Subframe Connectors
Subframe Connectors Last night I saw an F-Body Camaro that had a twisted frame from launching hard. He didn't have subframe connectors. There is a huge gap around his T-tops. I've also heard of people losing T-tops while driving. I really do not want this to happen so I'm going to take some advice and get subframe connectors. Who's got the best deals on them? I'll probably just go with weld-in because I don't care if they're permament, they'll be cheaper. So if anyone knows where the deals are or what to recommend, let me know.
UMI all the way. Byunspeed has a sale + additional 5% if you order through them before midnight 5/31 if I am not mistaken. Good stuff...I have been using all their stuff save for sway bars (only because they didn't offer them when I ordered mine) since '05 and it is all good quality stuff. Plus, they actually respond to their tech support emails which is a bonus in my mind.
Wolfe racecraft through the floor subframe connectors.
http://www.wolferacecraft.com/detail.aspx?ID=805
http://www.wolferacecraft.com/detail.aspx?ID=805
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I have the UMI 2 points and I really like them. The car feels much more solid and is definitely more responsive. Plus they are easy to install (bolt-ins) and they are relatively inexpensive compared to other car parts.
Ill be going with UMI's 3point Subframe Connectors here soon. I would choose between BMR and UMI for anything suspension. There quite possibly the 2 best companys out there for our cars. In the end, its personal preference on which company you go with.
BMR, Spohn and UMI all make 2 points, weld-ins or bolt-ins. UMI only makes 3 points.
If you have the standard header/y-pipe design in your car, the 3-points are the way to go. If you have some other setup like dual dumps, etc, the 3 points are not guaranteed to fit so I would suggest 2 points.
My preference is bolt-ins. In the end, the person you pay to weld in weld-ins, the cost will end up being what you paid for the bolt-ins. The bolt-ins are just as strong and you can remove them later if you wish.
If you have the standard header/y-pipe design in your car, the 3-points are the way to go. If you have some other setup like dual dumps, etc, the 3 points are not guaranteed to fit so I would suggest 2 points.
My preference is bolt-ins. In the end, the person you pay to weld in weld-ins, the cost will end up being what you paid for the bolt-ins. The bolt-ins are just as strong and you can remove them later if you wish.
Hope that helps
Ryan
Actually we haven't found a single exhaust system in the past 5 years of making the 3-Point SFC's that won't clear them including all different brand y-pipes, dumps, true duals and custom set ups. We have our bracing bent in areas to offer maximum clearance for this.
Hope that helps
Ryan
Hope that helps
Ryan
Well I have.
I run UMI 3 points everyone.
there, happy?
