traction issues
traction issues Seems like everytime i go to the track if i footbrake past 1000rpms my car will wheel hop then dead hook. If i stay under 1000rpms it will instantley hook. I keep jumping between 1.9 60's and 2.1 60's. Everything in my suspension is bone stock but with my bolt on lt1 with 3.23 gears and stock stall i feel like i shouldnt be having these problems. I run nt555r drag radials at 18 psi at the track. my best time has been 1.98 60 13.58 1/4 mile looking to cut 1.90 with stock stall in gears. What traction mods should i start with?
If you piece your suspension together in steps you are able to know what items helped and most.
Those items would be the best start, after that a torque arm, SFC's and the correct shocks will all work together well.
If you have any questions regarding our products please ask. Thanks!
Ryan
im guessing upgrading the panhard bar is useless for traction. Also which should i get bolt on or weld in? And are the cheapest you offer lca's good enough for me or should i get adjustable. my car is stock ride height.
Since you are running a decent tire already, you could probably go a long way with just a set of tubular control arms. You wouldn't need adjustables and since your car is stock height you might even be fine without relocation brackets. In this order I would mod your suspension until you get the 60 ft/times you are looking for:
- Non-adjustable lower control arms (with tires, this mod alone should cure your wheelhop and get you the 60 ft. you are looking for)
- Control arm relocation brackets (If the car acts like it wants to hook initially then the tires spin these will move your instant center rearward and help transfer weight better, planting your tires harder)
- Torque Arm (The OE torque arm is like a spring. A shock load will temporarily flex it as the pinion tries to rise then when the load begins to taper off the torque arm springs back to it's original shape. This all happens multiple times within seconds on a typical launch. A flexible torque arm at the drag strip allows your pinion angle to be all over the place. 9 times out of 10 if a set of control arms and relocation brackets don't solve wheelhop, a torque arm will.)
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Bolt in and weld in for your application would be just fine. It would depend whether you have welding capabilities or not? Also the bolt in set up can be welded at any time as well if needed.
I do feel just our basic non-adjustable set for $99 would work fine for you. They feature polyurethane bushings which eliminate bushing deflection and the tubular construction eliminates the flex in the factory control arms.
If I can help anymore please ask. Thank you!
Ryan
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Verdad Gallardo when you guys mention the torque arm should that be adjustable or non adjustable fine? Also should i get boxed or tubular or 3 point sfc. Also what about rear shocks got a part number for a good set? Ill start with the non adjustable lca to see if that helps first, then the brackets.
when you guys mention the torque arm should that be adjustable or non adjustable fine? Also should i get boxed or tubular or 3 point sfc. Also what about rear shocks got a part number for a good set? Ill start with the non adjustable lca to see if that helps first, then the brackets.
For the torque arm, is the car lowered or do you plan on lowering it? How often will it see the track?
For subframe connectors you would be just fine with the 2-point styles we offer, boxed or tubular will both work well with no noticeable differences. The tubular style will tuck up a little better and less noticeable from the side of the car.
For shocks a good set for drag racing is the QA1 adjustable rear shocks seen HERE. You might be able to get away with something less expensive such as a Competition Engineering but this is what we always use for this type of driving.
Hope that helps!
Ryan
