street strip setup?
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 143
Likes: 0
From: Indiana
street strip setup? I have a 98 SS, i am about to but a 600hp 6.0 engine in my car and while i am doin that,the rear end,and the tranny,i figured i better do shocks and springs. I will be mostly street driving the car and taking it to the strip about 2 times a month, and i dont want to slam the car but make it a tad bit lower, does anybody have a good setup for what i am doing, any help would be great thanks.
What is the weight of the car going to be? What kind of suspension components are you running? Poly, Rod, both?
The norm for a street strip setup is Strange/QA1/AFCO front shocks usually double adj(DA) but people have turned in impressive times with Single Adj.(SA) Then for the rear the same shock as the front but depending on what trans you are running you can go with a DA or SA Here's a little tip, if it's a six speed car a DA setup is the way to go. I have DA on my auto up front and SA out back.
Springs for the front are based on weight normally. You'll be fine with the stock rear springs.
This setup is far more optimal for strip performance but it's not bad on the street. The days of high speed turns will be gone though.
~Jim~
The norm for a street strip setup is Strange/QA1/AFCO front shocks usually double adj(DA) but people have turned in impressive times with Single Adj.(SA) Then for the rear the same shock as the front but depending on what trans you are running you can go with a DA or SA Here's a little tip, if it's a six speed car a DA setup is the way to go. I have DA on my auto up front and SA out back.
Springs for the front are based on weight normally. You'll be fine with the stock rear springs.
This setup is far more optimal for strip performance but it's not bad on the street. The days of high speed turns will be gone though.
~Jim~
Hello
I noticed that you are looking into a different spring and shock combination. And like mentioned above and to help with maximum weight transfer to help put that 600 HP to the ground. I would suggest going with a front coil over setup. With a 300lb spring for both street and strip. And seeing how you don't want to slam it. They will allow you to adjust the ride height (as long as you get the thrush bearings and spanner wrench for easy adjustments). And for the rear stay with the factory rear spring. And eliminate the spring isolators and slide a piece of heater hose over the spring. And to help keep the weight transferred so its doesn't unload so fast. I would suggest going with a adjustable rear shock. Below is a link to show you what all UMI Performance has to offer!
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...7hp3l5katkrpf2
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...7hp3l5katkrpf2
If you have any other questions feel free to ask! And I will be more than glad to help.
Thanks
Brad
I noticed that you are looking into a different spring and shock combination. And like mentioned above and to help with maximum weight transfer to help put that 600 HP to the ground. I would suggest going with a front coil over setup. With a 300lb spring for both street and strip. And seeing how you don't want to slam it. They will allow you to adjust the ride height (as long as you get the thrush bearings and spanner wrench for easy adjustments). And for the rear stay with the factory rear spring. And eliminate the spring isolators and slide a piece of heater hose over the spring. And to help keep the weight transferred so its doesn't unload so fast. I would suggest going with a adjustable rear shock. Below is a link to show you what all UMI Performance has to offer!
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...7hp3l5katkrpf2
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...7hp3l5katkrpf2
If you have any other questions feel free to ask! And I will be more than glad to help.
Thanks
Brad
I'd also look at a new adj torque arm, adj phb, adj lca's & relo bracket, with the new tranny and rear end you may need them to get it all centered. are you going to try and put 600hp down with stock size tires. if you go 315's it will help there also.
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...7hp3l5katkrpf2
^^ this is to work with LT's but if you have kooks LT's it's a diff kit.
^^ this is to work with LT's but if you have kooks LT's it's a diff kit.
Trending Topics
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Gas Monkey Built a 6-Wheel Ferrari Testarossa With a Corvette LT4 Engine
Verdad Gallardo
7 Most Reliable High-Performance Engines GM Has Ever Built
Verdad Gallardo
Amazing '71 Camaro Restomod Is Modern Muscle Car Under the Skin
Verdad Gallardo
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo With that type of HP I would suggest going with a tunnel mounted torque arm, with a drive shaft loop for at the track. Now depending on what your exhaust combination your running depends on what tunnel mounted arm you choose. Below is a few links to show each tunnel mounted version I am explaining.
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...6t2g3ooet91a44
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...6t2g3ooet91a44
If you have any other questions feel free to ask!
Thanks
Brad
^^looks like the same one I posted up.lol.
I'd get the tranny relo brackets
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...6t2g3ooet91a44
I'd get the tranny relo brackets
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...6t2g3ooet91a44
X2 on that. I was in this boat for about 3 months. I wanted to have an 11 second motor car and then be able to take corners at double the suggested speed. That just doesnt happen. I finally decided that geting it to hook up was what I wanted. I bought a new rear, drag wheels, 28in slicks and saving for Afcos or Strange..
Most will say for a 6 speed your going to want a D/A shock (double adjustable) in the rear. For the money Strange is the way to go. Id stay away from QA1s. Some say they are awsome and dont leak anymore, who knows if thats fixed or not, Im not going to chance that with my money. But Strange and Afco seem to be what a lot of guys run. The reason for a D/A shock is so can keep the rear tires planted and from "unloading". A Bias Ply (ET Drag or Hooser QTP) something around that will also help the tires from unloading. A Radial once it starts to spin its hard for it to recover, so therefor you spin more. Iv seen plenty of guys go with a single adjustment on the rear with a six speed and do OK. My self as much as I race (50 passes a year) I will save a few dollars and get singles for the rear. Unless you race every weekend and need those extra .10s...I wouldnt spend the money. They have too many adjustments and more than likely never get to use a 1/4 of them..
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 5,798
Likes: 16
From: St.Charles MO
X2 on that. I was in this boat for about 3 months. I wanted to have an 11 second motor car and then be able to take corners at double the suggested speed. That just doesnt happen. I finally decided that geting it to hook up was what I wanted. I bought a new rear, drag wheels, 28in slicks and saving for Afcos or Strange..
For handling just run sticky (at least 275) tires all around, with konis and strano bars. Then at the track disconnect the front bar, and run the konis on full soft in the front with slicks and skinnies.
Leaving at 7000 I dont see how the Konis could keep the tires from Unloading.. idk..Konis/strano is what I REALLY want for comfort but its becoming more a race car everyday..
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 5,798
Likes: 16
From: St.Charles MO
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...-60-konis.html
No ****..Wow. Me and Sam talked about this car and I wasnt sure..Good thing I havent orded anything yet! I might be looking at this because ride comfort is a big thing to me!!
