caster camber and toe
caster camber and toe Changed out some suspension pieces on my dd 94 z (global west front uppers w/del-alum inserts, koni SAs not on lwr perch, stranos front and rear, new upper mounts w/new dogbones, new lower perch doughnuts, previous parts installedon rear koni on-car SAs , adj panhard, adj torque arm w/ relocation mount, and rear adj lower control arms) now when the alignment was done I've got caster left is at 6.57 final initially was 6.47 and caster right 6.35 final initial was 5.72, toe intial was negative .26 left and negative .43 right final was .04 left and .06 right, camber initial left @ -1.96 initial right@ -1.69 final is both sides @ -0.95. My worry is with caster specs ..are my numbers a little extreme ? Caster specs say Min. 3.40 with Max. 5.40 ....
I would not worry about the right side being a little high but I would lower the left to the point where the left side is about .50 less han the right( on some roads it may pull a little to right, should not be a wear problem). The high caser will help high speed staybity but may be a little had on the steering componance, if you are going to lower left may as well lower both to within specs
The more caster that you have the better the car will handle at speeds.
I just aligned mine saturday
LF RF
Chamber -.5 Chamber -.6
Caster 6.3 Caster 6.7
Toe .03 Toe .02
Thurst angle .006
Toe was set using Win Toe
I like having it set there she drive straight as a arrow. And still to this day have not chewed a set of tires yet for having that chamber settings.
I just aligned mine saturday
LF RF
Chamber -.5 Chamber -.6
Caster 6.3 Caster 6.7
Toe .03 Toe .02
Thurst angle .006
Toe was set using Win Toe
I like having it set there she drive straight as a arrow. And still to this day have not chewed a set of tires yet for having that chamber settings.
I would not worry about the right side being a little high but I would lower the left to the point where the left side is about .50* less than the right (on some roads it may pull a little to right, should not be a wear problem). The high caser will help high speed stability but may be a little had on the steering components, if you are going to lower left may as well lower both to within specs
I run 5.5* pass side; 5* drivers side, on my car...
Launching!
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 283
Likes: 0
From: N. Va
a good street/circuit/drag castor (from my research) is +4.5. The more + castor the more she'll go straight at higher speeds, but she won't turn as easily. Picture a chopper vs a crotchrocket. The chopper doesn't turn easily but cruises well....the crotchrocket wants to take turns...this is relative to the rake of the downtubes. Picture castor as the downtubes of the bike.
Obviously you're fine for now, but my worry about being out of castor spec is the strain that it's putting on all other factors of your alignment. Point being, I'm wondering if you continue driving with a ~+6.5 castor will it throw your toe off easier. You know...one big pot hole and your toe alignment is shot as opposed to being if your castor was within spec, then everything would be more forgiving of harsh jolts on your suspension.
I'm looking for some people with some knowledge on this as I'm still learning about all this myself.
Obviously you're fine for now, but my worry about being out of castor spec is the strain that it's putting on all other factors of your alignment. Point being, I'm wondering if you continue driving with a ~+6.5 castor will it throw your toe off easier. You know...one big pot hole and your toe alignment is shot as opposed to being if your castor was within spec, then everything would be more forgiving of harsh jolts on your suspension.
I'm looking for some people with some knowledge on this as I'm still learning about all this myself.
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a good street/circuit/drag castor (from my research) is +4.5. The more + castor the more she'll go straight at higher speeds, but she won't turn as easily. Picture a chopper vs a crotchrocket. The chopper doesn't turn easily but cruises well....the crotchrocket wants to take turns...this is relative to the rake of the downtubes. Picture castor as the downtubes of the bike.
Obviously you're fine for now, but my worry about being out of castor spec is the strain that it's putting on all other factors of your alignment. Point being, I'm wondering if you continue driving with a ~+6.5 castor will it throw your toe off easier. You know...one big pot hole and your toe alignment is shot as opposed to being if your castor was within spec, then everything would be more forgiving of harsh jolts on your suspension.
I'm looking for some people with some knowledge on this as I'm still learning about all this myself.
Obviously you're fine for now, but my worry about being out of castor spec is the strain that it's putting on all other factors of your alignment. Point being, I'm wondering if you continue driving with a ~+6.5 castor will it throw your toe off easier. You know...one big pot hole and your toe alignment is shot as opposed to being if your castor was within spec, then everything would be more forgiving of harsh jolts on your suspension.
I'm looking for some people with some knowledge on this as I'm still learning about all this myself.
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Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 283
Likes: 0
From: N. Va
yeah sure for initial driving...but I'm wondering if having the castor that much out of spec creates more stress on the lower control arm and k-member to the point where your alignment will be out of wack much quicker than if the castor was within spec.
If you didn't have to worry about the alignment shifting on ya, then I'm all with ya being fine....I'm just wondering what the affects of castor being out of spec are.
If you didn't have to worry about the alignment shifting on ya, then I'm all with ya being fine....I'm just wondering what the affects of castor being out of spec are.
Up to 6.5 degrees of positive caster is fine but we don't typically recommend any more than that, in fact it's difficult to get more. I would be more concerned with making your caster equal on both sides.
You're lucky you can get that much caster. As the song went... don't worry be happy. And I don't worry about a bit of a mis-match on caster unless you have a pull to the right. Then I'd just try and knock the left side down (because you already have way more than most can get and doubt you can get more on the right front).
I like caster, most really sporty cars have a lot. Corvettes, M3's and new Mustangs all have around 7 degrees +, so I certainly wouldn't be bothered by what you have, and only wish my car could get near what yours has (I have like 4.5).
I like caster, most really sporty cars have a lot. Corvettes, M3's and new Mustangs all have around 7 degrees +, so I certainly wouldn't be bothered by what you have, and only wish my car could get near what yours has (I have like 4.5).
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Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
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www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
You're lucky you can get that much caster. As the song went... don't worry be happy. And I don't worry about a bit of a mis-match on caster unless you have a pull to the right. Then I'd just try and knock the left side down (because you already have way more than most can get and doubt you can get more on the right front).
I like caster, most really sporty cars have a lot. Corvettes, M3's and new Mustangs all have around 7 degrees +, so I certainly wouldn't be bothered by what you have, and only wish my car could get near what yours has (I have like 4.5).
I like caster, most really sporty cars have a lot. Corvettes, M3's and new Mustangs all have around 7 degrees +, so I certainly wouldn't be bothered by what you have, and only wish my car could get near what yours has (I have like 4.5).
Well there you go... and that also means you should be able to lose some if you wish, or square the sides up.
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www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
Camber is way more critical than caster. Caster will gain you some negative camber on the outside wheel when turning, but also at the loss of some on the inside and the caster jacks weight around the car. For autox use, you max the camber first. Caster is one of those things that some want lots of, some don't. I like something about 4.5-5 if I can get it, more just makes the car less nimble in the transitions.
__________________
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
