ThaBeaSSt

Well...after doing searches and watching the latest posts, it seems that everyone has their own opinion as to whether a rear swaybar helps out at the track or not. Anyhow, I was in the garage just brainstorming and I came up with something...if I was to stiffen up the Hal shock in the rear thats squats down more than the other one, maybe a 1 or 2 more clicks, would it help to straighten it out? I never thought about it until the other day. I know Ive come across the suggestion of using an airbag, but I really didnt want to go that route. I actually want to use a nice rear swaybar set up, but I just wanted to throw the shock option out there and see what you all thought about it? Let me know, thanks.

Cheatin' Chad

iTrader: (3)

Increasing the compression on the passenger side should help somewhat. In my opinion the greatest gains would come from and airbag and/or more effective rear anti-sway bar.

ThaBeaSSt

At first, when I just thought of the idea, I thought that I was the only one to think of that, but then when I thought about it some more, I realized that I probably wasnt the only one. I dont think that Im going to install an airbag, but a beefier rear swaybar is a possibility. As I was doing some searches, I ran into the idea several times. The BMR Extreme is the one that everyone seems to recommend...I also ran into Spohn's extreme swaybar and I was wondering how it compares?

newbie_tace02

When you punch it, the stock torque arm and sway bar will flex. And if you've done any improvements to the motor resulting in more power at the flywheel, they will flex even more. Bottom line is the flex twists your car along the axis of the drivetrain, causing one rear wheel to dig, and the other to lift and hop (the front of the car will twist in the opposite direction).

You cure it with a strong torque arm, and a strong sway bar.

If you're also hopping one wheel while this is all happening. You also need a stronger set of LCA's and relocation brackets (required if car has been lowered).

I'd recommend the BMR's or something similar. Huge difference.

tuff

iTrader: (15)

I'm going with a spohn rear anti roll bar since i have some other products of theres. Being a new product ill just have to take my chance. But i'm sure it will be fine.By the way the big brown truck should be here any day with my anti roll bar.

Old SStroker

A solid rear axle unloads the right rear tire because of torque reaction from the driveline torque going thru the rear end. The easiest and most adjustable fix is the airbag on the right side. As you add air you are jacking static weight onto the right rear and left front from the other tires. That's where you are headed for a straight launch. The stickier the tires and the more axle torque (trans ratio x axle ratio x engine torque), the worse it is. Stock tires limit the torque you can put down. If you have DRs or slicks, the problem gets worse.

As far as a rear anti-roll bar (sway bar), it works when the body rolls. Depending on how much the left front lifts, a stiffer rear bar may help, or not. Flexing of the suspension bits isn't the big problem either; it's axle torque that unloads the tire. You may or may not be helped by stiffer parts. They don't address the basic problem, just the side effects.

Your shock idea is interesting, Beast. Shocks only provide force when they are moving, so a stifffer right might help just a little when you launch, but since there is some anti-squat in the suspension, there isn't much compression of the rear, and as soon as it stops moving, the shock isn't helping. If you add the air bag, you might also work with that shock. If you get any wheel hop, the shock adjustment might help. Oh yeah, many adjustable shocks are only adjustable in rebound, or both compression and rebound are adjusted at the same time with rebound getting the most.

Last point: the air bag is probably the least expensive fix also.

My $.02