Sub frames
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From: Long Island, New York
Sub frames What's up guys, question for all of you. I have a friend who wants to get Sub frame connectors (SFC's) for his 2000 SS. He wants to buy bolt on's. What do you guys have and or what would you recommand?
Thanks, talk to you soon.
When he gets his computer fixed he will be joining us soon.
Thanks, talk to you soon.
When he gets his computer fixed he will be joining us soon.
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From: MI
I've had the SLP bolt on's on for over 2 years and have never had a bolt come loose or the sfc's move around or make any noise. I don't drive the car every day but when it does come out I'm not easy on the curve's at all and the sfc's have been on for about 25,000 miles, get the bolt on's you'll love em!
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Originally Posted by smokin' joe 00 ss
I've had the SLP bolt on's on for over 2 years and have never had a bolt come loose or the sfc's move around or make any noise. I don't drive the car every day but when it does come out I'm not easy on the curve's at all and the sfc's have been on for about 25,000 miles, get the bolt on's you'll love em!
I have SLP bolt-on's for a long time now and they have given me no problems (no loosening, noise, etc..) and they make a world of difference. They are a bit heavier than the other ones mentioned, but since they are diamond shaped, they are very strong.
Tommy
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Originally Posted by wrencher
Bolt on is better than nothing
If a part doesn't really work, it's just added weight and a waste of money.
With a bolt on part, the bolt holes are a tiny bit larger than the bolt itself. This tiny bit of play is necessary so the bolts will slide through the holes. When tightened, only the friction between the 2 flat surfaces is what keeps the SFCs from moving that tiny amount.
Now, what are you attempting to accomplish with SFCs? ... body flex. So the 2 points you have as connection points are moving against each other during chassis twist, held by only the friction of 90 ft/lbs of torque.
Do you think the forces generated by a hard launch or high G turn will induce chassis flex equal to or greater than 90 ft/lbs.?
Weld the damn things ....
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Verdad Gallardo I thought that was the point I was trying to get across to go with weld-ins?
But people still buy them bolt ins, & it would be better than nothing at all.
It's like telling someone to either go cheap & inferior w/their car or do it the right way.
The reverse psychology method.
Get in there & grind a few gears on 'em.
But people still buy them bolt ins, & it would be better than nothing at all.
It's like telling someone to either go cheap & inferior w/their car or do it the right way.
The reverse psychology method.
Get in there & grind a few gears on 'em. 
Originally Posted by mitchntx
Do you think the forces generated by a hard launch or high G turn will induce chassis flex equal to or greater than 90 ft/lbs.?
Weld the damn things ....
Weld the damn things ....
bolt-in is a waste of money. think about it. you buy bolt-ins for what reason? the only thing i can think of is so you can have them to sell whenever the car is being sold. you get maybe half of what you paid, right? save that half NOW, buy the weld-ins, and save yourself a lot of trouble in the future. my SFC's (brand new) costed - shipping and installation included - $140. can you find bolt-ins that cheap and that hassle free?
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From: MI
[QUOTE=tuffluck]absolutely my thoughts. some of the weld-in's, like the BMR's, have holes for the lca bolts to go through. so essentially they are both weld-in and bolt-in. best of both worlds.
bolt-in is a waste of money.
bolt-in is a waste of money.
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Originally Posted by mitchntx
Do you think the forces generated by a hard launch or high G turn will induce chassis flex equal to or greater than 90 ft/lbs.?
The explanation you stated above is flawed (90 ft/lb theory). Subframe connectors are primarily there to stop twist. The torque spec on the bolts have no directly correlation to how effective the SFCs are. The force on the bolts are complicated, but in my experience they are have never loosened or made a sound.
Anyway, I really don't think anyone is making a mistake by purchasing bolt-in SFCs. They work fantastic for me and other's I know. It's great for those do-it-your-selfers who can't weld.
Good luck in your decision. Either way you will be fine.
Tommy
TaTommyWS6:
I felt the same way as I had SLP bolt-on for 3 years on the car,
Then I had them welded in last fall.
And the difference IS noticeable, over the bolt on.
If you can find a competant welder, get it done, it's EVEN better.
My $.02.
I felt the same way as I had SLP bolt-on for 3 years on the car,
Then I had them welded in last fall.
And the difference IS noticeable, over the bolt on.
If you can find a competant welder, get it done, it's EVEN better.
My $.02.
Originally Posted by wrencher
I thought that was the point I was trying to get across to go with weld-ins?
But people still buy them bolt ins, & it would be better than nothing at all.
It's like telling someone to either go cheap & inferior w/their car or do it the right way.
The reverse psychology method. Get in there & grind a few gears on 'em.
But people still buy them bolt ins, & it would be better than nothing at all.
It's like telling someone to either go cheap & inferior w/their car or do it the right way.
The reverse psychology method.
Get in there & grind a few gears on 'em.I think you ARE better without them, if they are bolt ins.
I understand sheer loading and bolt stretch. The point is if the chassis twists, and you must think it will or why would you buy SFCs in the first place, the 2 mounting points are going to be shifted out of align, in all 3 directions.
As tight as you get that bolt will be the deciding factor on how much force the SFCs can take before moving ... not loosening, moving. The bolts can stay at 90ft/lbs and if 100 ft/lbs of torque is applied, the bearing surfaces are gonna move.
And any welder worth his salt can stitch weld these guys. It's really not rocket science.
Last edited by mitchntx; Feb 2, 2004 at 07:02 AM.
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Originally Posted by mitchntx
And any welder worth his salt can stitch weld these guys. It's really not rocket science.
One simple Example: I bring my 87 vette in for new tires. I must have warned the guys 10 times not to jack from a certain spot because the fiberglass WILL crack. Did they listen, NO! I am waiting outside the garage bay and I hear the most God awful crunching sound as the lift is starting to go, and I hear a guy yell "STOP!!" Morons...
Tommy
That is truly sad.
NY isn't that large of a state, though. There HAS to be a competent welder within a 2 hour radius of where you live.
It is well worth the investment of your time.
NY isn't that large of a state, though. There HAS to be a competent welder within a 2 hour radius of where you live.
It is well worth the investment of your time.
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From: MI
Originally Posted by tuffluck
instead of a cute little smilie, why don't you give me another reason as to why bolt-ons are worth it?