replacement wheel hub
05-14-2010, 11:52 AM
#2
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www.rockauto.com has several brands. The cheapest being $134.79 TIMKEN Part # 513090 The A/C delco one runs about $260 so I dont think you're going to find a good deal on an OEM.
I think I have to replace mine as well. But, my problem is my traction control and ABS don't work. Im not sure why the wheel hub would effect your speedometer. I believe the speed sensor is in the tailshaft of the tranny. Someone correct me if im wrong.
I think I have to replace mine as well. But, my problem is my traction control and ABS don't work. Im not sure why the wheel hub would effect your speedometer. I believe the speed sensor is in the tailshaft of the tranny. Someone correct me if im wrong.
Last edited by SAMSONite; 05-14-2010 at 11:58 AM.
05-15-2010, 05:01 AM
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What's up. I bought 2 SKF brand hubs last spring because of the price and had both wheel speed sensors crap out within 200 miles. The first one died after 50 miles. I couldn't believe it. I paid the money for the oem one's after that. I personally wouldn't buy that brand again even though I do know of people that use them with success.
05-15-2010, 08:17 AM
#5
What's up. I bought 2 SKF brand hubs last spring because of the price and had both wheel speed sensors crap out within 200 miles. The first one died after 50 miles. I couldn't believe it. I paid the money for the oem one's after that. I personally wouldn't buy that brand again even though I do know of people that use them with success.
05-18-2010, 01:10 AM
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What's recommended for a good wheel hub. I farm and when replacing bearings TIMKEN has always been a decent brand for me. But I want something that's going to hold up good and give me reliability at 160 mph speed 
and the sensor to last also or is it best just to spend the coin on the AcDelco one
I just got done replacing my wheel studs with new ones since the previous owner screwed up the threads on the stock ones and those wheel studs from the dealer weren't that cheap at $3.49 a piece after I had it all together spun the hub no tire on click click click turn it the other way sound went away for not even a quarter of the way click click click sounds like the ball bearing holder inside got damaged and the ball bearings are touching each other anyone else have an idea of what it might be though?
and the sensor to last also or is it best just to spend the coin on the AcDelco oneI just got done replacing my wheel studs with new ones since the previous owner screwed up the threads on the stock ones and those wheel studs from the dealer weren't that cheap at $3.49 a piece after I had it all together spun the hub no tire on click click click turn it the other way sound went away for not even a quarter of the way click click click sounds like the ball bearing holder inside got damaged and the ball bearings are touching each other anyone else have an idea of what it might be though?
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05-18-2010, 02:07 AM
#8
I jus' installed a wheel bearing assembly a few days ago. I purchased this one for 63 at O'Reilly's:
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...3338&ppt=C0337
Did I jus' buy junk?
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...3338&ppt=C0337
Did I jus' buy junk?
05-18-2010, 07:03 AM
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coming from the racing world, its a proven fact that the best quality hubs for 4th gens are OEM. there are NO aftermarket hubs that will last as long as the originals. but, this is from racing only, where the heat and stress is MUCH higher then youll ever see on the street. if youre worried about quality that much, find a part-out car and take those hubs. regardless of the miles, as long as theyre tight, theyll be better quality then brand new timkens or SKF.
however, for regular street driving with no autox/road race, timkens will do just fine. to be safe, clean all the rust off the spindle, spray some rustolem to keep it clean, and possibly use neverseize on the metal-metal contact parts, all in preparation of replacing them again sometime in the future. i had to pound the living **** out of some original hubs off an 80K mile parts car to get them off.
however, for regular street driving with no autox/road race, timkens will do just fine. to be safe, clean all the rust off the spindle, spray some rustolem to keep it clean, and possibly use neverseize on the metal-metal contact parts, all in preparation of replacing them again sometime in the future. i had to pound the living **** out of some original hubs off an 80K mile parts car to get them off.
05-19-2010, 06:31 PM
#12
one thing i hate........one part ........but every 1 sells that part as theirs......so there are many prices for that same part from diff part stores......but they make you think theirs is better than the other guy...............when its the same FRIGGIN part
