll change it or leave it. The shifts feel much more authoritative though, I'm liking that. It's fine around town, but will probably get annoying on longer trips.
In short, I'm very very happy with this setup. It's an infinite improvement over what I had in there before.
Ride height now:
I'd like to thank Spohn for their help and quick shipping, great people to deal with there. Thanks to everyone else for their advice and the unsung heroes of the search function. You all helped this happen
Parts ****:
Things I like: The car no longer feels sloppy in the turns and tracks straight off the line. I don't feel like the car is going to twist in half. The SFCs and poly bushings make the car feel like it has a frame, love it. The shocks were no where near as bouncy as I thought they would be, it's actually a pretty nice ride. I've got them set to 3 in the front and 5 in the back (clicks from full soft) and will be playing around with that for a while to find the right combo. The rear squats down nicely with a little pitch up in the front off the line, noticeable traction increase. There are no squeaks in the suspension, none whatsoever! It's like I'm not driving a 16 year old car anymore. The car also sits square, it was lopsided from worn components before.
Meh: Poly trans mount transfers quite a bit of vibration, not sure if I'll change it or leave it. The shifts feel much more authoritative though, I'm liking that. It's fine around town, but will probably get annoying on longer trips.
In short, I'm very very happy with this setup. It's an infinite improvement over what I had in there before.
Ride height now:
I'd like to thank Spohn for their help and quick shipping, great people to deal with there. Thanks to everyone else for their advice and the unsung heroes of the search function. You all helped this happen
