The Alchemist

iTrader: (19)

Well, first off, my suspension is comprised of Strano springs, Koni 4/3's, 1lE lower control arms in the rear, and a BMR poly/poly adjustable panhard rod.
The car has been night and day difference since adding the Koni's and Strano's, but the rear end seemed really jittery, especially over our crappy roads here in eastern PA.

I was swapping the rear diff cover for a billet TA performance one, and while I had the car in the air, I wanted to check my rear shock settings. I thought they were one setting from full soft, but of the 4 settings, they were one away from full firm, problem one.
The next issue was the panhard rod. Seems the inner sleeve of the poly ends had rusted inside the bolt and kept the panhard from articulating at all. To the point where when I unbolted the drivers side, and pulled it down to fill the differential, it literally sprung back up like it was a spring. So much for free articulation. That was problem #2.

So right now I'm on the fence with what to do. I've talked to Sam about a Watt's link, and I like it, but I'm still on the fence. I'm tempted to put the factory PHR back in and see how softening the shocks and having an articulating PHR will change the car. If I get another PHR, it'll have either the Spohn Delrin ends or UMI's roto joints. I'm still trying to compare those two to see if there are any major differences.

So, help me decide what to put back there:
A: facotry PHR and call it a day. Cost: Free.
B: UMI adjustable PHR with Roto joints. Cost: $154
C: Spohn adjustable PHR with Delrin joints. Cost: $154
D: Watts Link. Cost $650

Adam1982

iTrader: (6)

if money is no issue id go with the watts, whos knows more **** about this than Sam? But it is a lot more expensive. Im a big fan of UMI but if the Spohn is the same price, i would have to consider that if the Watts is not doable financially.

motoo344

iTrader: (19)

That actually seems like its a tough decision because three of your choices are free or $150 and then you jump to $650. IF I had the money, which I don't lol, I would go for a watts link. I don't know if you thought of this, but if you got PHR and that did not do what you wanted you could always sell it and recoup most of your money.

Stuinkuwait

iTrader: (3)

all the rest of the components that you have on your suspension are top of the line ... why would you throw the weak link in there with cheep parts. Go with the Watts.

SparkyJJO

iTrader: (11)

I'd either go with the UMI w/ roto joints (that's probably what will end up on my car eventually) or the Watts link. If budget allows, the Watts for sure. I doubt my budget will ever allow, that's why I'd be getting the UMI w/ roto joints.

sjsingle1

iTrader: (1)

never having had the watts...............wonder if its really worth it.....i had a umi double adj BTW

99Bluz28

iTrader: (35)

The difference between the UMI Roto-Joint and the Spohn Del-Sphere Pivot Joint, the UMI Roto-Joint center section is one solid piece, the Spohn Del-Sphere center section is comprised of 4 pieces, which IMO isn't as strong and more prone to rusting than the Roto.

If you want to keep it simple get the UMI w/roto-Joints, but if the thought of noticeably improving to handling of you car puts the slightest grin on your face then get the Watts-Link!
I've got a Watts on my car and it was well worth the cost!

tecmec

iTrader: (1)

How heavy is the Watts? Everyone always seems to talk about it lately, but that's one question that always comes to my mind...

luna123black

iTrader: (1)

i just finished my watts link instal. havent driven it yet. but if your interested i have a umi double adjustable phb with roto joints i need to get out of my living room. this was installed but never driven on. pm if interested.

LilJayV10

iTrader: (39)

I would at a minimum replace the PHB with an aftermarket piece. There was a huge difference from the stock PHB to the UMI piece I bought.

The Alchemist

iTrader: (19)

I think I'm going to go with the UMI peice for now. Get the car back together and see how it drives. I think between the phb binding, and the shocks set too firm, that has been a major cause of the rear wanting to jump around on me.

Like everyone has said, if I want to go WATT's link in the future, I can sell the UMI PHB. Part of the issue is also install time. With two kids and a honey-do-list taking up two pages, the amount of time I have to wrench on the car is quite limited. So if I can just bolt up the phb and go, that's a plus to me.

Luna123black, you have a PM.

transwiz

iTrader: (26)

The watts link is well worth the money.After you install one on your car you will wonder
why you didn't buy one sooner.The thing is bad ***.Ask anyone who has one and they will tell you.An aftermarket phb is not even in the same league as the watts link.Since you have already dealt with sam you should call him and see what he has to say.

UMI Sales

iTrader: (1)

Hello
Thanks for considering UMI Performance for your suspension needs. I just wanted to throw this out there for you. When you go with UMI Performance you are not only getting a product that is tested and proven. You are getting a product that is made right here at our own facility in the USA. And all of our parts are back with a 2 year warranty and we offer superb customer service and tech advice. If you have any other questions feel free to ask.
Thanks
Brad

BTL FED

iTrader: (9)

I have the Watts link, and it is WELL worth the money, makes the car feel so much more stable, I love mine

The Alchemist

iTrader: (19)

It looks like the overwhelming response has been to go with the WATTS link.

I read where people are having issues with attatching or mounting the sway bars, is that true? Is it just factory or is it aftermarket as well.

I have BMR front and rear sways, so maybe I'll be alright.

99Bluz28

iTrader: (35)

If you currently have at least 1/2" of exposed thread below the nuts on you sway-bar U-bolts you're good!

True, the factory 4" length U-bolts are to short, a 4.25" will work, but a 4.5 would be better. So if your current sway-bar U-bolts don't offer at least 1/2" of exposed thread below the nuts when fully tightened then you need longer U-bolts.
I already sent Jim Fay an email suggesting to at least offering longer U-bolts as an option with our F-body kits.
FYI, I just got back an email from Jim Fay about the issue with the factory U-bolts on Sunday stating: "Tell me what length and width and diameter you guys will need and I'll find them."

I already sent him a reply stating:
"The Factory U-bolt are:
L = 4", W = 2.75", D = 5/16" at the thread.

Here's what we need with using one of the 1/2" tall spacers per side:
L = 4.5", W = 2.75", D = 3/8" at the thread."


FYI, I'll let you know his reply when I get it.

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

The entire thing is about 27 pounds (in a box), the stock PHB and brace is about 9, so it's a net gain of about 16-17 when you consider the size of the box it comes in and the fact we're also weighing hardware in that number too....

99Bluz28

iTrader: (35)

Hey Sam, isn't the unsprung weight of the Watts-link the same, if not very close to the weight of an aftermarket Adjustable PHB ?

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

No, the Watts does add some unsprung weight to the car. But if you run a hollow rear bar instead of a solid one, the weight largely evens out vs. a stock car.

The Alchemist

iTrader: (19)

Sam, what's a good time to call? I think after talking to you, I'll be set.

Update: I stopped today and picked up some metal cutting blades as my last 2 were 'borrowed' and never replaced and I was able to cut the bolt out. So no matter which way I go, I need at least one new bolt for that location.

I checked on my u-bolts on my rear sway and I have a good 3/4" exposed thread all the way around, so that's a good thing.

Brien