Need suggestions on adj. PHB and LCA relocation brackets
#1
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Need suggestions on adj. PHB and LCA relocation brackets
In two weeks I'm planning to install a set of KYB AGX's and Strano springs on my '02 Z28, I've read up that I'll need an adj. PHB for sure, and possible relocation brackets for the LCA's.
What do you all recommend for the PHB? I've seen single adjustable, double adjustable, poly bushings, solid heim joints, and even some that have one of each. It's going to be my daily driver, I won't be doing any track days or going to the drag strip, just spirited road driving on weekends and such. I was thinking the single adj. with poly bushings would be good for my application, but would like your alls personal experiences.
The relocation brackets seem to be debatable, some say yes some say no. As I said I won't be racing, but that doesn't mean I might not get on it from a stoplight, or want to lose what traction I currently have. I'm leaning towards the brackets since I'll already be in there, but if I do get them would I be better off with the bolt-in or weld-in brackets? And will I need new control arms to go with the new brackets?
Lastly, these springs were included with the car, so I'm not sure how much drop I should expect to see? I have 295 18's in the rear, will I need to consider rolling the fenders?
What do you all recommend for the PHB? I've seen single adjustable, double adjustable, poly bushings, solid heim joints, and even some that have one of each. It's going to be my daily driver, I won't be doing any track days or going to the drag strip, just spirited road driving on weekends and such. I was thinking the single adj. with poly bushings would be good for my application, but would like your alls personal experiences.
The relocation brackets seem to be debatable, some say yes some say no. As I said I won't be racing, but that doesn't mean I might not get on it from a stoplight, or want to lose what traction I currently have. I'm leaning towards the brackets since I'll already be in there, but if I do get them would I be better off with the bolt-in or weld-in brackets? And will I need new control arms to go with the new brackets?
Lastly, these springs were included with the car, so I'm not sure how much drop I should expect to see? I have 295 18's in the rear, will I need to consider rolling the fenders?
#2
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PHB, UMI single Adj. w/poly and roto-joint.
I would buy new LCA's before buying the relocation brackets.
IMO, UMI poly/roto-joint LCA's would be a very good choice.
For relocation brackets, I went with the BMR bolt on brackets.
You don't need new LCA's with your brackets, and IMO wait and find out for sure if you really need the brackets.
AFA, rolling the tender lips it depends on your wheel width and offset, are you wheels/tires flush with the fender lips, or are they noticeable tucked in?
Yes consider rolling the fender lips.
I would buy new LCA's before buying the relocation brackets.
IMO, UMI poly/roto-joint LCA's would be a very good choice.
For relocation brackets, I went with the BMR bolt on brackets.
You don't need new LCA's with your brackets, and IMO wait and find out for sure if you really need the brackets.
AFA, rolling the tender lips it depends on your wheel width and offset, are you wheels/tires flush with the fender lips, or are they noticeable tucked in?
Yes consider rolling the fender lips.
#5
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Like was recommended, id go with UMI's Roto/Poly PHR, and if you want to get the LCAs, go the same route, Or something similiar. Im running UMI's Poly/Rod end LCAs, PHR, and tunnel mounted Torque arm, but my car leans more towards a drag setup.
The LCAs arent nesecary, but wouldnt hurt to do while your there anyway. With the reloc brackets, i dont think ive seen too much difference between the weld-in and bolt in. One advantage of the bolt ins though, is that if/when you decide to upgrade to a bigger rear, you can take em off and sell them.
As far as the the adjustability goes on the PHR, its up to you. On a single adjustable, youll have to unbolt one end, drop that end, adjust the length, and bolt it back up to check it.. On a double adjustable (or on-car adjustable) you loosen your jam nuts, adjust to where you need it, and tighten the nuts.. Its much easier, and faster, but if you plan to set it, and forget it, than either will work just fine.
The LCAs arent nesecary, but wouldnt hurt to do while your there anyway. With the reloc brackets, i dont think ive seen too much difference between the weld-in and bolt in. One advantage of the bolt ins though, is that if/when you decide to upgrade to a bigger rear, you can take em off and sell them.
As far as the the adjustability goes on the PHR, its up to you. On a single adjustable, youll have to unbolt one end, drop that end, adjust the length, and bolt it back up to check it.. On a double adjustable (or on-car adjustable) you loosen your jam nuts, adjust to where you need it, and tighten the nuts.. Its much easier, and faster, but if you plan to set it, and forget it, than either will work just fine.
Last edited by NVR_SPDS; 07-11-2010 at 07:07 AM.
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#9
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I actually did some searching and came across a pretty fair price for the PHB from UMI, I think I'm going to pick that up and hold off on the brackets for now. They aren't a total necessity to lower the car.
So with the Strano's, will I need any sort of front camber adjustment or should it stay within spec? How much drop should I expect?
So with the Strano's, will I need any sort of front camber adjustment or should it stay within spec? How much drop should I expect?
#10
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I actually did some searching and came across a pretty fair price for the PHB from UMI, I think I'm going to pick that up and hold off on the brackets for now. They aren't a total necessity to lower the car.
So with the Strano's, will I need any sort of front camber adjustment or should it stay within spec? How much drop should I expect?
So with the Strano's, will I need any sort of front camber adjustment or should it stay within spec? How much drop should I expect?
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