hyperzone

I'm swapping alot of parts from my late '96 ss to the '97 I have now. I pulled out shocks and a-arms and cleaned them all up quite a bit. I changed out the bushings and put in the prothane bushing kit which went well. Changed out the upper ball joints no problem. Get to the lower ball joints and hit the snag. I simply cannot get them to go in straight. Just getting the ball joint clamp/press thing setup with out a buddy holding some pieces still was a pain. I'm not sure if I'm lacking the right adapters for the tool or what. I watched a few videos online about installing ball joints and it looks simple as hell. I bought these new ball joints from Autozone and I believe they are duralast p/n FA2111. Checked them with a caliper vs. the a-arm hole and they appear to be 1mm larger in diameter. Is it normal for the new ball joints to be slightly larger? Do I need to sand down the a-arm hole a bit to make it go in better? If taking these to a shop is the only way, then so be it... but, I'd really like to do it since they're already bolted in the car and I purchased the tool thats suppose to take care of it.

Any tips/suggestions?

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

LOL ... I feel your pain.

I never had any luck with those on the car type installers. And the 4th gens are worse because of the angles involved.

I gave up, pulled the lower A-Arm and took it to a local shop with a proper press.

98TAjwh

iTrader: (4)

it helps to have access to a hydraulic press. i pulled my a arms, put them in the press. they went right in, no problem.

sjsingle1

iTrader: (1)

that C clamp type remover/installer is useless......the angles and shape of the the arm wont let you get a good grip.....ended up using a big press......but the angles again were hard to keep the proper position and press at the same time.......finally got it to work but bent my arm a little........the BEST route would be to have the GM tool that supports the arm in the press......or take it to the dealer

hyperzone

yeah, I didn't mention it earlier but, my buddy and I did try a hydraulic press and bent an a-arm. Didn't do to much damage but, it was going in crooked again and started to curl or bow up the hole on the side that would be towards the car. Thats when I went and wasted my money on the ball joint c-clamp tool. hehe.. So, got another a-arm from a junk yard for $30 and cleaned it up and here I am. Will just about any place have the right tools for OUR a-arms? or do I need to hit-up a GM service center?

sjsingle1

iTrader: (1)

dont think any 1 but the dealer would have that stinkin special tool........

hyperzone

Hey, to all those intersted, it is possible after all. I've been working on all my stuff at a buddy's house with his help. He ended up trying another idea we had to get the balljoint in after I left last time and gave me a call today saying their both in without hurting anything.

The idea was to basically dremel out some of the hole in the a-arm just a bit to sort of make a tapered edge to help the balljoint to start going in straight. Apparently it worked along with the c-clamp style ball joint install tool. I initially was thinking of working about half of the hole out a bit but he said he just used the dremel on the edge of the opening.

ScrapSilicon

iTrader: (3)

McQuay-Norris FA2111 Upper Ball Joint

1badWS6

iTrader: (32)

BINGO! That's what I did too. I just said **** it ... lol.

98ZEMT

iTrader: (5)

I bought autozone BJs too. The first one looked completely different from the second one. First one went in perfect. Second one wouldn't go in for ****. Ended up using wd-40, block of wood, and a BIG *** HAMMER. Worked great. Didn't even bend the a arm. I wouldn't suggest doing it this way but I refuse to take **** to a shop. Everytime I have they screw stuff up worse than I would have. Just my $.02.

terryr

I made this press. Works great.

rednari

A lot of people do not know this. Ball joints come in oversizes, as in 10 thousandsths, 20 thoudandths, etc. It is to compensate for a worn A arm hole or when the ball joint cracks and then turns in the A arm after an accident or other incident. Sometimes the A arms are not stamped correctly either.

But, more probable is that the parts counter guy does not know the difference, and gets two ball joints from the parts bin and one is standard size while the other is oversize. That is why one will fit well while the other is tight or loose. Do not attempt to hammer a tight one in, it is too large. Take it back to the parts supplier and tell him what is wrong and get the correct size. This works vice versa, if the ball joint is too loose and installed anyway, it will turn in the arm instead of the joint.

It also helps to buy parts at Napa or other outlets with experienced personel who know cars and the parts business. Instead of some guy who works at Advance for instance, while putting himself through school, if you know what I mean. Hope this helps.

97pontta

iTrader: (10)

I struggled with that C-clamp tool last weekend while trying to change my lower ball joints. I though it would be quicker that removing my lower a-arms. I had the same issues with getting the ball joint started straight, I was able to get them started straight by slowly adding pressure and using a rubber mallet to carefully tap the c-clamp tool to keep it straight. Once I got them started straight I found the tool didn't have enough ***** to push the ball joint all the way in ( it was a loaner from AutoZone). At this point I had already wasted about 5 hrs and was getting pissed. Said screw it and pulled the lower a-arm off and took it to my shop where there is a hyd press and they went right in with no problems. Took a total of 3 hrs to remove the a-arms, press in the new lower ball joints with a hyd press and reinstall the a-arms. Live and learn I guess, in the future I will be removing what ever suspension part that has the ball joint and going to a hyd press.

hyperzone

My friend managed it with hand tools but, I have heard that using an impact makes it alot easier.