Eliminating ABS Brake Module. Anyone done this?
08-24-2010, 02:37 PM
#21
Ok I bought all the fittings that I feel I am going to need. They cost me 24 bucks. I am gonna try to use as much of the factory line as I can without making it look horrible. I wont do it if it looks bad I promise. I have to admit though finding metric fittings isn't a snap so I figured since I would be cutting and re flareing the brake lines anyhow I bought standard american sized fittings instead. I don't understand why autozone or places around here don't carry more metric stuff. Most cars from mid 80 and up are pretty much all metric even if the motors aren't. IDK. Ill take some pics and keep everyone updated.
08-24-2010, 02:39 PM
#22
Another quick question. Which of the two lines coming from the master go to the front brakes and which goes to the rear. I think the one on the rear of the master cylinder is for the front because of the dual stage braking but I cannot remember.
08-24-2010, 03:22 PM
#23
Purchased a chrome adjustable proportioning valve with 1/8th in npt fittings that has a pressure rating of 100 to 1000psi with a 57% reduction rating. $33.85 off ebay. Not going to be adjusting this a lot once it is set where I am comfortable with it then it will stay there so I opted not to buy anything fancy. Still think I could have went without but you guys talked me out of it. You guys could be life savers.!!! LOL.
08-25-2010, 06:38 AM
#26
Purchased a chrome adjustable proportioning valve with 1/8th in npt fittings that has a pressure rating of 100 to 1000psi with a 57% reduction rating. $33.85 off ebay. Not going to be adjusting this a lot once it is set where I am comfortable with it then it will stay there so I opted not to buy anything fancy. Still think I could have went without but you guys talked me out of it. You guys could be life savers.!!! LOL.
But we are discussing brakes ... the things that you use to stop the near two tons of mass you, your family and/or your friends are riding in.
Saving $10 over a Longacre bias valve wasn't much of a premium.
A failure is a total breach of the brake system ... pedal goes to the floor and you ain't slowing down.
I'm not hating, just saying ...
08-25-2010, 09:15 AM
#27
I understand trying to save a few dollars. I'm as "frugal" as anyone ...
But we are discussing brakes ... the things that you use to stop the near two tons of mass you, your family and/or your friends are riding in.
Saving $10 over a Longacre bias valve wasn't much of a premium.
A failure is a total breach of the brake system ... pedal goes to the floor and you ain't slowing down.
I'm not hating, just saying ...
But we are discussing brakes ... the things that you use to stop the near two tons of mass you, your family and/or your friends are riding in.
Saving $10 over a Longacre bias valve wasn't much of a premium.
A failure is a total breach of the brake system ... pedal goes to the floor and you ain't slowing down.
I'm not hating, just saying ...
08-25-2010, 10:13 AM
#28
9 Second Club
iTrader: (26)
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: homeless
Posts: 1,833
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm not doing it. I can put that money somewhere else in my car. I daily drive my car in the nice weather on the street.
Last edited by 02sleeperz28; 08-25-2010 at 10:33 AM.
08-25-2010, 10:30 AM
#29
Maybe for a pump or two.
Don't take it the wrong way. Time after time after time I see folks skimping of safety related gear and maxing out credit cards getting the very best of something to make the car go faster.
Maybe I'm no longer invincible like I was when I was 30.
08-25-2010, 10:49 AM
#30
Staging Lane
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Elizabthown Ky
Posts: 98
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Lines on the car are metric. 98+ F-Cars have two different sizes on the MC.
I have yet to find a metric threaded prop valve. So finding the proper flared adaptor can be tedious.
The last ABS delete we did on a road race car was using the Burkhart Chassis rig. We took the rear line between the MC and machined block, cut it in two pieces, installed standard threaded tube nuts and reflared the lines, then installed the prop valve.
We even intalled a remote adjuster so that the underhood prop valve could be adjusted on the fly.
Very neat and very clean install. Looked factory, almost.
I have yet to find a metric threaded prop valve. So finding the proper flared adaptor can be tedious.
The last ABS delete we did on a road race car was using the Burkhart Chassis rig. We took the rear line between the MC and machined block, cut it in two pieces, installed standard threaded tube nuts and reflared the lines, then installed the prop valve.
We even intalled a remote adjuster so that the underhood prop valve could be adjusted on the fly.
Very neat and very clean install. Looked factory, almost.
08-25-2010, 11:21 AM
#31
Like stated before, it's my understanding that part of the ABS module's function is to act like a rear bias valve.
The Burkhart piece is a CNC machined piece that replaces the ABS fluid routing only, not it's function. It uses all the factory lines, and brackets. It's a direct bolt in ... less the prop valve.
The Burkhart piece is a CNC machined piece that replaces the ABS fluid routing only, not it's function. It uses all the factory lines, and brackets. It's a direct bolt in ... less the prop valve.
08-26-2010, 07:58 AM
#33
Staging Lane
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Elizabthown Ky
Posts: 98
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Like stated before, it's my understanding that part of the ABS module's function is to act like a rear bias valve.
The Burkhart piece is a CNC machined piece that replaces the ABS fluid routing only, not it's function. It uses all the factory lines, and brackets. It's a direct bolt in ... less the prop valve.
The Burkhart piece is a CNC machined piece that replaces the ABS fluid routing only, not it's function. It uses all the factory lines, and brackets. It's a direct bolt in ... less the prop valve.
11-07-2010, 11:40 PM
#35
great thread. i installed a mwc 9 with abs delete....kind of knew i needed a proportioning valve...but now i KNOW! rears locked up on me, spun a 720....didnt wreck...but still pretty scary stuff.
so how does a guy go about knowing how these are setup? i mean, i dont have an area where i can go rod the brakes and know its how i want it....idk.
so how does a guy go about knowing how these are setup? i mean, i dont have an area where i can go rod the brakes and know its how i want it....idk.
