hooking
I had same problems with my car (mods in sig). I switched to Hoosier DR's and grabs much better with a little spin in 1st. Now Im considering QA1 front and CE rear shocks to see how It will work.
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 321
Likes: 1
From: Schertz, Tx
Tires I say change the tires. I just went from an NT01 to a Summer NT05. The NT01 275s never slipped. The newer NT05 315s summer compound will slip all day if I flash the converter on the street.
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10 Second Club
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 1,034
Likes: 1
From: Cape Girardeau, Missouri
I noticed you are having issues with spinning.....There are so many scenarios that can cause this...Do you have any suspension work done to the vehicle? Such as Lower control arms, relocation brackets, SFC's, Pan hard bar. What is your spring and shock combo as well... Ans are you running a Street radial on a 17in wheel? If so you have to keep in mind that there is very little sidewall that you are able to work with..What it comes down to is allowing weight to transfer back to the rear and allow the weight to carry over the rear keeping the tires planted. If you can get back to us with your mods and we can go from there to see what will work best for your set up.
Thanks
Brad
Hello
I noticed you are having issues with spinning.....There are so many scenarios that can cause this...Do you have any suspension work done to the vehicle? Such as Lower control arms, relocation brackets, SFC's, Pan hard bar. What is your spring and shock combo as well... Ans are you running a Street radial on a 17in wheel? If so you have to keep in mind that there is very little sidewall that you are able to work with..What it comes down to is allowing weight to transfer back to the rear and allow the weight to carry over the rear keeping the tires planted. If you can get back to us with your mods and we can go from there to see what will work best for your set up.
Thanks
Brad
I noticed you are having issues with spinning.....There are so many scenarios that can cause this...Do you have any suspension work done to the vehicle? Such as Lower control arms, relocation brackets, SFC's, Pan hard bar. What is your spring and shock combo as well... Ans are you running a Street radial on a 17in wheel? If so you have to keep in mind that there is very little sidewall that you are able to work with..What it comes down to is allowing weight to transfer back to the rear and allow the weight to carry over the rear keeping the tires planted. If you can get back to us with your mods and we can go from there to see what will work best for your set up.
Thanks
Brad
to the OP, just get nitto555r's period. especially at your power level. its the cheapest and easiest way also. best tires ive even owned. i have to dump the clutch at 4k in 1st too light them up as opposed to doing 2nd gear burnouts on mint sumo's. still have the sumo's on the front. IMHO these tires are good for at least another 100rwhp/ an maybe 100rwtq 
Are u calling me a bad driver? Its pretty hard to get traction with bald fuzion street tires. I can just get on the gas hard in 3rd and lose traction. Tires and suspention would do a world of good.
I have issues on the street. My car has a little suspention work. (torque arm, anti sway bar, subframe connectors,) As far as springs and shocks, im stock. On the street i run a 17 inch wheel with 275 street tires. For track use i have 16 inch wheel with mt et streets on them. I havent ran my car since the motor rebuild, but when it was stock i could only pull a 1.7 60foot.
Thanks for getting back to me with that info! A few things that a recognized that you did not have was a set of aftermarket LCA's and relocation brackets. And for your application I would suggest looking into a single adjustable LCA's to make sure when you run the Street Radial that is center in the wheel well. And having the poly bushing on the chassis side will maintain a great ride quality on the street. And the rod end on the rear will allow the rear end to articulate and eliminate any possible issues with suspension bind and not only hold up better then a poly bushing on the rear end.
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...dbmtbksn68tsi5
And going with the relocation brackets will allow you to adjust the LCA for better instant center. And they also will eliminate wheel hoping issues and increase your traction performance on both the street and strip. We offer them in both a weld on and a bolt on application. We always suggest once you start getting down around 1.5 60fts or better go with the weld on brackets (or just weld on your bolt on brackets).
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...dbmtbksn68tsi5
If you have any other questions feel free to ask.
Thanks
Brad
I wasn't calling anyone a bad driver in here. I was suggesting that in many cases where people post that they can't get any traction, that there may exist the possibility that they need to adjust their left and right foot a bit. How's that for a politically correct answer
I'll admit that I've been trying to launch well in my racing events for years. I still got problems doing it well consistently. So there's a driver factor in there in my case
Were you about to call me an a**hole!?!?!
I wasn't calling anyone a bad driver in here. I was suggesting that in many cases where people post that they can't get any traction, that there may exist the possibility that they need to adjust their left and right foot a bit. How's that for a politically correct answer
I'll admit that I've been trying to launch well in my racing events for years. I still got problems doing it well consistently. So there's a driver factor in there in my case
I wasn't calling anyone a bad driver in here. I was suggesting that in many cases where people post that they can't get any traction, that there may exist the possibility that they need to adjust their left and right foot a bit. How's that for a politically correct answer
I'll admit that I've been trying to launch well in my racing events for years. I still got problems doing it well consistently. So there's a driver factor in there in my case