Alignment #s
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Registered User
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 7
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From: houston
Alignment #s I was wondering if anybody knows if these #s are right. I got the eibach pro kit. So it is lowered a little. Tomorrow I'am going to put some nittos, up front 245/40/18. An rear 295/45/18. nt05. Next week im going with koni. So if their not right I gots to find a shop where, they will do a custom alignment. NTB wont cut it. For those that are from the Houston Tx anybody know of any shops?
Last edited by juansss01; Jun 24, 2010 at 10:53 PM. Reason: for got something
Sorry I can not read thoes specs, not sure if it is because of the time of nite or my bad eyes
try a look at my site to see the specs I like , I am lowered 1 3/4" around
you may fudge a little on thoes specs and still be ok
pm me if you like and I will forward my cell #
Johnny
www.jgruggles.com
try a look at my site to see the specs I like , I am lowered 1 3/4" around
you may fudge a little on thoes specs and still be ok
pm me if you like and I will forward my cell #
Johnny
www.jgruggles.com
they look like stock alignment numbers. I daily drive my car and have it set up somewhat aggressive; camber @ -0.75, max + caster, and 0 toe. I'm running konis, GC coilovers w/ 450/150# Eibach race springs, 35/21 sway bars, roto-joint LCAs and PHB, SFCs, STB, adjustable torque arm, and 18x9.5" Z06 rims with BFG Sport tires.
Last edited by vjo90rs8; Jun 25, 2010 at 05:45 PM.
Don't like them....if nothing more, they're not symmetrical (the same on both sides), although there should always be a tad more caster on the pass side, to compensate for road crown.
What I run:
Camber 0* both sides
Caster 5* drivers side, 5.5* pass side
Toe .04* both sides
If I read your chart correctly, one of your "toe" numbers shows "negative toe". Toe is always measured as "in" so negative toe means toe out.
My car is a DD, not raced, or having the living crap driven out of it. Therefore, my camber numbers aren't all that aggressive, however it will give good cornering, while maintaining decent wear patterns.
What I run:
Camber 0* both sides
Caster 5* drivers side, 5.5* pass side
Toe .04* both sides
If I read your chart correctly, one of your "toe" numbers shows "negative toe". Toe is always measured as "in" so negative toe means toe out.
My car is a DD, not raced, or having the living crap driven out of it. Therefore, my camber numbers aren't all that aggressive, however it will give good cornering, while maintaining decent wear patterns.
On The Tree
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 145
Likes: 0
From: Barrie , Ontairo , Canada
Don't like them....if nothing more, they're not symmetrical (the same on both sides), although there should always be a tad more caster on the pass side, to compensate for road crown.
What I run:
Camber 0* both sides
Caster 5* drivers side, 5.5* pass side
Toe .04* both sides
If I read your chart correctly, one of your "toe" numbers shows "negative toe". Toe is always measured as "in" so negative toe means toe out.
My car is a DD, not raced, or having the living crap driven out of it. Therefore, my camber numbers aren't all that aggressive, however it will give good cornering, while maintaining decent wear patterns.
What I run:
Camber 0* both sides
Caster 5* drivers side, 5.5* pass side
Toe .04* both sides
If I read your chart correctly, one of your "toe" numbers shows "negative toe". Toe is always measured as "in" so negative toe means toe out.
My car is a DD, not raced, or having the living crap driven out of it. Therefore, my camber numbers aren't all that aggressive, however it will give good cornering, while maintaining decent wear patterns.
Funny , My car seems to pull to the right all the time !!! does setting the caster to 5.5 on the passenger side make that much of a difference ??
Thanks .
I like about .50 lead on right
with about as much caster as possible
Johnny
